My first saber

**ThePhaden** · 08-09-2012, 06:02 AM

Originally Posted by Silver Serpent

Ok, you can actually remove the c-clip. Pommel 3 is one of 3 pommels that don't take inserts (the other two are threaded for switches). The c-clip is one of the most commonly forgotten items for new builders, so it's one of the first things we look for in shopping lists. Unfortunately, pommel3 is a very popular pommel for new builders as well, and we don't always remember that it doesn't take an insert.

I didn't see anything wrong with your original blade supplies. You'd just need to assemble it yourself. Many of us do that, just don't use superglue with the clear blades. I've heard good things about Gorilla Glue, but Weld-on #3 or Weld-on #16 are ideal if you can get some. (So is chloroform, but you get funny looks when you try to buy it for personal use). Additionally, shipping is quicker if you build your own blades, as you don't have to wait for Tim to assemble them for you.

Good luck with your build! It's definitely gonna be long. The good news is that if you don't like the length, you can always remove some sections to make it shorter.

when you assemble you own... are you simply talking about glue the head on the blade?

**ThePhaden** · 08-09-2012, 06:06 AM

Originally Posted by ThePhaden

when you assemble you own... are you simply talking about glue the head on the blade?

Ok so I went back to my first blade. this will be a cut of 38 inches and with out the bullet head already on it. meaning I will have to glue it in there myself... correct?

here is my updated basket, also took out the ring I didnt think I needed one to begin with.

MHSchoker MHS choke style 3

POM3 Pommel style 3

Sledholder23 Screw on LED blade holder style 23

JSTCon JST connectors

switch11 SPST Latching Guarded switch with red button

Shilt1G Hilt style 1 with guarded style switch hole

10-32red 10-32 x 3/8" Red Acetal thumb screw

10-32tap 10-32 Tap & drill set

RSLM Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module
•Luxeon Rebel Star (Red)

MHSChokeLBlank MHS Extension Blank Style 2

4AAJST 4AA Battery Holder with JST connector

Buck700N BuckPuck 700mA 4-wire

1PCTWThick 1" Thick walled Trans White PolyC 40" long (38 inches +$0.50)

1thickbullet Bullet shaped tip for 1" thick walled blades

**Silver Serpent** · 08-09-2012, 06:06 AM

Correct. If you want to add film (usually clear gift wrap) inside the blade, there's an excellent tutorial here: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...t-how-I-do-it)

The trans-white blades look decent without film, though you can certainly add film to help even out the blade. Clear blades almost always need film added to improve their appearance.

I'd probably get the full 40" blade and cut it to length with a hacksaw. You never know when you might need a spare couple inches of blade material for blade plugs or whatnot. If you do that, be careful not to get plastic dust inside the blade. It shows up when you light the saber.

**ThePhaden** · 08-09-2012, 06:39 AM

Originally Posted by Silver Serpent

Correct. If you want to add film (usually clear gift wrap) inside the blade, there's an excellent tutorial here: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...t-how-I-do-it)

The trans-white blades look decent without film, though you can certainly add film to help even out the blade. Clear blades almost always need film added to improve their appearance.

I'd probably get the full 40" blade and cut it to length with a hacksaw. You never know when you might need a spare couple inches of blade material for blade plugs or whatnot. If you do that, be careful not to get plastic dust inside the blade. It shows up when you light the saber.

Thanks man, Ive been waiting for you to comment on my stuff lol I will order this now. How long will my order take you think? nothing is getting cut. Im going to just get the full 40inch blade

**Silver Serpent** · 08-09-2012, 06:59 AM

I've received orders in as little as 3 days, but I normally plan for waiting about a week if there's no custom work. If there's powdercoating, drill and tap work, blade assembly, etc., then it can be two or more weeks before you get your order.

When cutting your blade, put a bit of rag or paper towel in there to block any cutting particles from sneaking in the blade. It's also far easier to clean the inside of the blade BEFORE you glue on the tip. Trust me, I know from experience.

**ThePhaden** · 08-09-2012, 07:03 AM

Originally Posted by Silver Serpent

I've received orders in as little as 3 days, but I normally plan for waiting about a week if there's no custom work. If there's powdercoating, drill and tap work, blade assembly, etc., then it can be two or more weeks before you get your order.

When cutting your blade, put a bit of rag or paper towel in there to block any cutting particles from sneaking in the blade. It's also far easier to clean the inside of the blade BEFORE you glue on the tip. Trust me, I know from experience.

Yeah I plan on cuttin g2 inches off at work. Im going to use a hacksaw and then use a air gun to blow all the stuff out. Now where would I find the glue you were talking about ? you said no super glue right?

**Silver Serpent** · 08-09-2012, 07:13 AM

Any cyanoacrylate glue (super glue) will produce a frosted look on polycarbonate tubes. The effect is less noticeable on the trans-white blades. Super glue is also brittle when it dries, and the tips can fly off at bad times.

Weld-on #16 is pretty easy to work with, and it's available at TAP Plastics online. http://www.tapplastics.com/product/r..._16_cement/132 This product will actually fuse the tip and the blade into a single piece of plastic. If done properly, you're not gonna have flying tips, no matter how hard you swing your saber.