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Thread: My first blade

  1. #1

    Default My first blade

    Hai there everybody!
    I'm living in the Netherlands and after thinking long about it I have decided to build my own lightsaber with parts from TCSS. Problem is that since I live so far away, I want to buy all the right items in one go as shipping costs are pretty high for me.
    I want to build a saber to go with my Sith costume. I'm pretty familiar with the parts for the hilt, but I'm still not sure about the electronics. Especially since I want to make something special from it.
    I have decided to build a red LED saber with a 16mm Anti Vandal Latching Red Ring Switch, a driver board (for the light effects) and to probably go for a 4 battery pack.
    Parts I have already chosen for the hilt are:
    - 7" Fluted body
    - Ribbed / Choke Combo extension
    - Screw on LED blade holder style 1 blade holder (with heatsink adapter (don't know if I need it though))
    - MPS Pommel style 3 v1 pommel with MPS insert style 12 (when available again) and MPS clip
    This is what I know I need at least for the body, but I don't know what else I need, what I need to make the Anti Vandal switch work correctly and how the driver board works exactly.
    I was wondering if there are people on this forum who could help me complete my list of items I need and give me advice about building my saber with the driver board en switch.

  2. #2

    Default

    For the LED use this: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Se...dule-P654.aspx or this http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Re...dule-P653.aspx
    You can use a buckpuck or a resistor.
    You can buy a premade blade, or make your own: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Thick-Walled-C91.aspx
    Honey, you've been looking for love in Alderaan places!

  3. #3

    Default

    The LED won't be a problem, as will the blade be. i have already found those items in the shop and the exact ones i want to use.
    What I need is some help with the button and the resistor.
    The resistor I want to use i the one that allows the blade to look like it is going out and in, buy dimming the LED I guess. Seen it in the shop and on the forums already, but I'm not sure how to use it and if its compatible with the switch I want to use.
    Which brings me to my second problem, which is the switch. The switch I want to use is a switch with and LED in it that will activate with the button and show a red ring when active. But i'm not sure how to do the wireing with a switch like that or if it even finds my hilt body or that I need an extra part

  4. #4

  5. #5

    Default

    When you say driver board for the LED do you mean the PC board, and if you use the PC soundboard you wont need a resistor are buck puck due to the PC board having a LED driver built in. as far as your switch you have 4 connections 2 open and close circuit and 2 to power LED which you will require a resistor for, also you will need a tact switch for PC board. most people go for a slide switch, and tact switch when using PC sound board.
    "A foolish man fights a fight he'll lose, and lose foolishly".

  6. #6

    Default

    I have been looking around and have decided to go for a buckpuck, since its a bit easier for a first time. And I can always buy other parts later and instal those.
    But how will the wireing go from the battery pack to buckpuck and switch? including resistors etc. I have a little idea how it needs to go now, but not sure I got it all the way with the 4 connections on the switch.
    I know it first goes from battery to switch (circuit), then from the close circuit to buckpuck and then whats the best i can do? from switch LED to blade LED?

  7. #7

    Default

    the switch only needs to be wired to close and open the circuit from the battery to the buckpuck (you can choose to use the other poles on the switch to go to the switch LED as well so that the ring turns on when the circuit is closed and off when the circuit is open)

    You are basically going to have 2 circuits:
    1) power -> switch -> buckpuck -> blade LED
    2) power -> switch (optional) -> resistor -> switch LED

    The optional switch in the switch LED path will control whether you want the AV ring to always be lit when there are batteries (not wired through switch) or to turn off and on with the switch just like the blade (or opposite if you choose)

    I usually wire my switch LEDs to be always on (not switched), but I use a rechargeable pack with a kill key that cuts power to them when my saber is completely off.

  8. #8

    Default

    Thanks for the reply! Was really usefull for me.
    I want to have the switch LED turn on when I turn on the blade and turn off when the blade is off. I already figured out how to wire that.
    What I still don't know for sure is if I need an activation box to let the switch fit my blade. Anybody who can help me with that?
    When I know if I need an activation box or not, I'm gonna open a new thread to report the development on my blade starting with a post with all the components I'm gonna order, so that more experienced builders can take a look at it and tell me if I forgot anything.

  9. #9

    Default

    You don't need activation box Tim will drill out hole in hilt for switch (for a cost).
    "A foolish man fights a fight he'll lose, and lose foolishly".

  10. #10

    Default

    Do you by any chance know what this costs (is it cheaper than an activation box) and how I add these costs to my order?

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