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Thread: Want to move from emitter 10 to emitter 7...

  1. #1

    Question Want to move from emitter 10 to emitter 7...

    Hi folks,
    I have a Catalyst from Ultrasaber, which uses TCSS parts. The emitter looks very similar to type 10 here, though I am not sure that it's exactly the same internally (asking the experts here). Now, I'd like to switch to number 7, because 10 doesn't hold the blade well enough for sustained dueling, in my opinion. Is there any specific point that I have to consider (I am not sure what the business with the adapter that is mentioned in the page for emitters 7 and 10 here is about), or can I simply swap them?
    Thanks for any advice you have to offer.
    Andrea,
    from Italy

  2. #2

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    It is my understanding that Ultrasabers doesn't actually use TCSS parts, but makes the parts themselves (without TCSS permission).

    However, if the threading on your US saber parts matches the TCSS parts, then you should be able to swap them out without any trouble. You'll likely need the new heat sink, and you'll have to move the LED (or get a new one).
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

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  3. #3

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    Thanks for your answer.
    I believe that threading matches, that is not a concern.
    However, I am not sure I understand the part about the heat sink... The heat sink is in the choke, so why should I change it? The only part connected to the emitter is the lens, which is hot-glued to the bottom of the emitter. Actually, that's the one concern I have, because the bottom of the inside part of the emitter seems a bit different. I will try and post a few pictures later on (at work now) but can you please clarify the part about the heat sink?
    Andrea

  4. #4

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    TCSS bladeholders use a heat sink module designed to hold the LED and lens assembly in the proper position for illuminating the blade. Hot glue is unnecessary with these parts. The only adhesive material you should need is the thermal tape pad for attaching the LED to the copper piece of the heat sink.

    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MH...Sink-P622.aspx
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/St...-pad-P483.aspx
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  5. #5

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    I'll take a picture of mine, but I think I have this one:

    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Co...sink-P234.aspx

    the lens is not connected to the heat sink, but rather hot-glued to the emitter, which has an internal (smaller) flange that I don't see in the TCSS one. I'll post a picture when I get home.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ander View Post
    I'll take a picture of mine, but I think I have this one:

    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Co...sink-P234.aspx

    the lens is not connected to the heat sink, but rather hot-glued to the emitter, which has an internal (smaller) flange that I don't see in the TCSS one. I'll post a picture when I get home.
    Re: LED & lens, the new type heat sink & module here have a tight enough fit that they can hold the lens in place without gluing. YMMV but I have the LEDEngin 10W and I also bought the lens holder but ended up not using it. Just placed the lens over the LED and carefully tightened it until it was firm. It's in two parts, the actual copper heat sink and an aluminum 'sleeve' that is a little flanged up top. That flange is what the blade rests against and what keeps the lens in place. You also want to get a set screw and drill the blade holder as there's no hole for the screw. (on that last, what holds the blade in place in your current setup?)
    The lightsaber hilt is capable of producing a blade of pure energy. The lightsaber hilt has proven to be completely safe. The saber blade however has not. Do not touch the operational end of the saber blade. Do not look directly at the operational end of the saber blade. Do not immerse the saber blade into your flesh, not even partially.

  7. #7

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    In the current setup, there is a single screw holding the blade, which is not optimal (I also tape the blade). I aim to have two in the new emitter.
    However, I might have misdescribed my intentions: I am merely trying to see whether I can change emitter without changing heatsink / led module / etc ; US's website suggests that the part is MHS compatible and a forumist suggested I should be able to simply swap the two receivers, but I have my doubts regarding the flange I mentioned. I will be at home in an hour and post a picture to explain what I mean.
    You know, home for me is in Italy, so it's a bit unpractical to place an order without making sure I can then actually use the part I want

  8. #8

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    OK, here goes nothing: at https://picasaweb.google.com/1018581...eat=directlink you can see the pictures of the emitter, both with and without lens (not glued here) and from both sides. What I'd like to know is whether it's the same as type 10 here, and if I can swap it with type 7 without having to change hotsink.
    Thanks for any advice you may offer.
    Regards
    Andrea,
    from Italy

  9. #9

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    As you can see in the last picture, there are actually two flanges in the bottom of the emitter; the first one is at a depth of a bit more than 1/4 inch from the bottom and appears to be about 1/16 wide; the second one is at double the depth, and appears to be around 1/8 wide; the lens rests against this second flange. I don't see these two flanges in the TCSS part. Am I correct or wrong?

    https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

  10. #10
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    Ah...much clearer now..

    Interesting, they still use reflectors even on MHS style setups. Anyhow, what you have there is the older style of MHS heatsink. It isn't directly compatible with new MHS emitters without an adapter, which is sold in the store: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ol...pter-P628.aspx

    Get that, and any blade holder you want, and you'll be good to go. Though, for better performance, I would recommend getting an actual optic lens to replace that reflector.

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