Schematic check, if it's no trouble?

[TuxedoCartman]

Hi everyone,

I'm 99% certain I've got everything laid out how I'm supposed to on this PC install. But since it's my first time, I thought I'd beg the veterans here to give my schematics a once-over, just to make sure everything's 5x5.



The one thing I've been really unsure about is whether or not to put resistors on the illuminated AV switches. Some people have said the PC handles that just fine, others have said a small resistor is necessary. These are green LED switches, so what do people here think? Yay, nay?

Thanks in advance for any help!

[IndustrialAction]

It looks good so far. The switch LEDs are rated at 3.3V and the pads drive 3.3V so technically you don't need a resistor. I put an 18ohm 1/4w resistor on mine but just as a precaution.

Have you taken a look at the specs for PC1.6? You could add in the RICE port, upgrade the LED to a LEDengin and pick-up a PeX for FoC. Obviously you can skip those but they are cool options to consider.

[FenderBender]

The pads are 3.3v, but the LEDs in the switch (at least the momentary one) is actually 2.1v. Needs a resistor. W.O.E. "Always use a resistor"

[IndustrialAction]

Which one Fender? The specs on TCSS have both the short and long green ring and green dot at 3.3V. Am I missing something?

[TuxedoCartman]

Thanks guys! Good to know on the LED resistors; I'll make sure to do that. Though you lost me on uprading the LED to an LEDengine. What's the difference?

Actually, I'm planning on adding a R.I.C.E. port as part of the install, but it seemed so straight-forward and easy I didn't see much sense in cluttering up my schematics to ask about it. My biggest concern with that is that I'm using a Mac, and am going to have to find someone willing to loan me their PC to let me get the saber set up. Still, once all this cram-fu is accomplished, that'll probably be easier than opening it up over and over again to get to the card.

[IndustrialAction]

The LEDengin is a multi-die LED. You can choose from several different color options and add FoC (flash-on-clash) where a different color or a brighter color flashes when you trigger a clash, blaster block or lock-up. It is a very cool feature. For example, you could get an RGBA, wire B and G in series and then wire the A (amber) die to the FoC pad via a PeX (power extender) [always use a resistor when using a PeX!]. That would yield a cyan-ish blade color with an amber flash. You can really get creative with the wiring and do any number of combinations. It is something worth exploring if you're up to the challenge.

[TuxedoCartman]

Oooooh... okay, yeah, that does sound cool. But maybe for saber #2; this one is a wee bit tight on space (as in, "Oh god, oh god, none of this is going to fit!"), and it's my first build, so I'm trying not to get in *too* over my head (too late). But that's okay, because I've already got sketches done up for the next one, that should have plenty of room, and would really benefit from such add-ons.

[FenderBender]

I am going by the manufacturer's data on the shorties. 2.1v for blue, green, and white. 1.9v for 'hot' colors, red, amber, orange.

[IndustrialAction]

Gotcha. Maybe the store's specs should be checked then just to make sure!