First Build and need some help

[Rimshot15]

Good afternoon/evening everybody,

I've been on this site for the past few months working on a build and I think I have the majority worked out.
The main sticking point however, is that I am in no way an electronics person. So, I honestly don't know what extras I need and not sure on a power supply either.
Only going to be one led currently, and no sound. Might eventually add sound at a later date but figured I'd keep it simple.

• Screw on LED blade holder style 4 (Tap hole 8-32 for thumb screw)
• 4" Double female threaded connector
• 2" Double female threaded connector
• MHS Extension Blank Style 3
• MPS Pommel style 10 (Powder Coated) (Tap hole 8-32 for covertec)
• MPS Clip
• MPS Insert style 6
• Machined button for Covertec clip
• 8-32 x 1/4" socket head
• Double ended male threaded connector style 2 (Powder Coated)
• MHS choke style 1 short (Powder Coated)
• Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module
• 16mm Anti Vandal Latching White Ring Switch
• Brass Bezel for Illuminated switches
• LED Trans White Show blade 1" OD

There will also be the machining for the switch itself, either on the MHS Extension Blank Style 3 or the 2" Double female threaded connector. Also, the emiter shown might change since it's currently outta stock and no clue when it might be back in.
Here is an image of the basic layout via the builder:


Thanks for any and all help in advance

[Silver Serpent]

Looks like a good start.

For electronics, we'll need to know which color LED you're planning on using. Red and amber Rebels use a different amount of current than the other colors.

You will need a battery pack of some sort, and some form of power regulation (resistor, buckpuck, etc.) You will also need an additional resistor for the LED in the switch. Pick a color for your main LED, and if you'd like to use regular alkalines or rechargeable batteries, and we can assist you a bit more.

[Rimshot15]

Ack, forgot the color on the LED! I was planning on just using the white one and probably use filters for now, not really sold on any one color just yet so want to sorta feel it out.

As for power supply, I was thinking something rechargeable is where I'd like to go. If I plan on using sound at a later date, does that change the dynamics of what to use power wise?

[mrknify]

yes, a circuit is made to balance, you may want to check the math on this one.......

[DarkarNights]

If you plan to add a Petit Crouton in the future it will need a 7.4V Li-ion 2 cell pack, there's a smaller board coming out soon called the Nano Biscotte which will take a 3.7V Li-ion 1 cell pack.

[shmoetech]

oooh tell me more about this Nano biscotte?
rimshot15 dont forget solder iron and solder, heat shrink also.

[Silver Serpent]

Info on Nano Biscotte: http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=36467.0 Coming soon to the TCSS store!

I hear estimates of around a month (maybe less) until it hits the store. As DarkarNights said, the NB uses a single li-ion battery, while the PC uses two. I would go ahead and purchase an appropriate battery solution for the sound board you intend to use in the future.

You can calculate resistor value with an online resistor calculator. I use http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz and you can find values for your particular LED on the store's page for that LED: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Lu...Star-P523.aspx

Li-ion is rechargeable, and works very well in lightsabers. It has a lot of power, and doesn't take up too much room. You'll have to decide if you want in-hilt recharge, or if you want to remove the batteries to recharge. That's more of a convenience and aesthetics issue, and is entirely up to you.

[shmoetech]

Just checked out the Nano Biscotte.....man is that thing small. The prospects for that board is endless...can't wait!

[Rimshot15]

Oi, been a busy week so haven't been able to get back on and reply.
So, if I go with the Nano I'd have the 3.7V lithium and this looks like the wireing if I've got it right.
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz?VS=3.7;VF=3.1;ID=1000
If I went the the buckpuck it would eliminate that resistor though right? It'd be the 1000mA type right and 6-wire or am I getting things mixed up?
Also, how does the lighted switch come into play? I plug the equation into the calculator just for that and this is what comes up http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz?VS=3.7;VF=3.3;ID=20
but would that go in before the buckpuck/blade or after?
If I decided to go with rechargeable batteries and a holder, that would change everything right?

Also, since the holder I was planning to use is out of stock I'm thinking on using Screw on LED blade holder style 17 instead. The thumb screw should still work on there right?

[Jordandau]

Buckpucks take the place of the resistor, with a Red rebel I wouldn't overdrive it. They don't like that. Lighted switch can be done a multitude of ways, depending on how you want it to react is how you'd wire it. Some boards have specific spots for a lighted switch, if they don't you can put it either inbetween the battery and the board so when you pull the key it turns on or, between the board and main led so that it comes on with the blade. I wouldn't recommend that though.