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Thread: Building first MHS saber with spare Luke ANH parts - I need help!

  1. #1

    Question Building first MHS saber with spare Luke ANH parts - I need help!

    Ive got the hilt pieces already. I've got a few questions about electronics.

    Im planning on using spare Luke ANH parts that my brother gave to me after he shattered his blade while dueling. The electronics work, clash sensor, swing sensor, etc.
    I want to use the MHS Activation Box 5 with an AV switch, LED indicator light and recharge port. I would like to know if anyone has a wiring diagram for this build? Maybe some advice on the wiring? I've been looking at all sorts of diagrams and builds throughout the forums, but I cant seem to find any that include the recharge port and LED indicator light. So, I have no clue how I would go about getting the LED indicator and recharge port to work. Any help, (Or pushes in the right direction.), would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks

  2. #2

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    Here's the relevant thread for wiring up a recharge port:

    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ge-port-hookup
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  3. #3

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    Thank you for the link. I've been away for a while and I haven't been working on my lightsaber. I actually just took it off the shelf and dusted it... I've got the body together, just have to get some money together for the rest of the internal pieces I need to complete this project.

    Here are some pics of what I've got so far:

    IMG_2212.jpg
    IMG_2213.jpg
    IMG_2214.jpg

    I worked, (cut, punched holes) all the vinyl material by hand. Threaded it with braided vinyl threading. Finished of the braid with imitation "bone" beads. All the materials and tools I picked up at Hobby Lobby for less than $15.

    Thanks again for the info. I will update again, hopefully soon.

  4. #4

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    Is this a double bladed saber or are you really using a blade holder for your pommel?

  5. #5

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    Single blade. Yes, using the blade holder as my pommel. The hilt is about 15-16 inches in length. I was able to use the speaker cover from the Luke ANH Saber as my end insert. Just had to do a bit a sanding around the edges to make it fit. So snug actually that I might not have to Loc-tite it in to place.

  6. #6

  7. #7

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    Where will the switches go?
    The lightsaber hilt is capable of producing a blade of pure energy. The lightsaber hilt has proven to be completely safe. The saber blade however has not. Do not touch the operational end of the saber blade. Do not look directly at the operational end of the saber blade. Do not immerse the saber blade into your flesh, not even partially.

  8. #8

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    I don't recommend using Loc-tite to hold pieces in place. If anything, take some teflon tape and wrap it around the threads before you screw it together. It'll help prevent the pieces from unscrewing on their own, and still be easily disassembled if you need to perform maintenance.

    I do this for MHS pieces as well.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Enzyme067 View Post
    I was able to use the speaker cover from the Luke ANH Saber as my end insert. Just had to do a bit a sanding around the edges to make it fit. So snug actually that I might not have to Loc-tite it in to place.
    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    I don't recommend using Loc-tite to hold pieces in place.
    I think he's just using loc-tite on the salvaged speaker grille into the blade holder. I did nearly the same thing for a saber I had (old style blade holder 12/ a LOT of filing on MR Rots Anakin speaker grille), however I used a bit of blade stock for a "stopper" and just kinda jammed the thing in

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Starwaster View Post
    Where will the switches go?
    The hole for the switch box is covered by the material. I am going to wait until I have the box to fit things properly for cutting. You can see the indent of the hole in thew first picture.

    That and Odious has got the right idea about the Loc-Tite for the grill. I am definitely going to use something else for the threading.

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