First MHS build, a few questions...

[Data]

Hi guys. Newbie builder here. I read through all the stickies in the "Start Here" forum and still had a few questions. Maybe I can get some of them answered here before I start bugging the store owners.

1. Do I need nylon screws if I order the Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module?
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Re...dule-P653.aspx


2. I really want to use the 16mm Anti Vandal Latching Blue Ring Switch in my build, but I'm confused about exactly which mounting hardware I can use for my MHS grip. Currently I have the 7" Double female threaded connector setup in the builder as my "main body". I'd like to mount the switch in Activation box style 10. Is that particular box tall enough for the lighted AV switch? The sample photo shows one mounted in this box, but there's no inside tube shot to show the clearances. I know the switch is "tall" but I want to make sure I get this part right. I especially don't want to use box style 4 if I don't have to!
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/16...itch-P435.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/7-...ctor-P126.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ac...e-10-P634.aspx


3. How do I request custom work on MHS Sleeve 1? I'd like to have this sleeve drilled and tapped (x6) for mounting on my 7" tube, with proper clearance for the switch box, and then powder coated (I assume that's the correct order). I don't see links for any of that in the Services area.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MH...ve-1-P455.aspx


4. Which powder coating most closely matches the black anodizing used on trim rings?
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Trim-Ring-3-P533.aspx


5. Is the 8-32 x 3/8" Set Screw sufficient for blade retention on the MHS blade holder style 4? There are no dimensions listed for this blade holder.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-...rew--P507.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Sc...tyle-P247.aspx



-- My current parts list --
Grip: 7" Double female threaded connector
Choke: MHS choke style 1
Emitter: Screw on LED blade holder style 4 "new style"
Pommel: MPS Pommel style 3 v1
- MPS insert style 12
- MPS Clip
Grip Accent: MHS Sleeve 1
- Trim Ring 3 (Black)
Controls: Activation box style 10
- 16mm Anti Vandal Latching Blue Ring Switch
- Red LED indicator
LED Module: Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module
Small Parts: 8-32 x 3/8" Set Screw (Qty 2) (Blade Retention)
- 4-40 Button Head (Qty 1) (Activation Box)
- 8-32 x 3/8" button head screw (Qty 6) (MHS Sleeve Mounting)

Services: Drill, tap, & countersink (slightly) 6 holes in the MHS Sleeve and 7" connector (to match), using 8-32 threading
- Drill & tap one 8-32 hole in blade holder for blade retention, preferably in an inconspicuous location
- Box 9 and 10 Mounting holes service
- Powder coat MHS Sleeve black for a close match to anodized Trim Ring 3


This covers the "outside stuff" on the saber. I'll go ahead and mount the LED module for fitment. Once I'm satisfied with the completed outside, I'll buy a blade and configure a chassis for the electronics and battery -- I'm still a little overwhelmed by all that stuff.

Here's the basic layout of my hilt, or how I planned it anyway:
I don't think I can post images yet, so here's a link.

I'm missing some screws and the trim ring, but there aren't any options for that in the saber builder.

Thanks for reading, and sorry for the long post. I'm really looking forward to this project!

[Tahm]

Well Data let me start by saying welcome to the forums.

1- "For use in the MHS system please order a Heat Sink shim as well unless the 'new style' blade holder is available which do not need shims." Since this kit uses the new heatsink. You DON'T need a shim (this is assuming you get a new style BH which is most likely the case). http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Lu...Star-P523.aspx

2-Use this http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/16...itch-P616.aspx not this http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/16...itch-P433.aspx. and you should be ok.

3-This is going to be multiple services, lots of these http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Dr...Hole-P193.aspx, Every part you want powder coated will need it's own one these http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ad...ting-P576.aspx
and this will likely cover whatever else you want http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Cu...fee--P194.aspx (be sure to talk with Tim to make sure he can do what you want and to get a price quote that you can add to your order [pictures will help a lot here]).

4- Based on the images I would say the Matte Black Tuscan (but this is a matter of opinion), You can also ask Tim if powder coating is available on the trim rings (which I don't think would be a problem).

5-Retention screws are simply there to apply pressure to the blade, so I don't see why not (IMO retention screw location tends to be more important than the kind of screw used) just don't go too small . BTW are you planning on using two retention screws or did I read that wrong (one is sufficient in most cases)?

BTW I couldn't see your image.

[Silver Serpent]

1. Nylon screws aren't needed with the new style heat sinks. The premade modules are all using the new style, so you're fine without the screws.

2. That box is tall enough, just barely. You can get the shorter AV switch that Tahm recommended so you have more room.

3. Yep, multiple services. Send an email to the shop letting him know exactly what you want done. Once the two of you have settled on everything, you'll be free to place that order.

4. The anodized rings are shiny, I'd go with either the Wet Black, or probably the Black Chrome. You're not going to get an exact match. Powder coating the rings will make them difficult to slide in place. They're already pretty snug without a layer of PC in the way.

5. Yes, that one will work. It may be a touch long, but they're easy enough to file down.

[Data]

Thanks for the quick responses guys. I really appreciate it.

Not sure why my image isn't working. I updated .htaccess to allow referrals from *thecustomsabershop.com, so it should be showing. It works if you copy & paste. Oh well.

[Data]

When should I expect to hear back from Tim? I'd like to hurry up and give him my money, but I don't want to be a nuisance.

[Ka'getsu]

Tim is usually pretty good at geting back to people quickly, so you can expect a response within a day or two

[Data]

Well maybe I'm doing it wrong. I used the web form on the Contact Us page from the shop site. Is there a better method to request custom machining and powder coating?

Edit: He replied about 40 minutes after I wrote this.

[Data]

So... I've got my hilt assembled. This thing is fantastic. Tim does such incredible work. A few more questions on the electronics side:

I'm using the new PC v2.0. I have the wiring mostly figured out, but I'm still confused about which resistors I need. I'm assuming I need 2 of them; one for the red accent LED and one for the lighted ring AV switch. And then where does the resistor go in the circuit?

I tried following the resistor chart on the shop side, but I am NOT an electrician. I just don't want to destroy my parts!

By the way, this is my 7.4v power source: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=17285

They fit nicely in the handle.

[Silver Serpent]

Page 12 of the new PC 2.0 manual shows where to hook up accent LEDs. The LED in the AV switch qualifies as an accent LED. All the accent LED pads are 3.3v and 18mA max current. You can use the calculations on p. 12 to figure out your resistor value, or just go to http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

Li-po batteries are not recommended for use in sabers. They are too easily damaged with impacts, and even light dueling has the possiblity of damaging those cells. Li-ion batteries are a much better solution. If you are only using your saber as a display piece and you never duel with it, you *might* get away with using li-po. I still would not charge them inside the hilt.

Damaged li-po cells cause fires and explosions when you recharge them.

[Data]

I work with LiPo on the R/C hobby side. These were designed for airsoft and they can take an appropriate beating. They would normally be used in the pistol grip or forearm of an AEG and would survive similar outdoor use in airsoft scenario games.

LiPo in general is used heavily in the R/C community, where they regularly live through aircraft crashes and rough off-road driving. I don't think durability is an issue.

I never intended to charge them "installed". That wouldn't really work with my charger anyway. But you're right about the heat/safety issues in any case.