Hilt Design and Basic Idea Work

[InverseKnight]

Hello all, I'd like to share my original design and what I managed to mimic in the MHS Builder; I'm hoping to get some pointers on how to stay more true to actual design and how to match it more and what I'd have to do to make that possible. As for the details on the wiring and what have you; I'm still reading up on all that. The basic design of the saber I have, just not sure how to replicate it. Any constructive feedback and help is appreciated.
http://tinypic.com/r/1z167nk/6 : The Original Design
SaberBuilder_render.jpg : My Attempted Replication

[Evilpancreas]

That hilt is going to be REALLY long. Just keep that in mind.

[InverseKnight]

That's kind of the point, my friend. When designing it, I told the artist "About fourteen inches in length". He did good. I've got big hands and I like having room on my sword for leverage and grip.

[Braxus]

I'd go this route...

http://img805.imageshack.us/img805/9...ceptsaber1.png


I used:

1 - LED Blade Holder Style 5
1 - Ribbed / Choke Combo
2 - Trim ring 3
1 - Activation Box Style 4
1 - 3 inch Double Female Threaded Connector w/ custom grove work and Box 4 Mounting Hole Service
1 - Double ended Male Threaded Connector
1 - 4 inch Deep fluted Double Female Threaded Connector w/ custom powder coating
1 - MPS Pummel 4

Total Length = 14.25 Inches



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Box style 4 and the Trim Rings help realize the original concept the best i think, but you have to use a 3in double female... anything smaller and Tim cant do the screw hole service for it. The Deep fluted double Female section with the custom black powder coating also does justice to the concept picture.

All in all i think its a nice saber, about 3 inches too long for my taste, but to each his own.

[InverseKnight]

Jedi Braxus, that's a Hell of a lot better than what I came up with. Thank you. Thanks for the technical information, as well. I'm new to this, as I've mentioned. I wish I hadn't had the artist draw it so damn good, because I don't entirely believe we'll be able to a perfect transition with what we have available. With those grips, would it be easier to use a D-Ring, instead of a covertech like in the concept? I also wish there were more grooves on the top, but I think I can work with this. The box you changed also looks like it'll be more comfortable in my hand.

Haha, I know the sword is a bit long in most perspectives, but I prefer mine like that. I'm tall and I need a longer sword to properly defend myself. Katana-Length to Nodachi-Length. I'm more knowledgeable in Kenjutsu, but I'm trying to learn the Longsword style. But, thank you for the compliments. The artist did a wonderful job, even better than my original designs.

Now, the only lingering issue I have is how to achieve the proper color. I've mentioned I hang around on UltraSabers and that's what my first two blades were. They did manage to master a yellow/gold LED and I don't see one here. Furthermore, would my spare UltraSaber blades be compilable with the emitters on these? I'm fairly positive the US are MHS compatible. Getting a silver LED would probably be the best bet from the selection on TCSS; you still sell the little disks, right?

[Braxus]

i added accent LEDs

http://img805.imageshack.us/img805/9...ceptsaber1.png


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Id go Covertec all the way, I hate D-rings personally. Tim can drill the hole for the covertec clip pretty much on any extention, i wouldnt worry about it fitting on this fluted section.

[InverseKnight]

Hmm, alright. That's good to know. What's this going to cost me? Just the blade hilt and the covertech, not counting the blade.

[Braxus]

PARTS-
1 - LED Blade Holder Style 5 = 27.00
1 - Ribbed / Choke Combo = 38.25
2 - Trim ring 3 = 7.50x2= 15.00
1 - Activation Box Style 4 = 31.50
1 - 3 inch Double Female Threaded Connector = 10.50
1 - Double ended Male Threaded Connector = 6.75
1 - 4 inch Deep fluted Double Female Threaded Connector = 24.75
1 - MPS Pummel 4 = 6.75
1 - MPS Insert 1 = 5.25
1 - MPS Clip = 0.75
1 - Covertec Clip = 2.75



SERVICES-
Box Hole = 15.00
Blade holder Retention Screw Hole = 7.50
Covertec Screw Hole = 7.50
Ribbed / Choke Combo Powder coating = 17.50
Fluted Double Female Powder Coating = 17.50 (guessing)
3inch Double Female custom Grove work = 20.00 (guessing)

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PARTS TOTAL: $169.25
SERVICES TOTAL: $85.00

GRAND TOTAL = $254.25






Now, that doesnt include the blade, soundcard, battery, speaker, wires, LED for blade, activation button, Accent LEDs or their holes.

Yeah, this is an expensive hobby. lol

[InverseKnight]

I'm fully aware it can be expensive; it just means I have to wait a little bit is all. My health took a sharp turn for the worst and I've got some bills piling up. When I get back to work I'll be able to take care of that and then get my sword.

Now then, $260 for the hilt itself is a lot less than I had feared. So I'm happy with that. The wiring and insides is what I'm truly afraid of, though. A good friend of mine was having serious trouble with it a while back, but I can tell there are a number of guides. Luckily, I have friends who are good with this stuff. Not too worried.

Starting on that stuff, piece by piece...

Blade: I have a spare. I'm pretty sure this site and my other use the same basic stuff, but I'm also convinced they don't like the competition.
Soundcard: Those are always freaking expensive.
Battery: I think I saw the Lithium Ion batteries on the forum, so they should be in the shop. Those are the best available, right?
Speaker: Not a damn clue here. I'll have to read up on it.
Wires: Hahahaha, I'm going to cry.
LED: Care to recommend me one? I intend to use the disks on a silver LED to make a proper Golden blade. I just don't know which is the best.
Activation Button: Isn't that part of the Activation box? Apparently not. I'll go look that up now.
Accent LEDs: I have no idea on this. Care to link/explain?

Expensive and complicated? Yes. Fulfilling? Hell yes.

[Braxus]

I've made many sabers and ive used a few different setups for some. You need to decide what type of setup you want... its kinda like a tree, you pick one thing and then you have a set up options that branch off of that choice and so on.




SOUND CARD-

So, first thing you need to decide is what type of sound card you want to use. There a few different options here, some expensive, some not so expensive, some cheap.

1: Crystal Focus Saber Core - This is made by Erv Plector at Plector labs and is by far the best soundcard, however its also the most expensive... around $160 if you get it straight from him, more if you buy off a third party. He only makes a limited number of these cards a year and they are VERY hard to come by. If you use this sound card, you need two switches/buttons to operate this saber.

2: Petit Crouton Sound Module V2.0 - This is made by a collaboration of Erv at Plector Labs, The custom Saber Shop, and a few of the Master Saber Smiths here. It has alot of the same features as the Crystal Focus Board, but not all of them. Youll need to do your research. This is sold here at the Custom Saber Shop for $130. Like the Crystal Focus Board, youll need two switches/buttons to operate the saber.

3: Novasound 3.0 - Offered by the folks at Saberforge. I dont know much about this one, but its price is on par with the Petite Crouton one offered here at TCSS, at $125.

4: Novasound Neutrino - Low level version of the Novasound from above. Again I dont know much other then it exists and it sells for about $60.

5: Master Replica/Hasbro Soundcard - This sound card is cannibalized from the awesome saber props first made by Master Replicas and now by Hasbro. These sabers are the ones you see at Sharper Image. Price varies, but you can snag one for like $50 on Ebay. You just need a single switch/button for this one.

6: Hasbro/Plastic Saber Toy Board - These boards are canniblized from the cheapo plastic toys from Toys-R-Us, Target, Walmart, ect. They are very cheap and pretty easy to wire up. You can get one straight from the toy for $20. This one also uses a single button/switch to operate the saber. Its pretty basic, but if your on a budget, it works like a charm.



NOTES: My favorite is the Petite Crouton. Its advanced anough to come with all the bells and whistles I require, but cheap enough not to bankrupt me. Plus its sold by the awesome folks here at TCSS and I always prefer to give my business to them.

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Now, after you pick the sound card you want to pick your battery options.

You can go with straightup batteries like AA and AAA, rechargables ones, Lithium Ion rechargable ones, or NiMH rechargable ones. Each has their own pluses and minuses.


If you go basic AA or AAA batteries, you can get a cheap battery holder/speaker combo. these are the simplest to install and you can just unscrew the pummel and replace the batteries as needed. Also, you dont nessesarily have to install a recharge port (unless your using the Petite Crouton or Crystal focus sound boards. Those sound boards need a cutoff switch and the recharge port can act as a very basic one).

Li-Ion ones can be small and pack allot of power... but they can be very dangerous if you dont know how to properly handle them. Youll need to buy a seperate speaker and speaker holder from TCSS if you go this route.

NiHM Batteries are the basic Rechargeable batteries you buy. they are pretty safe and depending on what you want to do... you can use the AA or AAA Battery Holder/speaker Combo (but DO NOT recharge the batteries in the Holder. It'll melt) or you can buy a battery pack. They are the same size as AA or AAA batteries so the premade packs are safe to recharge while in the hilt but are bulky and take up allot of space.


NOTES: If you go rechargeable and want the batteries to never leave the hilt, youll need to install a recharge port. That means youll need to order the hole drilling service from TCSS when you order the Hilt parts.


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ADD-ONS

Accent LEDs-
These are small little LED lights that can be fitted on the side of a saber. Think Anakin's saber from Attack of the Clones. The original concept drawing for your saber has an accent LED on the side and my updated MHS Saber Builder image i gave you has two... one Red and one Green. This is just bling to make your saber look cooler. The soundcard you use may or may not support Accent LEDs, so youll need to make sure before you buy. If you want them on your saber, youll need to order the Hole Drilling Service from TCSS when you buy the hilt parts.

Recharge Port -
This is absoluted required if you want to recharge your batteries while they are inside your hilt. But, if you go this route, youll also need to buy the approprate battery charger... more money, but worth it if you like this type of add-on. Also, youll need to wire it so that when the plug is inserted into the port, it cuts off all power to the soundboard. If you dont do this, youll burnout the board faster then the Mellennium Falcon can do the Kessel Run.

Blade LED-
This is required if you want to light up your saber. There are allot of different opinions on which ones are the best for what color, but i tend to go ith a simple P4 LED for all my color options. You said you want a Gold/Yellow blade... there isnt an LED that is offered in that color, but you can get a white LED and a yellow Color disk (keep in mind using these color disks will make your blade not as bright... all personal preference). However, I like P4s and they are offered here at TCSS.

Activation button/Switch-
There are allot of choices here. If you use Activation Box 4, youll need to get an Anti-vandal styled switch. They are offered plain silver, gold, black w/ multi colored LED in center. Black with Multi colored LED ring, ext. lots of choices. they are offered in both momentary and latching... this depends on the soundboard you choose.

Blade-
As long as its made of policarbonate, it should stand up to dueling. Id go thickwalled and make sure its 1inch diameter... if not it wont fit the blade holder. The differences between all the different site's blades are the diffuser film used in the blade. The film is what makes the blade color show up. Different diffuser films make the blade effect look different... again all personal preference. I love the TCSS-film Battle blade. thats just me.