Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3
Results 21 to 30 of 30

Thread: Sith Assassin

  1. #21
    Youngling Jordandau's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    North Hollywood, CA
    Posts
    220

    Default

    Bolt on would mean the item was "bolted on" or screwed on. Attached with some type of bolt, screw etc. Instead of glued on.

  2. #22

    Default

    Thanks, got it
    Clicky Sig =>


  3. #23

    Default

    Great work! I haven't met my post quota to PM you, sorry. However, I wondered if I could commission you to machine some custom claws for a staff saber I just ordered. If not do you know anyone else who might be up to it?

  4. #24

    Default

    Sales are not permitted on these forums. Check out the FX-Sabers forums, and there are people there who may be able to do what you want.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  5. #25

    Default

    Lol, I have a question similar to Southpaw's question, But I'd just like to know what the claws are made from. I have a claw design in mind, but I'm not sure yet what I should make them out of.
    Did you make the claws yourself? are they cut from an aluminum plate?
    What I would really like is to make mine out of stainless steel, and then heat the end near the blade to get that blue burned look, but cutting 3/8 inch steal may be a challenge for me.

    Anyone have some ideas?
    ~ The Yin ~

    “Yeah I’m pack’n heat! It’s to prevent anyone from making me cold.”

    For the saber building Younglings and Padawans: Basic Saber Building and The Saber Building Dictionary!

  6. #26

    Default

    Aluminum is fairly easy to work with. It's also lightweight, durable, and inexpensive. You can make claws out of most anything you have access to, like wood, acrylic, aluminum, or even stainless steel. Cutting and shaping a set of stainless steel claws is gonna take some patience (and good cutting tools).
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  7. #27

    Default

    Southpaw, thanks. I'm glad you like my saber.

    Like Silver Serpent said, soliciting and sales are not allowed on this particular forum as it is linked to a store that sells sabers and saber parts. Regardless, I am not taking on any custom work at this time and won't be for a very long time to come.

    In addition to FX-Sabers, you might also check out the Imperial Royal Arms forum and the Replica Props Forum. All forums mentioned have excellent smiths/machinists/prop makers that may be able to help you out.

    The Yin, the large claws were made from 3/8" thick aluminum flat bar and the small claws were made from 1/4" aluminum flat bar. I drew the design on graph paper, scanned it to the computer using a flat bed scanner and printed the design out on adhesive backed printer paper. I then cut the design out, peeled off the backing and stuck the design onto the aluminum I used a milling machine to remove most of the unwanted material and for the large claws, used a table top belt sander, files, and foam back sand paper to finish making them. The holes for the bolts were also drilled and milled out using the milling machine. I hope that helps.

    http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y23...0Saber%20Hilts

    From Wikipedia: "Internet Explorer slows down GIFs if the framerate is 20 frames per second or higher and Microsoft reports that Google Chrome and Safari also slow down some GIF animations."

  8. #28

    Default

    Thanks for the info Arkm,

    I wont have a milling mech, but I have plenty of tools for cutting/sanding/drilling. I'll probably buy some stainless steel and test out the difficult of working with it as well. I really like the blue burn look.
    ~ The Yin ~

    “Yeah I’m pack’n heat! It’s to prevent anyone from making me cold.”

    For the saber building Younglings and Padawans: Basic Saber Building and The Saber Building Dictionary!

  9. #29

    Default

    I'm not 100% on this, but I believe brass will change colors when heated as well. It's certainly easier to work with than stainless steel. You may not want brass colored claws, but it is something to consider.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  10. #30

    Default

    Brass is non ferrous so grinding it on a bench grinder or hitting it with a blow torch doesn't really change the color. With a torch you might get a little surface discoloration but it's only on the surface and can be buffed off easily.
    Last edited by ARKM; 04-26-2015 at 03:12 PM.

    http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y23...0Saber%20Hilts

    From Wikipedia: "Internet Explorer slows down GIFs if the framerate is 20 frames per second or higher and Microsoft reports that Google Chrome and Safari also slow down some GIF animations."

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •