PLI not lighting

[Kevin Starwaster]

Ahhhh. I see, says the grasshopper. So for example: the red line of the battery would be plugged into the buckpuck (not a JST connector), and the black line to one of the four switch connectors. The other side of the switch connector is plugged into the, say, red wire coming from the PLI. THe black line from the PLI then goes into the buckpuck where the black line for the battery should go. (Then main LED to main LED leads, and the other two switch connectors plugged into the buckpuck (where it's designated for "switch".)

Resistors where they are supposed to go (just in the PLI), etc etc.

Is that about right?

If so, I gotta find some DPDT switches that'll work. Tim, planning on carrying those?

That.... sounds about right, but just to be sure, make a wiring diagram demonstrating what you're proposing so we can take a look at it. But it sounds right.

[ZacMuleer]

They are some already in the store, just read the descriptions of each button to find them. I think most, if not all, are the illuminated anti vandals. If you use an illuminated switch then use the accent led wires to go to the illuminated ring leads. I think the way you described the setup is right, but it's late and I'm having trouble thinking clearly and picturing the wires, so wait for someone else to confirm that.

The dot/ring buttons all say "SPST", but would they work they same way for both the PLI and the illuminated switch? I'll draw a wire diargram in the morning. I'm guessing I'll need a resistor somewhere along those lines between the battery and the switch? Y'all are right , it IS late. lol

Thanks for all the input! I'll give the diagram a go tomorrow.

Dan

[Kevin Starwaster]

The dot/ring buttons all say "SPST", but would they work they same way for both the PLI and the illuminated switch? I'll draw a wire diargram in the morning. I'm guessing I'll need a resistor somewhere along those lines between the battery and the switch? Y'all are right , it IS late. lol

Thanks for all the input! I'll give the diagram a go tomorrow.

Dan

The DPDT switches are all under AV Long.

Also, thinking back to the wiring setup you were describing before, I don't think you would want to do it like that. One set of switch leads would be for the PLI exclusively: batt+ > Switch NO1, batt- > Switch C1. (refer to the switch diagram and then reread that and it'll make sense). Then the others (NO2 / C2) would be for the buckpuck.

AV Latching Green Ring

Like the description says, it is kind of long and you said you were doing a ROTS Obi, so do you think you can fit that in?

[ZacMuleer]

The DPDT switches are all under AV Long.

Also, thinking back to the wiring setup you were describing before, I don't think you would want to do it like that. One set of switch leads would be for the PLI exclusively: batt+ > Switch NO1, batt- > Switch C1. (refer to the switch diagram and then reread that and it'll make sense). Then the others (NO2 / C2) would be for the buckpuck.

Like the description says, it is kind of long and you said you were doing a ROTS Obi, so do you think you can fit that in?

AH-HA! Thank you! Yeah, it'd be a little long for my ROTS obi in its current form (which is why I didn't dive into the AV long switch section) - but perhaps I can add a bevel and raise the switch up a teeny bit - that might work.

So whatever LED ring/dot is in the switch is just ignored, right? (fine with me)

[DarkarNights]

No, it's not ignored, that's what your accent led wires will drive. You will have 6 wires coming off that one button. 2 for the accent led, 2 for the battery and PLI circuit, 2 for the buckpuck switch wires.

[Zzan]

Even 6v for an accent LED would be too high... more like 3.3v. Not familiar with the buckpucks but if they're outputting 3.3v for what's meant to be an accent LED AND he's also resistoring the PLI it would be normal behavior for it not light up. (it would think that the voltage is so low that it needs to register empty)

Shouldn't it be wired between the recharge port and the buckpuck? That way it'll come on when the key is removed.

I think the 6v on the resistor refers to the incoming power supply. that is why it comes with multiple resistors so you use the one that corresponds to your specific power supply. It is already the right resistor value for the PLI LED's provided you use the correct one for your power supply.

[Crystal Chambers]

Think of the LED and PLI it as two entirely different circuits triggered together. I've yet to use a puck but imagine the = is the negative and positive leads.

LED=PUCK=SWITCH=CELLS

PLI= RESISTOR=SWITCH=CELLS

This way you'd have two sets of leads between the switch and cells, 4 wires. The only common points between the two circuits is the cells because the leads divide to the separate poles/throws of the switch.

[Kevin Starwaster]

I think the 6v on the resistor refers to the incoming power supply. that is why it comes with multiple resistors so you use the one that corresponds to your specific power supply. It is already the right resistor value for the PLI LED's provided you use the correct one for your power supply.

Yes, that's correct. You choose your resistor based on your powersupply. But, he was referring to having connected the PLI to the buckpuck's accent LED connection which (assuming) is around 3.3v.

[ZacMuleer]

In the interest of cram-fu, I am revisiting this thread to re-wire this saber. Right now, it's an absolute mess, and I think I have a better handle on wiring without a buckpuck. So, onto the question:

If I remove the buckpuck and replace the main LED with a resistor, and wire the PLI in parallel with the main LED, would I still need a DPDT switch? Will the spst latching switch be able to handle both?

...and will this negatively effect my main LED's lumen output?

Here's a typed out wiring sketch of what I was planning to do. (remembering that the PLI comes with a resistor that is marked with whatever the source voltage you are using, in my case, 6V). I guess my big question is, what happens with the voltage when you put the two LEDs in parallel?

[diagram removed due to crappy formatting. will insert in a moment]


Thanks, all - hope this makes sense.

[ZacMuleer]

diagram.jpg

Diagram now attached for above post.