Restarted...

[primi]

I believe this is actually my very first post here. But this project of mine was started years ago. This has to be some kind of a record for slow building a saber!

What I did right after discovering this custom saber building world is I got lucky. I started reading all about it and after 2 weeks I had a good idea about what I need and what I want. It was just a matter of waiting for those elusive CF boards that apparently show up and then disapear faster thay you can blink.

And I got lucky. Days after the decision was made they showed up, version 6.1. So I bought one. Err, no, I bought two. And a Color Xtender. Ordered some parts from the shop as well. And the batteries for 2 sabers.

When I had it all in one place though I started scratching my head. Cram-fu was needed! Lots of it. Maybe not for a seasoned builder but for the first timer it all started looking quite daunting. Plus I did not order any internal parts to hold it all together because my intention was to build my own solution. So the project stalled.

After I think 2 years I decided to at least bench test my CF to hear it for the first time in real life. Then I shelved it again. But now I'm back. No, really, i am!

To help my non existing cram-fu I decided to start by taking some measurements and drawing my parts in 3D. I did manufacture a few parts last year while bench testing to hold the speaker and some discs to go inside. But they were less than perfect. So I'm thinking of printing my own parts. Plus I really need to see the insides and the space I have to play with.

So here it is, nothing special and ultra custom, just a familiar shape from somewhere far, far away.



The idea was to have RICE and recharge ports at the back.



Followed by a 2W bass speaker (and maybe just maybe a small LED to illuminate the grill), 2x 18650 with CF and PeX on top. And I believe I have a LEDengine that I need to dig specifications of somewhere as well. RGBW most likely. And a lense.

I modelled CF card roughly because I did not want to attack it with callipers for obvious reasons and I suppose it will do just fine like that.

[primi]

So now I have to decide what to do with the insides and how to hold it all in place. Plus there is really very little room for the wires to go past the speaker and there are a number of them needed on the other side.

Another solution I need to figure out is do I make that pommel insert fixed or free to turn. I don't think fixed will work as there are lots of wires and lots of turns to get it screwed on.

[primi]

Oops, made a stupid mistake with the CF board, had some details on wrong locations. This is better. And prettier.



And it has holes now as well lol.

[amwolf]

Ok, I'm going to threadjack you for a question: what software are you using to model with? And the imagery overlay... I ask because my Autocad software is obsolete (which I do my designs with) and I'm looking for something new. I can't generate detail that fine. Or quickly.

I'll now return you to your regularly scheduled thread...

[primi]

It depends. Do you need it for business as well or just for fun? All that you've seen so far can be made with a free one called Sketchup. But I think you have to buy the pro version to get some extra features that are nice to have. But it's still cheap compared to the serious CAD programs for professionals. The prices on those are eye-watering. Think 10k to make the math easy after the purchase and some training.

I modeled the speaker. 2W bass I think it's called.

[primi]

I have a custom lens holder solution now, but still not sure wether you want your LED screwed in as far as it would go into the lens or is it better to have them further appart.



This is fully screwed in.

[primi]

I'd like to have a lever/clamp there but of course it has no function on this particular piece because it's constructed as a 1 piece MHS part. Would be nice to hide a push button under it. I think I saw somebody do it like that already but I don't have a good solution yet.



It's not screen acurate but it's not even ment to be. It's longer and doesn't start in the middle.

[primi]

Had to remodel my speaker holder, to get those thicker wires through I pushed the speaker to one side as far as it would go to still maintain correct wall thickness.

[Quixotic Jedi]

Interesting speaker holder mod. What are your wall thicknesses at your thinnest and thickest parts?

[primi]

Interesting speaker holder mod. What are your wall thicknesses at your thinnest and thickest parts?

It's 0.7mm on the left where it's the thinnest and then just below 3mm on the right. That allows for a 2.2mm cut for 2 wires and the rest are 1.2 mm. I can add a third thicker slot and I probably will but for charging purposses only I can get away with a thinner wire as well (so only need negative to charging port and then back and I only route a thinner positive for charging, full thickness just to CF).