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Thread: Question regarding recharge ports...

  1. #1

    Default Question regarding recharge ports...

    For those who have done a fair amount of recharge port set ups, does anyone know if the recharge port will go through both a V-grooved rib section AND a shroud made of the sleeve material? Hard to describe without pictures or a rendering. Basically I want the port to go from the inside, and be held in place by the nut from the outside, with the tip of the port and the nut being flush with the shroud. Looking for some input because I would like to be 100% sure before I go drilling a hole, I'd like to not have to make a new shroud if it doesn't work.
    H - "Your shelter is secure, is it?"
    M - "Of course it is! See for yourself just how powerless you are!"
    H - "Roger that."
    M - O_O

  2. #2

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    You'd be better off drilling and tapping a hole in the rib section and then making a hole in the shroud. No need to use the nut, just screw the port in to the threaded hole in the rib section.



  3. #3

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    Or use Jay-Gon's pvc c-clip trick as screwing the port in might be an issue depending on how close to an end it was.

  4. #4

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    It's going to be right in the middle of the ribbed section, so screwing it into a hole would be very tricky. PVC clip trick might work, but would it be flush after going through PVC, the ribbed section AND the shroud?
    Last edited by CGompertz09; 07-26-2012 at 09:44 AM.
    H - "Your shelter is secure, is it?"
    M - "Of course it is! See for yourself just how powerless you are!"
    H - "Roger that."
    M - O_O

  5. #5

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    I think it'd be close to the outer face of the ribbed section but probably recessed a bit from that - the sink drain extension I used the last time I made one of these was on the fat side of 1/32" thick, and you've got the internal radius that comes into play. I've got a ribbed grooved extension over at the shop I could do a mock up on but I won't be able to get over there until saturday. We upgraded our AutoCad software here at the office to the non-3d version or I'd do a quick mock up that way (sorry).

  6. #6

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    I have used the c-clip method for mounting a recharge port in a ribbed extension once, on my CS-X saber. The port will be flush only with the outside diameter of the robbed extension, not the sleeve material. You'll just need to drill a large enough hole in the sleeve to allow the charge jack to seat properly into the charge port.

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  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay-gon Jinn View Post
    I have used the c-clip method for mounting a recharge port in a ribbed extension once, on my CS-X saber. The port will be flush only with the outside diameter of the robbed extension, not the sleeve material. You'll just need to drill a large enough hole in the sleeve to allow the charge jack to seat properly into the charge port.
    So would that mean that if I mounted it NOT using the pvc, that it should go all the way through to the shroud?
    H - "Your shelter is secure, is it?"
    M - "Of course it is! See for yourself just how powerless you are!"
    H - "Roger that."
    M - O_O

  8. #8

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    Had the older software loaded at home so I modeled this scenario.If you went the threaded hole route, the port would extend about half way through the shroud material at the center line of the port, a smidge more at the outer edge. Remember though, you'd have to free spin the port into place, which would be tough with the wires already attached so you'd probably have to do that AFTER the port was installed. My solder skills are not that high, let alone the heat shrink. Were you planning on using the port threads to hold the shroud in place?

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by amwolf View Post
    Had the older software loaded at home so I modeled this scenario.If you went the threaded hole route, the port would extend about half way through the shroud material at the center line of the port, a smidge more at the outer edge. Remember though, you'd have to free spin the port into place, which would be tough with the wires already attached so you'd probably have to do that AFTER the port was installed. My solder skills are not that high, let alone the heat shrink. Were you planning on using the port threads to hold the shroud in place?
    No, the shroud is already held in place by 4 button head screws. My idea would be to have the port held in place by the nut on the outside, flush with the shroud.
    H - "Your shelter is secure, is it?"
    M - "Of course it is! See for yourself just how powerless you are!"
    H - "Roger that."
    M - O_O

  10. #10

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    Back to my computer model (remembered to save it this time), and if my models are correct the issue I keep bumping into is that the length of the threaded area on the ports is almost the same as the thickness of the ribbed extension once competing radii are factored in, so to have the port threads proud of the extension you've either got to flatten an area on the exterior of the extension OR bore out an area on the interior of the extension to allow the port to project. The nut is about the same thickness as the MHS shroud material so you could achieve a flush-ish look, but you'd need a hole in the shroud larger than the dimension across the widest point of the nut either way. Hmmm. Sends me running back to the c-clip idea for its cleaner look and smaller holes. Or drill a hole through the extension big enough so that the port passes through it and would actually mount to the shroud with the nut. Not flush though...

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