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Thread: Dust's brass and aluminum

  1. #11

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    There is a different between a good spinner, and a good dueler. Keep in mind that if you were in a real fight, that only use a lot of spins/twirls have is to intimidate your opponent. Also a lot of strikes with one hand are not meant to be 'finishing' attacks with most weapons, but are meant to slowly weaken your opponent.

    So with that in mind I would say this looks like this saber design would be fine for dueling, but not for spinning. Which is also the case for a lot of the sabers used in the films.

    I really like the look of this as well

  2. #12

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    I've done a little work on the crystal chamber section (sorry the pics are so bad) I'm not usingquartz its a piece of onyx i cut but inside the saber you cant really tell
    DSCF5214.jpg
    DSCF5226.jpg

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rafalema View Post
    Have you ever actually held one? Just asking, I've seen plenty of people saying this with zero experience on the case.
    The Graflex is a great dueler, if it's a replica, an original Graflex shouldn't be risked for dueling.
    The Graflex is only a bit larger diameter, and the lower grips are excellent, but the whole design really requires to use much force at all times, doing any spins or fluorishes would be hard IMO. The control box doesn't get in the way if you are using the 2-handed grip. With one-handed grip, it might get in the way depending on how you grip it.

    To the original poster, great saber! I really like the design, great work. Now do the insides as well as you did the outside
    Well, I have all the original MR replicas and I am aikidoka, so I like to "play" with swords (katana, bokken).... IMHO, MR or Hasbro hilts (especially the anakin) have uncomfortable big diameters (I don't have enormous hands). I don't say that it's uncomfortable for simple dueling in a kendo or bokken style, but if you want to do spins and tricks like in the movies or in single hand, it's more complicated....Just watch at the behind the scenes RoTS and you'll notice that hayden uses a modified hilt with a thin neck to perform...so
    Last edited by Vlad Doon; 02-19-2012 at 05:05 AM.

  4. #14

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    got some stuff today so im ready to work on it again. having some PC problems though so if anyone can help please see my thread in the sound thread section thanks everyone.

  5. #15

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    i also got my switch boxes picked and i'd like some opinions before i commit. the first is more of a switch cover i made which will hold 2 plunger type buttons, the second is an activation box i bought from TCSS it will also have the same type of buttons. mine has a more sleek look and will make it easier to wield but the second gives it a old republic era look, not to mention the much easier switch installation. let me know what you think!
    DSCF5274.jpgDSCF5270.jpg
    Last edited by dustunite; 02-23-2012 at 09:01 PM. Reason: forgot to put in the pics

  6. #16

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    I prefer the TCSS box - it seems to be truer to the overall feel and look of the saber. The other is too streamlined, in my opinion. Maybe you can shim it up some off the brass section to add a reveal? Beautiful saber, whichever you choose.

  7. #17

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    did some more work, i think i got the PC problems worked out. i had to do some work on the bow to make everything fit
    DSCF5265.jpgDSCF5268.jpgDSCF5270.jpg
    everything is ready to install, i got some more stuff today and ordered a 10w amber ledengin and its a nice color but a little to orange i wanted more of a yellow so im just going to go with the royal blue rebel and forget about the FOC. this is basically it, I'll post pics of it lit up once everything is installed
    DSCF5274.jpgDSCF5276.jpg

  8. #18

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    sorry didnt get all the pics on there
    DSCF5271.jpgDSCF5272.jpg

  9. #19

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    Shaping up nicely!

  10. #20

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    Finished up today. I had to make the switch buttons and put everything together but that was it.
    DSCN6823.jpgDSCN6825.jpgDSCN6827.jpgDSCN6834.jpgDSCN6841.jpg
    My only problem left is getting the accent led which powers the crystal chamber to flash more rapidly or not at all. I don't totally understand the manual when it comes to configuring that. Perhaps I should have wired it differently but its too late now.

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