PLI not lighting

[ZacMuleer]

Hi all - long time lurker, first time poster. Finished my first saber build (An Obi-Wan ROTS) and have caught the bug and can't wait to do more! Thanks to Tim for all his direct help and thanks to y'all who have posted so helpfully in the forums.

But onto my issue.

I got a PLI and I can't seem to get it to light up when the saber is activated. It seems pretty straightforward - but I'm not sure where I'm running into an issue.

Here's my setup:

1000mA Buckpuck (with all the JST connectors)
4 AAA battery pack
P4 Blue LED
PLI (modified to a JST connector)

So, I plug in the battery to the buckpuck, and the LED into the buckpuck and everything is golden. When I plug the PLI into the RECHARGE port (and use the labeled '6v' resistor that comes with the PLI), the PLI lights up amazingly when the saber is powered off. (So I know the modification to JST is solid.)

But when I plug it into the Accent LED plug in the buckpuck, there is nothing on the PLI. I've tried a 220ohm, 1/4W resistor in the buckpuck (which is what was recommended on the resistor chart for an accent LED), and after asking Tim, a plain wire (no resistance) in the ARES spots. Still nothing.

I've almost given up the PLI being a part of this saber. Any recommendations from here?

Thanks!

Dan

[Strydur]

What does it do when it is in the recharge port and the saber is on? Does it not light at all or just dim? Can you take a picture of your wiring?

[ZacMuleer]

Hi Tim!

When the saber is on, and the PLI plugged into the recharge port, the PLI powers off. Basically it looks like what happens when Obi-Wan turns off the tractor beam. It shows a quick power drain to nothing, and when the saber is turned back off, the PLI re-powers on and the LEDs light up to the charge point.

I'll try to get a picture of the wiring set up asap. I had gotten frustrated with it, so I closed it all up, sans PLI. (Though I did order a new buckpuck from you before I buy the rest of the pieces for my next saber to play with the PLI.) So I'll disassemble and take a pic soon. (Likely this weekend.)

THanks so much!

D

[Zzan]

you aren't putting the PLI after the buck puck are you?

Shouldn't it be directly off the battery (between the battery and buckpuck?) You want it to indicate your battery voltage level, not your LED voltage level (which should be constant and certainly less than 6v)

If you have it after the buckpuck between the puck and your LED that is probably your issue.

You should be able to play with it and get it to do it's work with just a battery pack and no buckpuck. Of course it will take a while for just your PLI LED's to drain the battery :P

[Kevin Starwaster]

you aren't putting the PLI after the buck puck are you?

Shouldn't it be directly off the battery (between the battery and buckpuck?) You want it to indicate your battery voltage level, not your LED voltage level (which should be constant and certainly less than 6v)

If you have it after the buckpuck between the puck and your LED that is probably your issue.

You should be able to play with it and get it to do it's work with just a battery pack and no buckpuck. Of course it will take a while for just your PLI LED's to drain the battery :P

Even 6v for an accent LED would be too high... more like 3.3v. Not familiar with the buckpucks but if they're outputting 3.3v for what's meant to be an accent LED AND he's also resistoring the PLI it would be normal behavior for it not light up. (it would think that the voltage is so low that it needs to register empty)

Shouldn't it be wired between the recharge port and the buckpuck? That way it'll come on when the key is removed.

[ZacMuleer]

I'll be honest, I'm not rightly sure. I'm a newb at this.

I had assumed that since the buckpuck (The MWS kit) is wired for an accent LED (and an accent resistor) that it would measure the battery level as the main LED was turned on.

If I wire the PLI directly to the battery, and not through the buckpuck, wouldn't the PLI be 'on" ALL the time (until the battery runs out)? Because the switch is connected to the buckpuck as well.

I thought that was the magic of the buckpuck - that everything was connected through a central locale.

Any recommendations?

[Crystal Chambers]

Sounds like you need a DPDT switch. Activate the two circuits independently but at the same time.

[DarkarNights]

Listen to Crystal you should. With a DPDT switch you would wire one circut of the switch to the buckpuck as normal, and wire the second circuit of the switch to between the battery and PLI, that way the PLI only gets power with the switch ignited.

[ZacMuleer]

Ahhhh. I see, says the grasshopper. So for example: the red line of the battery would be plugged into the buckpuck (not a JST connector), and the black line to one of the four switch connectors. The other side of the switch connector is plugged into the, say, red wire coming from the PLI. THe black line from the PLI then goes into the buckpuck where the black line for the battery should go. (Then main LED to main LED leads, and the other two switch connectors plugged into the buckpuck (where it's designated for "switch".)

Resistors where they are supposed to go (just in the PLI), etc etc.

Is that about right?

If so, I gotta find some DPDT switches that'll work. Tim, planning on carrying those?

[DarkarNights]

They are some already in the store, just read the descriptions of each button to find them. I think most, if not all, are the illuminated anti vandals. If you use an illuminated switch then use the accent led wires to go to the illuminated ring leads. I think the way you described the setup is right, but it's late and I'm having trouble thinking clearly and picturing the wires, so wait for someone else to confirm that.