The lightsaber hilt is capable of producing a blade of pure energy. The lightsaber hilt has proven to be completely safe. The saber blade however has not. Do not touch the operational end of the saber blade. Do not look directly at the operational end of the saber blade. Do not immerse the saber blade into your flesh, not even partially.
The dot/ring buttons all say "SPST", but would they work they same way for both the PLI and the illuminated switch? I'll draw a wire diargram in the morning. I'm guessing I'll need a resistor somewhere along those lines between the battery and the switch? Y'all are right , it IS late. lol
Thanks for all the input! I'll give the diagram a go tomorrow.
Dan
The DPDT switches are all under AV Long.
Also, thinking back to the wiring setup you were describing before, I don't think you would want to do it like that. One set of switch leads would be for the PLI exclusively: batt+ > Switch NO1, batt- > Switch C1. (refer to the switch diagram and then reread that and it'll make sense). Then the others (NO2 / C2) would be for the buckpuck.
AV Latching Green Ring
Like the description says, it is kind of long and you said you were doing a ROTS Obi, so do you think you can fit that in?
The lightsaber hilt is capable of producing a blade of pure energy. The lightsaber hilt has proven to be completely safe. The saber blade however has not. Do not touch the operational end of the saber blade. Do not look directly at the operational end of the saber blade. Do not immerse the saber blade into your flesh, not even partially.
AH-HA! Thank you! Yeah, it'd be a little long for my ROTS obi in its current form (which is why I didn't dive into the AV long switch section) - but perhaps I can add a bevel and raise the switch up a teeny bit - that might work.
So whatever LED ring/dot is in the switch is just ignored, right? (fine with me)
No, it's not ignored, that's what your accent led wires will drive. You will have 6 wires coming off that one button. 2 for the accent led, 2 for the battery and PLI circuit, 2 for the buckpuck switch wires.
My Saber, CopperHead
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?14643-DarkarNights-presents-CopperHead
Resistor Calculator: http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz
LED Brightness Chart: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?7266-LED-Brightness-Chart
How to wire a recharge port: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...JST-connectors
NEVER USE 9V BATTERIES!
I think the 6v on the resistor refers to the incoming power supply. that is why it comes with multiple resistors so you use the one that corresponds to your specific power supply. It is already the right resistor value for the PLI LED's provided you use the correct one for your power supply.
Think of the LED and PLI it as two entirely different circuits triggered together. I've yet to use a puck but imagine the = is the negative and positive leads.
LED=PUCK=SWITCH=CELLS
PLI= RESISTOR=SWITCH=CELLS
This way you'd have two sets of leads between the switch and cells, 4 wires. The only common points between the two circuits is the cells because the leads divide to the separate poles/throws of the switch.
Last edited by Crystal Chambers; 06-29-2012 at 12:27 PM.
The lightsaber hilt is capable of producing a blade of pure energy. The lightsaber hilt has proven to be completely safe. The saber blade however has not. Do not touch the operational end of the saber blade. Do not look directly at the operational end of the saber blade. Do not immerse the saber blade into your flesh, not even partially.
In the interest of cram-fu, I am revisiting this thread to re-wire this saber. Right now, it's an absolute mess, and I think I have a better handle on wiring without a buckpuck. So, onto the question:
If I remove the buckpuck and replace the main LED with a resistor, and wire the PLI in parallel with the main LED, would I still need a DPDT switch? Will the spst latching switch be able to handle both?
...and will this negatively effect my main LED's lumen output?
Here's a typed out wiring sketch of what I was planning to do. (remembering that the PLI comes with a resistor that is marked with whatever the source voltage you are using, in my case, 6V). I guess my big question is, what happens with the voltage when you put the two LEDs in parallel?
[diagram removed due to crappy formatting. will insert in a moment]
Thanks, all - hope this makes sense.
Last edited by ZacMuleer; 09-11-2012 at 06:22 AM.
diagram.jpg
Diagram now attached for above post.
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