Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 36

Thread: 2010 Hasbro Anakin Removable Blade Version - Done & kits available

  1. #1

    Default 2010 Hasbro Anakin Removable Blade Version - Done & kits available

    This tutorial will show you how to use the store's conversion kit for your removable blade version of the Hasbro Signature Series FX lightsaber using the kit available in the store. It will convert the saber to a single, in-the-hilt-led syle which will allow for a brighter blade than stock. The scrolling blade extension/retraction effect will be lost if you do this, so keep that in mind.

    Parts list:
    Hasbro Anakin Skywalker Signature Series FX lightsaber
    Lens holder*
    Luxeon Rebel or Seoul P4 led
    Thermal adhesive pad
    Replacement clash sensor

    *type of lens and holder will depend upon your led selection. Make sure you get the correct lens and holder for your led choice.

    The saber in stock form:

    Begin by removing the blade retention screw:

    Next, remove the small phillips head screws securing the base ring:

    Lift off the base ring and set aside. Do not lose the screws! These will be reused later.

    Rotate the saber and remove the large copper cap:

    I find it sometimes helps to heat this with a hair dryer to loosen the glue holding it in place. Pry it loose very carefully with a small precision flat bladed screw driver:

    Carefully work the copper cap from both sides to avoid damage:

    When removed, you will see one small phillips head screw. Remove it, and retain it for later:

    Lift off the plastic base plate:

    Next, you will need to remove the hex head screw just in front of the copper cap:

    WARNING: This is a "safety" type screw, meaning there is a "post" in the center of the hex key hole to prevent removal. If you do not have a safety type Allen wrench, a standard type can be used to remove the screw, but it will be difficult, and you may damage the screw. IF you happen to damage this screw, don't worry, the replacement blade socket in the kit accepts 10-32 screws, so a 10-32 button head cap screw will work just fine instead.

    Once you have that screw removed, you will need to remove the gold pins in the "recharge sockets":

    A pair of small needle nose pliers works for this step. Just pull the pins with a steady and straight pressure, they should come right out:

    Now you will need to remove the control box:

    This is another situation where a hair dryer may help you prevent damage to the parts. Heat it up towhere it is simply warm to the touch, then carefully, gently pry the gold plate starting at one end:

    Once it starts to come free, move to the other end:

    You should then be able to get it free far enough to pry in the center, and remove it.

    There are two screws holding the control box in place:

    Once you have those out, lift the control box from the clamp ring:

    You will find two blue wires coming from the activation switch:

    DO NOT CUT THEM, unless you want to have to re-solder them later. The easiest way to remove the switch box is to simply remove the screw holding the switch in place:

    Once the switch is loose from the control box, it can then be pushed into the hilt through the hole:

    If you have not done so already, remove the pommel cap and remove the battery pack:

    Remove the stock plastic blade socket:

    Using the handle of a screw driver, push the soundboard housing out the front (emitter end) of the hilt:

    Using a pair of diagonal cutting pliers, crack open the housing:

    The seam along the side of the housing should split. Do both sides, then lift off the top.

    Cut the blade interface pin housing off:

    Separate the wires on the board:

    The wires are as follows: Brown, Red, Orange, Yellow, Green and Blue are the positive leas for the main led. These can be bundled together and will go to the main blade led's positive pad, or simply removed from the board altogether and replaced with a single wire. This tutorial will cover removing them entirely. The violet and gray wires are the blade cut-off switch. These will need to be connected to each other later, and do not need to be removed, but it may be easier to do so if you choose to follow that route. The white wire is the negative for the clash sensor. If you did not order a replacement sensor, de-solder and remove the stock one from the blade connection housing on the blade. There are two screws securing the sound board to the housing, remove those to allow you to remove the sound board. This will make it easier to re-wire the board.

    Remove the board from the housing, de-solder and remove the wires from the board. Clean the pads off using a de-solder wick, or copper braid.

    With the board removed, add a jumper across the positive pads:

    A piece of wire from a resistor work well for bridging the pads:

    Once the pads are bridged, cut off the excess using the cutting pliers or a hobby knife. Then solder another jumper across the other three pads, and connect the two pieces of jumper:

    Now you can add the clash sensor back on to the board directly:

    The clash sensor should fit right into the hole the white wire came from, and the negative pad for the led string (where the gray came from). Bend the tabs to fit into the holes marked "IMP" and "GND1":

    Solder it in place by soldering to the underside of the pads, but wait to solder the thin wire until you complete the next step.

    Next, add the gray wire to the hole with the thin wire from the clash sensor:

    Then the purple to the pad labelled "PRE":

    Add the positive for your main led on any of the pads labelled "Lx":

    Now bundle the grey and purple wires together:

    Now is a good time to assemble the new led. Start by soldering a short length of wire to one negative and one positive pad on the led as shown below:

    Attach the led to the copper heatsink using the thermal adhesive pad.

    Snap the lens into the lens holder:

    Fit the lens on top of the led:

    Screw the led/heatsink/lens assembly into the new blade holder:

    Do not over tighten. you can damage the lens if you do. You should now see the lens in the blade socket:

    With the led assembled into the blade socket, check your wire lengths:

    Add the negative for the main blade led, add some heatshrink to the wires, then make the connections to the blade led:

    Add your battery pack and test:


    Now shrink the heatsink wrap:

    Re-attach the sound board to the housing, then add the cover:

    A piece of clear packing tape works great for securing the top of the housing.

    Re-assembly can now begin!

    Start by sliding the housing back into the hilt:

    Make sure the housing lines up properly with all of the mounting holes in the hilt and the clamp ring:

    Make sure the blade socket is in properly and aligned, then re-insert the original blade socket retention screw:

    Pull the switch out using tweezers or small needle nose pliers:

    Re-install the switch in the control box:

    Then re-install the control box and the gold plate. hot glue works for re-attaching the gold plate.

    Re-install the blade retention screw base plate:

    Re-install the copper button plate:

    Re-install the copper button:

    Re-insert the battery pack:

    Activate the saber:

    Now turn it off, and re-install the blade retention screw, then look into the emitter socket and using a sharpie marker, mark off the screw:

    The screw will need to be shortened:

    Tape it off to protect the finish.

    Put the thumbscrew into a vise and cut off the excess screw length using a Dremel and a cut-off wheel:

    Be careful not to remove too can always take off more material, but you can't put any back on!

    Check the fit:

    If it looks good, insert the blade and tighten. Turn the saber on and check out your new, brighter, duel-worthy 2010 Anakin Skywalker Hasbro Signature Series FX:

    Last edited by Jay-gon Jinn; 04-06-2012 at 06:32 PM.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  2. #2


    Great tutorial, thank you. One question: I'm transplanting this board into a custom saber, and am not sure how to wire the power and speaker. I bought it free-standing, so I can't reverse engineer it from the original hilt.

    There are three contacts, Vss, Vdd, and SP-. How should these draw from the battery pack, and how does the speaker fit into this?

    Sorry for the basic question, but I have a talent for frying electronics when I experiment too much.

  3. #3


    Sorry for the late reply, but the board uses a shared positive in the battery pack for the speaker. You will need to add a separate positive lead to the board for the speaker for use in a custom saber, or use a second lead from your positive battery terminal on the battery pack or recharge port.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  4. #4


    This is a great step by step! I'm about to do my friend's saber, and about to order the parts. Is there any way to wire a luxeon tri-rebel star into this system keeping the stock sound card and power supply? ( he's changing his color to red but i'm worried that brightness will be an issue, he thinks his saber is going to be as bright as my saberforge with a 10w x-2 LED in it, despite numerous warnings it wouldn't be.)

  5. #5


    Does the blade plug that you get with the lightsaber still function after the conversion?

  6. #6

    Default Anakin conversion

    If you totally hosed up your copper button plate is there a replacement part that can be ordered?

  7. #7


    Not sure about copper but there is a gold button replacement part at ultrasabers.

  8. #8


    I understand that filmwise, Luke's ANH saber was Anakin's ROTS saber that Obi-wan hung onto and maintained over the years... with that said: will this kit work for Luke's ANH with the removable blade?
    Born July7, 2013 - Sentenced to die on October14, 2013
    Rest in peace my classy friend.

  9. #9


    No, there are no kits in the store that will directly fit the Luke ANH FX. It is a totally different hilt from the others even thigh they may look similar and are supposed to all be the same lightsaber.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  10. #10


    Is the thumb screw(after being cut) still used to keep the blade in place (secure)?


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts