Force FX board with LED string and Power Xtender?

[DarkarNights]

My apologies for jumping to a conclusion that was wrong. I was in error.

[Matt Thorn]

No problem, I hope we can move on. And I just realized earlier that I failed to thank either you or Ari-Jaq for trying to help. So, a belated thanks to you both.

[Ari-Jaq Xulden]

Your welcome Matt. I have some reading for you. It appears you may not even need the PeX. Check out these two links http://www.slothfurnace.com/sabers/ROTJLuke_02.html http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...=string+ladder. Yes it scrolls with this setup, you can view Sloth's videos to see it.

[Don Se Wion]

Well, never tried anything like this but I think I can make a plan for it.
I'm at work and can't draw a diagram, but I'll try to be a clear as possible.

First of all, you should wire the led strings in parallel for a very simple reason.
Let's say for example that you have a string of 10 LED's in series.
In this case you would need 10x2,2V to light them up, definitely outside the standard battery solution in our applications.
So, you need to wire them in parallel and you will need to find the proper resistor to provide 10x30mA current, 300mA.
With a 4.5V battery the proper resistor would be 7.5 Ohm / 1W.

Obviously these calculations must be adapted to the correct number of LED's you have in each string.

Regarding the board, in other to save the scrolling effect I would remove the 6 transistors and replace them with 6 PEX boards.
In other words, I would wire each R pad of the PEX modules to the pads on the MR board previously used for the transistor's bases.

To identify the proper pads just follow the traces connecting the transistors to the 6 resistors, they are easily identified because they are normally soldered side by side and close to the transistors.
The old MR boards are easier to convert since they use standard transistors with passthrough holes where you can solder the wire for the PEX.
Using the newer MR/Hasbro board with SMD components would be a bit more tricky because they don't have passthrough holes, but it can be done with tiny wires and some fancy soldering.

Last thing I would test after wiring the PEX would be measuring the current given to each string.
If the current going to the LED string is too low and the LED's look dim, I would remove the resistors on the MR board replacing them with jumpers.
The reason for this is that sometimes the current sent to the PEX is not high enough to properly send it in saturation.
Considering the PEX are using MOSFET's this may not be needed, but you never know until you wire everything together and light it up.
This is something I always need to do when using a single TIP41 / TIP42 in MR board mods, but may not be required with MOSFET's.

[Matt Thorn]

Ari-Jaq, Don Se Wion, that is precisely the kind of information I was looking for! Thank you so much. Obviously, I need to work on my Search-Fu. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again!

[Evilpancreas]

What do you think Master Yoda would say about this argument?

[Kevin Starwaster]

What do you think Master Yoda would say about this argument?

I was going to give some flippant reply about this leading to that leading to suffering, etc etc, but the only thing I can think of leading to true suffering is deprivation of blood orange sorbet and that just didn't seem to fit.

[thejedilestat]

Matt just do what anyone else would do... Pay someone to do it for you



Wish I could help but only thing I can manage is that lack of whit I carry in abundance