Pin schematic for removable blade fx.

[zool]

Greetings everyone.

I've searched and found many nice schematics for the circuit boards of the hasbro removable blade sabers,
but I was wondering if anyone that has disassembled it perhaps had a pinout diagram for the connector.

Ordered one of these the other day and have a small project in mind for it that I'd like to prepare while I wait for the
package to arrive, and to be honest I'd prefer not having to take the blade itself apart if I don't have to.

Also, if anyone has the V's and A's going through them while lit up that'd be a great help.

As for why I need it, well... I'd like to build a "blade plug" sort of thing with small smd led's inside to make the thing a nice display piece without the actual blade attached using the
connector already there so I could have the plug attached while it's on display and swap in the blade for playtime :P

/ Zool

[Jabbas_reluctant_slave]

Maybe a silly question, but why dont you just convert the saber and use one of the blade plugs sold here, seems like that would do the trick and you would be able to duel with it (the stock blade is not duel worthy). Unless Im missing something from your question this seems to be the best (practical and easy) way to achieve what your trying to do, not to mention the fact you would end up with a brighter and more evenly lit blade.

[zool]

I'm planning on converting one of the two I ordered, the project is just for fun and I wanna see how well it could turn out.
And also there's no kit done for the luke saber yet from what I could find..

[Jabbas_reluctant_slave]

I see, I see. Well then I'm sorry but I can be of no help to you, but good luck. Someone here may know more than I do (HUGE UNDERSTATMENT) and be able to help you out.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Well, the only thing I can think of is to follow the wires back from the interface pins to the board and see what they are connected to. You may have to remove the the hot glue covering them where they attach to the board. The pads on the sound board itself are labelled what they are for directly on the board.

[grayven]

Off the Kit fisto the pin out is. White wire is Impact (imp), Grey is Ground (GND1), Brown Is Positive 1 (L1), Red Is Positive 2 (L2), Orange is positive 3 (L3), Yellow is positive 4 (L4), Green is Positive 5 (L5), Blue is Positive 6 (L6) and present is Purple (Pre). Now that's off the board, Off the blade pin base connector it's going to be hard to give exact because it's 8 pads in a complete circle with one in the center. So I have no way to tell you where to start on the circle. However here is the gist. The center is the Ground. The order in the circumference is Imp, Pre, L1, L2, L3, L4, L5, L6 and back to Imp. Hope that helps.

Gravy

[zool]

Thank you all kindly for your help.

[Rafalema]

Saying that a converted saber WILL have a more "even" blade is false.
Even with the best diffusers out there, it will never be as even as an LED ladder. It can be close, but it can't be more even.

[Jabbas_reluctant_slave]

Saying that a converted saber WILL have a more "even" blade is false.
Even with the best diffusers out there, it will never be as even as an LED ladder. It can be close, but it can't be more even.

Maybe "even" wasn't the right word. I was refering to the little dark spots that tend to show up in the Hasbro blades, but you're right it's not really more even as it will always be a little brighter towards the bottom of the blade with a single led.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Maybe "even" wasn't the right word. I was refering to the little dark spots that tend to show up in the Hasbro blades, but you're right it's not really more even as it will always be a little brighter towards the bottom of the blade with a single led.

Also referred to as the "corn-on-the-cob-effect."

If it helps, here's a picture from the Anakin ROTS removable blade tutorial I posted a while ago:

The wires are as follows: Brown, Red, Orange, Yellow, Green and Blue are the positive leas for the main led. The gray wire is the ground for the blade, the clash sensor, and the "PRE" circuit. The white wire is the positive for the clash sensor. Purple is the "PRE" positive that prevents the board from activating unless the blade is inserted.

With the wires removed: