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Thread: Need help on illuminated switch position

  1. #1

    Default Need help on illuminated switch position

    Hi first off thanks for reading

    My question is I want to mount an illuminated switch in the same spot as the picture, but it looks like it would require drilling through threads which I don't like. The picture is from RO lightsabers starkiller. I want to use an ill switch at that position instead of a graflex knob with no real function. Is it possible?




    I appreciate everyone's time in reading this.

  2. #2

    Default

    You technically can drill through the threads, but it's ill-advised. Threads break in over time, with each (dis)assembly, which eventually alters their maximum stopping depth. You could create a depth gauge, or a stopper nut, but no guarantees. Drilling through the threads will also weaken them.

    Hey, man, I'm with you: I want a switch as high up on the hilt as I can get it. I'm just saying that it might be wise to alter the design so that you're not into the threads. It might be possible to work out a custom body that's slightly longer than the original, so that everything "looks" like it's on-spec, but the emitter is a bit farther out than it should be. Even then, you've got to be sure that the AV switch depth isn't greater than the minimum, or you'll be hitting the other side of the body with the terminals.

    I would suggest reading up on every available text on the forum; especially the veterans'. Some of these people have posted amazing information I would never have thought of. Series/Parallel Multi-Die LED wiring, for example; I would never have thought of wiring half of the dice in series, then wiring the pairs in parallel, to meet the v/mA requirements of the PC. After reading the solution (I think it was FenderBender), I kicked myself. The answer's gotta be out there.

    I know it's this group's favorite mantra, but "do some reading" might apply in this case. I can offer my eyes to the search, but I promise nothing. I'm new to this game, too.

    I wish you luck.

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks I really appreciate your help, I have been search most of what I found was about not drilling threads which is why I'm trying to get help. As for the switch touching the other side I'll be using the bezel to lift it http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Be...ches-P448.aspx once again thanks for the response. I'll keep looking hopefully I can get it done somehow.

  4. #4

    Default

    Best advice I can offer is to go looking through the galleries here and at FX Sabers, find one that has the switch mounted up high, then (if there's no build log) beg and plead with the sabersmith to tell you how they accomplished it. I know there's some guys who manage to make the switches up high like that work on Luke/ Anakin conversions, so it's definitely possible. Actually, you might want to focus your search on that, come to think of it: Graflex sabers.

    Oh, and if you figure it out? Share with the rest of us!
    Boring conversation anyway...

  5. #5

    Default

    You don't want to put an AV switch there. That said, there are other options. Keep in mind though that the Graflex switch doesn't have to have no function. Almost all Graflex conversions have a mini tactile mounted under the Graflex switch to serve as either the main or aux button. If it were my build, I'd go that route a lighted switch just doesn't work in that design, IMPO. Here's a link to my Graflex with both red buttons set-up with mini tactiles...




  6. #6
    Youngling vadeblade's Avatar
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    Default

    I would agree with IndustrialAction, you dont want to drill there. Not only is that area threaded, but isnt that area where the main LED and the lense reside?

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