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Thread: vader sound board not working.

  1. #11

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    the silver stuff is just duct tape, cause i couldnt find my heatshrink, but ill take the stuff off and see if it works now

    EDIT- its not working still


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  2. #12
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    His original diagram was correct. There is a speaker wire and it splits the positive. Everything looks to be fine... other than the metric ton of solder and hotglue. You really need to switch to 4.5V or 4.8V (rechargeables) though. Keeping it close to the original will drive the green perfectly.

    God... I need to make a soldering tutorial or at least pictures of good soldering. You all look like you solder with a torch and use a whole coil of wire for one saber.[:0]

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  3. #13
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    If that's the way you have it wired, there must be a bad connection. According to this diagram (pardon the grafiti) you have it correct.



    I'm wondering if there isn't a bad connection under that glob of Hot Glue...

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  4. #14
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    <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">the silver stuff is just duct tape, cause i couldnt find my heatshrink, but ill take the stuff off and see if it works now<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

    duct tape leaves a mess when you take it off, why didn't you just use electricle tape CD?

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  5. #15
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    <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by xwingband

    God... I need to make a soldering tutorial or at least pictures of good soldering. You all look like you solder with a torch and use a whole coil of wire for one saber.[:0]<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">


    I did. Not that I think my soldering is anything to brag about, but Do-Clo was supposed to get some photos of his Solder Joints up for the tutorial.

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  6. #16
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    Yours were fine for what they were showing but there's solder all the way over the wire... I can't imagine being able to do that without bubbling the wire from keeping the iron there too long.[:0]

    More is not always better and I think a lot need better irons. You would be able to pull that off if your iron was really hot. It'd only take a touch to get enough solder.

    I'm afraid he fried something with that much glue. I think it's borked.[xx(] Moderation with all things hot! Glue and Solder.

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  7. #17
    Jedi Council Member Firebird21's Avatar
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    <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by xwingband

    I think a lot need better irons. You would be able to pull that off if your iron was really hot. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

    Yes I agree!


    My Iron is a POS-9000.

    That's one of the reasons I've been tinning the wire first. It just works better for me than sitting there trying to heat up twice the wire with 1/2 the heat.[xx(]

    Again, I do not proclaim to know what I'm doing when it comes to soldering, but I do have a working knowledge, and it works well for me.


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  8. #18

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    My problem isn't too much solder, I use way too much wire. It can be a mess when you have long wires all tangled in the hilt.

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    i have the same iron that tim sells here, no clue if it is a good one but it works []

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  10. #20

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    Count, check your pm's.

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