My first saber

[ThePhaden]

My first saber from this site, everything look ok?

MHSchoker MHS choke style 3


MHSRibbed MHS ribbed extension

POM3 Pommel style 3

Sledholder23 Screw on LED blade holder style 23

NHS MHS "new style" Heat Sink

2AAJST 2AA Battery Holder with JST connector
P4LM Seoul P4 LED & MHS Heatsink Module

•Seoul P4 (Red)

JSTCon JST connectors

1PCTWThick 1" Thick walled Trans White PolyC 40" long (No)

1thickbullet Bullet shaped tip for 1" thick walled blades

switch11 SPST Latching Guarded switch with red button

Shilt1G Hilt style 1 with guarded style switch hole

3.3ohm10w 3.3ohm 10w resistor

10-32red 10-32 x 3/8" Red Acetal thumb screw

10-32tap 10-32 Tap & drill set

[clahey83]

my first concern is your hilt length. im seeing it at about 16 inches. unless youre a giant thats pretty big and you might want to find a shorter configuration. usually about 12 inches give or take an inch or 2. i know it doesnt seem like much of a difference but when you get the hilt into your hand you will notice a clear difference.

my next cconcern is your LED/ resistor setup. from what i can tell youre only going to have 3volts with the 2 AA batteries. might i suggest a 4AAA battery back and a 4.7 ohm 3Watt resistor? the 4AAA batt pack will move around less inside of your hilt and you wont have any issues with getting enough voltage to your P4. thats all i can think of for now. looks like youve been doing a decent amount of reading (which is encouraged in this forum) and you should have your first saber completed in no time.

have you put any thought into adding sound? for my first build i managed to install the sound board from a $20 qui-gon hasbro lightsaber (same board as the 2010 hasbro obi-wan board so many people use) and after getting rid of the flash effects i was very happy with it. if you do that make sure you use a momentary switch and one of the speakers they offer on this site.

[Evilpancreas]

My hilt is 13 in and it feels huge. It's pretty easy to get carried away and make a giant hilt.

[thirdbasscode]

Why not use a 4AA battery pack and a buckpuck. The battery pack will easily fit your saber at this length and with these batteries last longer. The buckpuck will make sure your LED will keep its brightness equally, even with lower battery power.
Also, why not buy a complete blade set? Much easier. 40" is also very long, 36" is most used

[thirdbasscode]

I'm also building a sword right now, but I didnt want to add sound do to the expensive soundboard from TCSS. How did you fix it with the hasbro board?

[thirdbasscode]

I don't wanna sound like an expert by the way (I'm building my first sword too), but I have learned a lot in the past few days, so I'm just sharing thoughts.
You might want to look into my thread and see what items I'm gonna order. You need more then you might think.
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ry-first-blade

[ThePhaden]

Thanks for the help an feed back! I've always been one for long hilts. I like the feeling of a doubled bladed saber but only with one blade if you know what I mean. And what should I do about my LED again?

[thirdbasscode]

Well, you can look at this and buy a fully prepared LED in one go: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Re...dule-P653.aspx
And for the duration of your LED and batteries: when using a normal resistor, your LED will shine pretty bright with full batteries, but will shine less bright as your batteries run dry. With a BuckPuck, you won't have this problem, as it regulates the voltage and keeps it at a constant. Your LED will shine at the same brightness with full or lower batteries.

[ThePhaden]

Thanks again man,
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Bu...wire-P364.aspx

is this ok for the buckpuck?

also updated my cart with a 4 double a pack is this all better now?


Hilt style 1 with guarded style switch hole

POM3 Pommel style 3

Sledholder23 Screw on LED blade holder style 23

NHS MHS "new style" Heat Sink

MHSRibGroov MHS ribbed extension v-grooved

MHSchoker MHS choke style 3

1thickbullet Bullet shaped tip for 1" thick walled blades
4AAMHS 4AA Battery holder

switch11 SPST Latching Guarded switch with red button

JSTCon JST connectors

1PCTWThick 1" Thick walled Trans White PolyC 40" long (36 inches +$0.50)

RSLM Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module
Luxeon Rebel Star (Red)


10-32red 10-32 x 3/8" Red Acetal thumb screw

10-32tap 10-32 Tap & drill set

Buck1000N BuckPuck 1000mA 4-wire

[thirdbasscode]

With the red lights you need a 700mA BuckPuck, but the 4-wire variant is ok. Just change it to a 700mA version.
Also, you don't need any other stuff for the LED, like the new style heatsink. This is all build into LED set you added.
Again, try looking for a completly assambled blade instate of separte parts. You can add the bullet shapped tip there too.
I don't know if you're gonna use it for show or battles (or maybe both), but for each style is a different kind blade.