Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Dumb question but here it goes.

  1. #1

    Default Dumb question but here it goes.

    I'm new here but two questions:

    First when you insert the new heat sink into a blade holder how tight should the fit be between those two parts? Mine only went together half way then I used a press to fully insert the heat sink into the blade holder. Is that right?

    Second what is the major differences (runtime, safety) between the Li-ion and NIHM cells?

    Thanks for the help.

    Tweeder

  2. #2

    Default

    You should not have to use a press to slide the new style heatsink/LED holder into a blade holder. Keep in mind that the only thing that goes into the blade holder is the aluminum section that holds the lens and lens holder in place over top of the LED is the only part that slides in. The ring with the threads that screws onto the heat sink will rest against the bottom and be snugged between the blade holder and the MHS part that you screw the blade holder into. See the 4th picture in this link to the store to see a new style heatsink properly inserted into a blade holder. The heat sink itself actually sits under the blade holder and extends into the next section.

    NiMH = 1.2v per cell, Li-Ion = 3.7v per cell.

    2 Li-ion = 7.4v, 4 NiMH = 4.8v Some driver boards have minimum voltages and 4.8 may not be enough, buckpucks require a 5v minimum.

    Li-ion beats the pants off of NiMH.

    As far as safety goes: use the correct charger, don't submerge in water, do not leave charging unattended, when used properly they aren't any more dangerous than anything else.
    Last edited by Zzan; 04-16-2012 at 07:57 AM.

  3. #3

    Default

    yeah the aluminum part only would insert half way, so when I screwed the blade holder into my chock still about 1/8 in of threads were still showing. the heatsinhk is in there so tight it wont come out ever. yeah i can open the heat sink up change led and stuff.

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tweeder View Post
    yeah the aluminum part only would insert half way, so when I screwed the blade holder into my chock still about 1/8 in of threads were still showing. the heatsinhk is in there so tight it wont come out ever. yeah i can open the heat sink up change led and stuff.
    that sounds a little bizarre, mine is loose enough that if i have those pie es apart and i forget that the module is insrted it, it can fall out when I'm handling it
    The lightsaber hilt is capable of producing a blade of pure energy. The lightsaber hilt has proven to be completely safe. The saber blade however has not. Do not touch the operational end of the saber blade. Do not look directly at the operational end of the saber blade. Do not immerse the saber blade into your flesh, not even partially.

  5. #5

    Default

    tweeder, can you post a picture of it? I get the impression this is going to be one of those, "Ahh... THAT'S what's wrong!" moments, if we can just see the assembly.
    Boring conversation anyway...

  6. #6

    Default

    When I upgraded a few old sabers with the new style blade holders and heat sinks, I ran into a a similar phenomena.

    How much "extra" wire do you have in your hilt? I'm only asking because if you have too much in a section, the wire can "push" the heat sink up farther kinda like a spring, and the blade holder won't fully sit down. If that is the case, I'd start unscrewing all sections then start with the blade holder and the heat sink itself without anything else attached. If it does fit flush slowly add the middle and end sections.

    Just showing an idea of what I've experienced.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •