So progress has not stalled this week, but I've been spending all my saber time troubleshooting my sound setup. I've either got a flaky uSD card or my sound module is bad. A new uSD card should arrive tomorrow, so the troubleshooting can continue.
So progress has not stalled this week, but I've been spending all my saber time troubleshooting my sound setup. I've either got a flaky uSD card or my sound module is bad. A new uSD card should arrive tomorrow, so the troubleshooting can continue.
So progress has slowed, but has not stopped. I've been busy with the electronics side and am close to getting that squared away. I ended up returning the sound module for testing and the company agreed that it was not working properly so they replaced it (and oddly returned the defective unit to me). I got the new unit connected to my amp and everything is working pretty well. There's still a distinct click when the unit starts/stops, but I just need to add a couple transistors to eliminate that per the datasheet. I tested the "defective" unit with the amp circuit, and that part seems to work (speaker level output was the problem before), so for saber purposes I have two sound modules that work. The other thing I found about this unit is that there's always a very slight gap between files. My plan is to use both units in the saber with one only playing a hum and the other doing all of the sound effects. This has the added bonus of opening up some fun sound theme options. I need to redo a bit of the code to account for this and make sure the clicks go away, but I'm pretty hopeful that everything will pull together.
I did some test etches using hydrogen peroxide and hydrochloric acid. I think this has the potential to give me what I'm looking for, but I need to do a bit more testing for the resist. I tried toner transferred from magazine paper, and the toner held up pretty well, but the transfer was not nearly as crisp as I'd hoped. I just got some PNP Blue sheets in the mail yesterday that should produce better results.
On the design side, I think I'm back to the original Satele-style fins. I've spent some time working on a sample fin and it's quite a challenge.
I've got a good idea on the interior layout and should have room for the crystal chamber, so I've also been working on that design.
All in all, been a lot going on but no fun pics to share yet.
Hey Rogue for etching have you thoughtof copper sulfate it may be a littleless cuastic. I'm testing this approche myself very soon. All in all your build is amazing keep at
Sith Happens
I looked up copper sulfate etching and it seems I had a few pages bookmarked, so I have thought about it, but I honestly don't remember much. What kind of resists can be used for this type of etching? Right now I'm working on variants of toner resists so that I can do the design in Illustrator and then transfer to the hilt.
You can use vinyl, sharpie, clear paint, clear packing tape.
Sith Happens
I'm curious if the PNP Blue sheets would work for this and how they'd hold up to this solution vs the acid. I have some copper sulfate already, so perhaps I'll use both solutions with my next test to have a good comparison. Thanks for the suggestion!
I mentioned progress on the electronics side, but wanted to give a glimpse at what I'm working on. Here's a quick video of the blade and the color picker program. Didn't have the audio connected for this vid. Starts off with triggering the clash flicker, then cycling through the 4 color presets, and then around 0:15 I'm updating the color via the color picker on screen.
For the video or something else? The video shows as embedded on my screen, but the link is http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=w0SZHV1NnRk
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