Opinion on unconventional build?

[TrypWyr]

Hey all,

Awaiting my MHS parts for my first saber, already thinking forward to my second. (Seriously excited over my first build... already sanded my sleeve to brass and dremeled the shroud. No pics tho, not until I get closer to completion!)

So I was looking at the 2012 Custom Saber Winner, The Purge, and it got me thinking of a new design:

Floating saber.jpg

The idea is that the two parts would be joined by 3 or 4 "pipes", something like a bracket shape " [ ". The speaker would be mounted in the bottom of the front section, firing back. The front of the rear section (opposite the speaker) would either be an AV switch or an accent LED, perhaps even a captive-mount crystal? Of course the "brackets" would need to be mounted in such a way that wires would be run through them for the emitter and speaker.

I'm not sure how strong the connections would be to allow dueling, but I tend to prefer aesthetics over function as I don't duel. I've been reading through the gallery lately and haven't come across anything like this... anyone else seen a saber with a similar design? I would love to take a look.

[Aradian Valentine]

Interesting,
In addition to the brackets you could run four nylon or metal spacers/stand offs from piece to piece with a threaded rod contained within 3 of them, in the fourth, leave the rod out of the spacers/stand offs and run your wires there. Does that make sense?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

It wouldn't be very strong at all. PLUS, you would have to secure it to the top half of the hilt somehow. Can it be done - probably, but you probably wouldn't be able to fight with it, and it would take a lot of planning.

[Aradian Valentine]

It wouldn't be very strong at all. PLUS, you would have to secure it to the top half of the hilt somehow. Can it be done - probably, but you probably wouldn't be able to fight with it, and it would take a lot of planning.

I think between four brackets(lets assume they will be fastened to both ends) and additional support rods running the length of the open area it will approaching reasonable security, especially for an aesthetic build.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I think between four brackets(lets assume they will be fastened to both ends) and additional support rods running the length of the open area it will approaching reasonable security, especially for an aesthetic build.

It's the HOW it's secured that counts.

[Arryck Corso]

I have actually seen something like this designed on deviantart. Here is the pic of it:




I've actually borrowed some of the same aesthitics as your considering from this render (and another saber on deviantart) I found and designed an entire saber. And like Aradian suggested, I plan I using a "false" leg to run the wiring through it from one section to another. I figure a pentagonal or hexagonal pattern connecting the upper and lower sections will be provide some strength and will give me at least two false legs to run wiring back and forth if need be.

But forgetful jedi knight is right, I don't believe this would make a very functional saber as far as dueling is concerned. However I do believe it would make a really cool looking saber and would be just plain fun to build.

With that said, if you're looking to do something different and just have a real cool looking saber, I'd say go for it. I'd love to see what you come up with.

[Ari-Jaq Xulden]

I like this idea. I have built hilt-less chassis before, that's all you would really have to do. then cover it like a bikini securing any hilt/shroud pieces to the chassis. Take a look, I even bang it around at the end of the video.

[Vlad Doon]

Well, the idea's interesting for a saber. If the main section (when you handle the saber) is the one near the emitter, a central hollow steel pipe with some "legs" like in Arrick's photo would be enough

[Crystal Chambers]

I was considering a design like this for the contest back in November but changed my mind and thought I'd get around to it eventually. I would try and keep your grip area in the upper portion near the blade. Use Loktite on the threads to keep your chassis from coming loose.