Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15

Thread: Electronics Parts List for first saber.

  1. #1

    Default Electronics Parts List for first saber.

    Hey there everyone. I'm planning on finally putting good ole' electronics in my saber this summer. But before I start on anything, or even order anything, I wanted to check to see if the parts I want to use will work together and make sure I'm not missing anything.

    Here's the list: Please let me know if I'm for forgetting anything
    -Reber Star LED & MHS heatsink module (Blue or white)
    -PC V2.0 soundcard
    -2w bass speaker
    -speaker holder v4
    -2AA battery holder for 2 lithium ion batteries
    -16mm nickel plated momentary AV switch (non-LED)
    -JST connectors
    -Dual 18 gauge wire
    -Various chassis parts to hold everything together.

    And if anyone is interested, here's the thread of the hilt's construction. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ghlight=solais
    Thanks again in advance for any input you can offer!
    Last edited by CGompertz09; 04-07-2012 at 10:01 AM.
    H - "Your shelter is secure, is it?"
    M - "Of course it is! See for yourself just how powerless you are!"
    H - "Roger that."
    M - O_O

  2. #2

    Default

    Ooh, they make monetary switches now? Does that let your saber work as an ATM? I kid, I kid...

    Yeah, you'll need a lens, thermal tape (for connecting the LED star to the heat-sink), and a second switch (PC requires two: one for activation, the other for triggering sounds). That's just off the top of my head.

    One thing that I strongly urge you to reconsider is the 18 gauge wire. Most people on here use between 24 and 30 gauge to wire up a PC saber. I've got 28 gauge in mine, and everything works fine. Also, is there a reason you're using the 2AA battery holder with lithiums, instead of just using a battery pack and recharge port? The latter setup is much more convenient, and you don't have to take your saber apart to put batteries in/ take them out.

    Also, it looks like you tried to put a link to your saber's construction, but there's no link there.

  3. #3

    Default

    First off, I edited my spelling mistakes and added the link that I forgot. Thanks for catching those. haha.
    And now on your suggestions. I chose the 2AA pack because 1. I don't know too much about wiring up the recharge port and 2. I'm not sure I like the idea of leaving Lithium Ion batteries sitting in something while they're charged. (I've just heard bad stories). Thanks for the tip on the wire gauge, that was something I was honestly guessing on. Lastely, is an aux switch absolutely needed? I know it will trigger the blaster and lockup sounds, but since I will have enough trouble drilling a hole for the main switch with my lack of drill press, I'd be able to live without those two sounds for less work. haha

    Edit: Also, with using regular trustfire lith-ion cells instead of a pack, I could keep extra's charged and ready anytime the ones in the saber die.
    Last edited by CGompertz09; 04-07-2012 at 10:44 AM.
    H - "Your shelter is secure, is it?"
    M - "Of course it is! See for yourself just how powerless you are!"
    H - "Roger that."
    M - O_O

  4. #4

    Default

    Normally I don't point out people's spelling mistakes, but yours amused me.

    Fair enough answer on the lithium batteries. As for running the PC without a second switch... man, I honestly don't know. Looking at the wiring schematics in the manual, it *seems* like you could bypass it, but I've never heard of anyone doing so. If I may speak my mind, it seems like a waste to spend that much on a saber hilt and soundboard, and not take full advantage of everything it offers (I was actually going to recommend a RICE port in my earlier response, but wanted to see your hilt first).

    But hey, it's your saber and your design. Looks good!
    Boring conversation anyway...

  5. #5

    Default

    Thanks for the input. And I know what you mean by it seems like a waste. But i think i came up with an idea. Possibly set it up the way i planned, and if it turns out that it will not work without the aux switch, then I will add it. But I'll cross that bridge when i get to it.

    Aside from those details, does the set up I planned out seem like it will work fine without any additions?
    H - "Your shelter is secure, is it?"
    M - "Of course it is! See for yourself just how powerless you are!"
    H - "Roger that."
    M - O_O

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CGompertz09 View Post
    Thanks for the input. And I know what you mean by it seems like a waste. But i think i came up with an idea. Possibly set it up the way i planned, and if it turns out that it will not work without the aux switch, then I will add it. But I'll cross that bridge when i get to it.

    Aside from those details, does the set up I planned out seem like it will work fine without any additions?
    It WILL function without an aux button. It will function without the RICE port. It's just that you'll be passing up on functionality that is supported. You won't be able to trigger clashing or blaster blocking sounds(as you've already acknowledged) but also don't enable APOP as that DOES require aux switch. Without the RICE port you will need to remove the card and manually edit the configuration file to configure the board. You would also need a micro SD reader/writer to do that.


    Wiring both a recharge port and rice port are trivial compared to wiring the card itself. If you can do that you can handle the ports.

    Li-ions are as safe as you make them. Don't abuse them and you're fine. Even li-po batt hazards... Sure it could happen but those are in millions of android and iPhone devices and the vast majority of them somehow manage to not explode. Not even mine that I've dropped a few times.
    The lightsaber hilt is capable of producing a blade of pure energy. The lightsaber hilt has proven to be completely safe. The saber blade however has not. Do not touch the operational end of the saber blade. Do not look directly at the operational end of the saber blade. Do not immerse the saber blade into your flesh, not even partially.

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TuxedoCartman View Post
    ...you'll need a lens, thermal tape (for connecting the LED star to the heat-sink)...
    I see the original post has been edited since then, but you won't need those since you're getting the LED and heatsink module. It's all preassembled.

    Since you're going with li-ions, I'd highly recommend getting a prebuilt pack if you're not comfortable making your own. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/74...Pack-P698.aspx will work really well, and you won't have the issue of the batteries popping loose during combat.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  8. #8
    Council Member
    Jedi Master
    Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,576

    Default

    It looks like it has been addressed, but yes, you can use a PC without the aux button. Kevin Starwaster summed it up pretty well.

    I'm currently doing a saber like this myself. How often do you really use the blaster block or lockup in any meaningful way? For the sake of simplicity and the aesthetics of this saber I'm planning, I'm just going with a single button.
    Last edited by Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie; 04-07-2012 at 10:53 PM.


  9. #9

    Default

    I kind of have the same thoughts on the blaster sounds. haha.

    For the setup I have listed, am I going to need a resister at all?
    H - "Your shelter is secure, is it?"
    M - "Of course it is! See for yourself just how powerless you are!"
    H - "Roger that."
    M - O_O

  10. #10
    Council Member
    Jedi Master
    Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,576

    Default

    If you are using a PC, you won't need a resistor for the main LED. The PC has a built in driver for it. You control the current going to the LED in the configuration settings.

    You may need small resistors on any accent LEDs that you use. I see that you don't have any listed, and there isn't one in your switch, so if that's the case, you're shiny.


Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •