Hello everyone

[Evilpancreas]

So I'm a n00b looking for some quick guidance. I have compiled a list of the stuff that I intend to buy to make my first lightsaber. Could one of you look over it and see if the components are correct? I don't want to buy any unneccesary things.

Screw on LED blade holder style 17
MPS Clip
MPS Pommel style 8
MPS Insert style 8
3/16" Adhesive lined heatshrink tubing
Dual 24 gauge wire (Extra wiring just in-case)
MHS choke style 3
7" Fluted with guarded style switch hole
SPST Momentary Guarded switch with silver button
Drill & Tap Hole (8-32) (For the blade retention screw)
Machine Guarded style switch hole (For the guarded switch)
8-32 x 5/16" thumb screw (For holding the blade)
LED "TCSS style" Battle blade 1" OD (36 inches)
Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module
2AA Battery Holder with JST connector
2.7ohm 10w resistor



So yeah guys thanks for the help.

[TuxedoCartman]

You wil not need "Machine Guarded style switch hole" in addition the "7-inch Fluted with guarded style switch hole". It already comes with the hole.

Otherwise, it looks to me like you've got everything.

[Evilpancreas]

Thanks very much for the reply. Could you possibly point to me where I can find a guide on wiring an LED with JST connectors?

[Silver Serpent]

Connect black to black, red to red. Wire the switch inline with the black wire (or the red one, but not both), and wire the resistor up the same way.

Or you can skip the resistor and get the MWS wired buckpuck and just plug things together. It'll be more efficient than a resistor, but you need to have more than 5v in your battery pack to make it work. 2x alkalines won't work, but 2x li-ions will. 4x alkalines will work until they get about half drained, then it gets a bit flaky until you replace the batteries.

[Evilpancreas]

Thanks again. Could you possibly provide a diagram? Its not very easy to understand when its written.

[Silver Serpent]

My diagrams are pretty bad, but here you go:



"A" is your battery pack
"B" is your switch
"C" is your LED module
"D" is your resistor

If you choose to go with the buckpuck instead, then you just plug things into the correct slots and it should all work.

[Evilpancreas]

I didn't realize that using a buckpuck was so much simpler. Just wanted to say thanks for everyone being patient with my silly questions. Hopefully I'll be able to wire this piggy properly and post a pic of the working saber. Thanks again guys

[Silver Serpent]

Not a problem. Remember if you go with the buckpuck, you will need a minimum of 5v to power your saber. That's either 4 regular alkaline batteries, or 2 li-ion batteries.

[Nico]

Hello every body i am new member of this forum and this is very informative thread and i am looking for send this forum to my
friends