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Thread: G.O.T.H. 1st Saber - Red Shadow (starting)

  1. #1

    Cool Darth Ryō's Red Shadow (1st double-bladed saber w/ Igniter)

    Hey saber fans and geeks alike!

    So here is my 1st build thread .
    This particular post will be reserved to present the final product, with part details etc. i'll use the next posts as logs and questions.

    ------------------------------------

    I plan to build a short doubled bladed staff, since I like playing a Sith Inquisitors in SWTOR.
    Of course I'm not capable at all to reproduce one of the great SWTOR sabers design. But I'll do something that I'd like for myself, using only MHS parts with slight custom works by Time (like venting the chokes). Personnal touch will be the shroud really (we'll see if I can do it well).

    Its name is Red Shadow, suitable for a shadow killer.

    Specs:

    Igniter(tm) R2 w/Tru Color(tm)
    2 x 18650 bateries (custom pack with 7.4v PCB)
    2 x Led Engine RGBA
    2 x 7/8" Clear SaberBlade(tm)
    TCSS MHS parts :
    2 x Ribbed Extension, 4" extension, 2 x Choke with custom mill, and 2 x Blade Holder.
    2 x TCSS premium speaker
    2 x red accent leds
    Activation Box 2 + Recharge Port, AV switch red and aux switch
    Black matte powder coating
    Custom Shroud (will make it myself)


    Thanks a lot to all the people who helped, and special thanks to Tim of TCSS for this amazing shop and for making it possible.

    ------------------------------------

    (for pics)
    Last edited by Darth Ryo; 08-13-2012 at 10:33 AM.
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  2. #2

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    I've not much to show for now, except how I plan to do it.
    For now I'm not able to render the shroud design, even if I have a clear idea how i'd like it, I'm to noob at rendering software to draw that (will try some hand drawing soon).

    Here is the first blueprint using MHS builder over TCSS :


    I also put an inside view of the hilt where I started to put the 2 18650 batteries, and Igniter(tm) with TruColor(tm).
    - I planned to use a PLI (the blue box in the drawing), but it won't be back in stock, so I have to give up that part...
    - The activation box would be style 2.
    - The 2 speakers will be oriented toward the emiters, with vents in the chokes to let the sound come out.
    - The black powder coating will be matte tuscon as shown in the picture.
    - I plan to use red thumb screws for the blade holder.
    I guess that's all the details regarding MHS parts.

    And here is the internal wiring :


    So the PLI is no longer an option (But I left it there as reminder), but the rest should be ok.
    Feel free to comment, point errors or else

    Hope you'll enjoy following this build as much as I do making it
    Last edited by Darth Ryo; 08-12-2012 at 06:10 AM.
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  3. #3

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    Can't wait! looking at your parts list i want to trade bank accounts. lol. which igniter board are you going to use, from what i understand there about to release v2.
    "A foolish man fights a fight he'll lose, and lose foolishly".

  4. #4

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    My part list is almost complete, will post it here tomorrow... bank account will be dealt a serious blow indeed lol.
    Regarding Igniter, R2 has been release in May if I remember correctly, and R3 should be released by fall this year.
    I'll be using R2 for this saber btw
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  5. #5

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    Looks kind of like the one I wanted to do, but I only had enough money for half of a saberstaff. (so, until I can afford to spend more, I only have a lightsaber, lol)

    Can the Igniter handle what you're doing there though? Driving two LEDEngin like that? Seems dicey to me but then I don't know that board's specs...
    The lightsaber hilt is capable of producing a blade of pure energy. The lightsaber hilt has proven to be completely safe. The saber blade however has not. Do not touch the operational end of the saber blade. Do not look directly at the operational end of the saber blade. Do not immerse the saber blade into your flesh, not even partially.

  6. #6

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    My original plan was to build two identical sabers to combine them as a staff (like the Maul I already own), but as there is no MHS couplers that detach easily (and I'm not able to build one), I thought I would build this short staff first to save a bit money (since I'll use only one sound card) for another saber later.
    Even so, it blows my budget all the same lol... but hopefully worth it.

    Can the board handle 2 high powered LEDs? mmm that's what I'll find out, hoping I won't fry anything lol

    Seriously tho, yes it can (as long as a pack of 18650 batteries and the proper diodes are involved).
    I'd be the first to test that configuration it seems ::finger crossed:: (I especially wanna see how long the batteries will last).
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  7. #7

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    What's the shroud going to look like? I'm excited to see where you're going with that

  8. #8

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    Me too actually hehe, as soon as I have sorted my part list and ordered them, I'll work on rendering what I thought about the shroud.

    For now I have to deal with some space issue as I won't be able to fit the speakers in the ribbed extension as i wanted : not enough room left for the wires from the LedEngine
    Will try to find a proper extension for that.
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  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Ryō View Post
    Me too actually hehe, as soon as I have sorted my part list and ordered them, I'll work on rendering what I thought about the shroud.

    For now I have to deal with some space issue as I won't be able to fit the speakers in the ribbed extension as i wanted : not enough room left for the wires from the LedEngine
    Will try to find a proper extension for that.
    You could carve some grooves on the inside of the ribbed extension but don't do it under the grooves themselves as that would undermine them...

    Been looking at Igniters stats though and it's a 2A driver and it really doesn't seem to me that you have enough power here.... Let's say each of the dice on the LEDEngin are 700-1000mA each.

    Your wiring schematic has them all wired in parallel which means they have to share current - if you're driving each die at the same all at the same current then they each get 333.33 mA. (6 dice total sharing 2A)

    Not sure really what the best solution for you is though... ideal one would be 2 sets of batteries powering 2 boards. (they'd probably have to be 14500s side by side with the boards mounted over them - or maybe 18500s in stick configuration)

    Big edit: Snipped a bunch.... I'm disregarding here what your exact color might be that you're going for; if you're only mixing a couple of colors then maybe it's not as big a deal as I'm making out; maybe you can ignore the above. Depends on how much current you're wanting to throw at each LED die. (like if you were doing purple, each blue getting 700mA for a total of 1.4A, leaving you with 300mA for each red...)
    Last edited by Kevin Starwaster; 08-10-2012 at 08:15 PM.
    The lightsaber hilt is capable of producing a blade of pure energy. The lightsaber hilt has proven to be completely safe. The saber blade however has not. Do not touch the operational end of the saber blade. Do not look directly at the operational end of the saber blade. Do not immerse the saber blade into your flesh, not even partially.

  10. #10

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    I don't know so much to be able to reply with certainty, but I would say the 2A is per die, not for the whole LEDEngine, otherwise, the board wouldn't even be able to handle one LEDEngine (4 die for a total of 4A).
    So it is capable of taking 2 LEDEngine in parallel like I put in the schematic, the main question will be the batterie :
    - 1st be carreful not to drain over the 7A limit of the protection circuit, if I ever choose to use the remaining White or Amber dies for additional FOC (combining RGB FOC with the 4th die).
    - 2nd see how long the 18650 will last in that configuration.
    But both these points will be indeed manageable by applying the proper settings.

    Btw, regarding the space issue, I already have a specific idea about the PVC chassis, which will not allow me to grooves or madify anything on the ribbed extension.
    Instead, I've changed the design a bit (extending the staff of 1") :


    I've moved the speakers to the middle section (in yellow), now 5" instead of 4", (still oriented toward the emitter).

    The things I don't know here is : will the activation buttons and recharge port (on activation box 2) leave enough room in the hilt for the rest (boards and PCB)?
    Last edited by Darth Ryo; 08-12-2012 at 06:28 AM.
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