Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 2 3 4
Results 31 to 36 of 36

Thread: 2010 Hasbro Anakin Removable Blade Version - Done & kits available

  1. #31

    Default

    No, you cannot switch the sounds on these sound boards. The boards are also different from the Master replicas versions.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  2. #32

    Default

    I tried to convert mine as well but in the end I have no more sound. The LED works fine but the sound is just gone. Any ideas?

  3. #33

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jay-gon Jinn View Post
    This tutorial will show you how to use the store's conversion kit for your removable blade version of the Hasbro Signature Series FX lightsaber using the kit available in the store. It will convert the saber to a single, in-the-hilt-led syle which will allow for a brighter blade than stock. The scrolling blade extension/retraction effect will be lost if you do this, so keep that in mind.

    Parts list:
    Hasbro Anakin Skywalker Signature Series FX lightsaber
    TCSS Conversion kit for this saber - BE CERTAIN YOU BUY THE CORRECT KIT!!! THE MR KIT WILL NOT FIT THIS HILT!!!
    Lens*
    Lens holder*
    Luxeon Rebel or Seoul P4 led
    Thermal adhesive pad
    Replacement clash sensor

    *type of lens and holder will depend upon your led selection. Make sure you get the correct lens and holder for your led choice.

    The saber in stock form:




    Begin by removing the blade retention screw:




    Next, remove the small phillips head screws securing the base ring:




    Lift off the base ring and set aside. Do not lose the screws! These will be reused later.

    Rotate the saber and remove the large copper cap:

    I find it sometimes helps to heat this with a hair dryer to loosen the glue holding it in place. Pry it loose very carefully with a small precision flat bladed screw driver:


    Carefully work the copper cap from both sides to avoid damage:


    When removed, you will see one small phillips head screw. Remove it, and retain it for later:




    Lift off the plastic base plate:


    Next, you will need to remove the hex head screw just in front of the copper cap:



    WARNING: This is a "safety" type screw, meaning there is a "post" in the center of the hex key hole to prevent removal. If you do not have a safety type Allen wrench, a standard type can be used to remove the screw, but it will be difficult, and you may damage the screw. IF you happen to damage this screw, don't worry, the replacement blade socket in the kit accepts 10-32 screws, so a 10-32 button head cap screw will work just fine instead.

    Once you have that screw removed, you will need to remove the gold pins in the "recharge sockets":


    A pair of small needle nose pliers works for this step. Just pull the pins with a steady and straight pressure, they should come right out:


    Now you will need to remove the control box:

    This is another situation where a hair dryer may help you prevent damage to the parts. Heat it up towhere it is simply warm to the touch, then carefully, gently pry the gold plate starting at one end:

    Once it starts to come free, move to the other end:

    You should then be able to get it free far enough to pry in the center, and remove it.

    There are two screws holding the control box in place:


    Once you have those out, lift the control box from the clamp ring:


    You will find two blue wires coming from the activation switch:

    DO NOT CUT THEM, unless you want to have to re-solder them later. The easiest way to remove the switch box is to simply remove the screw holding the switch in place:




    Once the switch is loose from the control box, it can then be pushed into the hilt through the hole:




    If you have not done so already, remove the pommel cap and remove the battery pack:


    Remove the stock plastic blade socket:




    Using the handle of a screw driver, push the soundboard housing out the front (emitter end) of the hilt:








    Using a pair of diagonal cutting pliers, crack open the housing:

    The seam along the side of the housing should split. Do both sides, then lift off the top.

    Cut the blade interface pin housing off:


    Separate the wires on the board:

    The wires are as follows: Brown, Red, Orange, Yellow, Green and Blue are the positive leas for the main led. These can be bundled together and will go to the main blade led's positive pad, or simply removed from the board altogether and replaced with a single wire. This tutorial will cover removing them entirely. The violet and gray wires are the blade cut-off switch. These will need to be connected to each other later, and do not need to be removed, but it may be easier to do so if you choose to follow that route. The white wire is the negative for the clash sensor. If you did not order a replacement sensor, de-solder and remove the stock one from the blade connection housing on the blade. There are two screws securing the sound board to the housing, remove those to allow you to remove the sound board. This will make it easier to re-wire the board.

    Remove the board from the housing, de-solder and remove the wires from the board. Clean the pads off using a de-solder wick, or copper braid.

    With the board removed, add a jumper across the positive pads:




    A piece of wire from a resistor work well for bridging the pads:


    Once the pads are bridged, cut off the excess using the cutting pliers or a hobby knife. Then solder another jumper across the other three pads, and connect the two pieces of jumper:

    Now you can add the clash sensor back on to the board directly:

    The clash sensor should fit right into the hole the white wire came from, and the negative pad for the led string (where the gray came from). Bend the tabs to fit into the holes marked "IMP" and "GND1":

    Solder it in place by soldering to the underside of the pads, but wait to solder the thin wire until you complete the next step.

    Next, add the gray wire to the hole with the thin wire from the clash sensor:


    Then the purple to the pad labelled "PRE":


    Add the positive for your main led on any of the pads labelled "Lx":


    Now bundle the grey and purple wires together:


    Now is a good time to assemble the new led. Start by soldering a short length of wire to one negative and one positive pad on the led as shown below:

    Attach the led to the copper heatsink using the thermal adhesive pad.

    Snap the lens into the lens holder:


    Fit the lens on top of the led:


    Screw the led/heatsink/lens assembly into the new blade holder:



    Do not over tighten. you can damage the lens if you do. You should now see the lens in the blade socket:


    With the led assembled into the blade socket, check your wire lengths:


    Add the negative for the main blade led, add some heatshrink to the wires, then make the connections to the blade led:




    Add your battery pack and test:

    Success!

    Now shrink the heatsink wrap:


    Re-attach the sound board to the housing, then add the cover:

    A piece of clear packing tape works great for securing the top of the housing.

    Re-assembly can now begin!

    Start by sliding the housing back into the hilt:


    Make sure the housing lines up properly with all of the mounting holes in the hilt and the clamp ring:


    Make sure the blade socket is in properly and aligned, then re-insert the original blade socket retention screw:






    Pull the switch out using tweezers or small needle nose pliers:


    Re-install the switch in the control box:

    Then re-install the control box and the gold plate. hot glue works for re-attaching the gold plate.

    Re-install the blade retention screw base plate:




    Re-install the copper button plate:




    Re-install the copper button:


    Re-insert the battery pack:




    Activate the saber:

    Now turn it off, and re-install the blade retention screw, then look into the emitter socket and using a sharpie marker, mark off the screw:


    The screw will need to be shortened:



    Tape it off to protect the finish.

    Put the thumbscrew into a vise and cut off the excess screw length using a Dremel and a cut-off wheel:



    Be careful not to remove too much....you can always take off more material, but you can't put any back on!

    Check the fit:








    If it looks good, insert the blade and tighten. Turn the saber on and check out your new, brighter, duel-worthy 2010 Anakin Skywalker Hasbro Signature Series FX:



    Is this the same process as the 05 ROTS Anakin?

    Mine arrives today and will be converting it during this month so I really need to know as the 05 Anakin thread is useless and most of the images don't show...
    "Our time has come. For 300 years, we prepared. We grew stronger. While you rested in your cradle of power, believing your people were safe... and protected. You were trusted to lead the Republicóbut you were deceived, as our powers of the dark side have blinded you. You assumed no force could challenge you...and now...finally...we have returned. You were deceived. And now, your Republic shall fall!"

  4. #34

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jay-gon Jinn View Post
    There's a separate kit and tutorial for the fixed bladed version here:http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...kits-available
    No there isn't.

    The images don't show so you can't follow!
    "Our time has come. For 300 years, we prepared. We grew stronger. While you rested in your cradle of power, believing your people were safe... and protected. You were trusted to lead the Republicóbut you were deceived, as our powers of the dark side have blinded you. You assumed no force could challenge you...and now...finally...we have returned. You were deceived. And now, your Republic shall fall!"

  5. #35

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Dreagon View Post
    No there isn't.

    The images don't show so you can't follow!
    When I posted that link to the other tutorial, the pictures were still visible...not my fault photo bucket changed their plans and no longer allow third party hosting for free accounts.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  6. #36

    Default

    The Anakin is one of the easiest to convert.

    This video shows some details. The music is annoying. All of the soundboards are the same with wiring.
    https://youtu.be/8E8_bTYTTUU

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •