Oh, so the green is really an add-on. I think I have a one-switch with a DPDT here that'll work. I was just about to add the recharge port and LED. I'd have think for the Green LED though...
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I think this will work. I took the idea Tim posted for the Hasbro/Corbin setup so I'm hoping it would all work. If you stil want it I could add in the "armed" LED, but it seems you added that more because of the second switch than because it fit the design.
http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/2...instuffhl3.jpg
If any of you see issues with it, let me know so I can work it out or scrap it.
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xwing that is much nicer then what I was scrapping down. does the corbin board have a common ground for activation? If so then you nailed it pretty good.
Pretty much one side does the boards and the other side does the pli/led/resonator.
EDIT-Xwing just slap the led in line with the resonator[]
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I was going by Tim's where the Hasbro and Corbin's shares a ground so I'm hoping it works with an MR. I haven't tried this myself but it makes sense.
Yeah, I'll slap in the LED and resistor later if Jonitus says it's needed. You are right though that I could just splice it into the PLI or Resonator.
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You can use a SPST switch if you use the output of the sound module to switch on corbins driver.
Tim
The Custom Saber Shop
If you use the SPST, using the MR to switch on Corbin's driver, do you still retain the "power up" effect of Corbin's board?
Yeah, the green LED is totally superfluous and serves no true function (so it can go "bye-bye"), but I really do want to have this set up so one switch arms the saber and activates the PLI and resonator, then a second switch activates the saber itself, sound and Luxeon.
I know...why two switches when one will work? Well, if using a DPDT for all the functions, wouldn't chaning from "armed" to "active" remove power from the "armed" side of the switch (meaning the PLI would be unlit) when the Luxeon and sound is on?
I'm getting confused. Can someone explain it to me like you would to a layman?
Sorry bud, I get excited when we start talkin setups that are more then a resistor and a switch[]
If what you really want is one switch to "activate" and one switch to "ignite" then two standard switches of what ever design would do you right and from there I we could just wire diagram two setups off of one batt pack.
If you would like to have just one switch on the saber but want it to do everything that is pretty easy to do as well. You could also use a multi-position switch to actually have it "activate" in position one and then go to position two which could actually be setup so that position one and two are both active.
I am sorry if I was rambeling and getting this issue confusing. you could use a dpst switch meaning that there is on and off but there are two isolated set of terminals so that one set feeds the power to your pli group and the other is a trigger to activate the boards.
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What I posted would make everything start with the one push. Tim is correct that you could use a SPST. This would be easier with the switches he has that feature pigtails. If it was just poles to solder to you'd probably need to add them as you'd be soldering 4 seperate devices to those two poles (8 wires to two poles[:0]). Which is why even though it's more confusing I'd like the DPDT since it's one switch to one pole.
You could easily retain the two switch operation by splitting the DPDT into two SPDT's. This may be undersirable as nothing would stop you from turning on the sound and driver seperatly from the PLI and Resonator out of order. To have the "safety" switch that must be pushed first you'd have to have a modified setup of Corbin's Safety + PLI and Resonator.
I can look at that later also. I have classes in a bit.[]
<center>Read the FAQ or x-wing won't be happy.
Before posting did you check the Thread Index?.
*Jonitus gets a glazed look in his eyes and drool begins to drip from the corner of his mouth*
...huh?
Yeah, I hadn't thought about turnign stuff on out of order. That would be kind of embarassing, wouldn't it? I suppose the single switch method wouldn't be too bad, thinking about having to be conscious of what order things get turned on. Of course, there is the safety trigger idea, but that ads yet another element to an already complex (IMHO) electronics assortment for a saber.
Let's go with the single switch idea. I like the idea of one switch position activating the PLI-resonator group and the next position activating the driver and sound while still leaving power to the PLI and resonator. It may sound silly, but I imagine it as though one switch position activates the "power-cell" (PLI) and gets the "field generator" (resonator) spinning in the saber, while the next position acivates the magnetic containment field and channels energy throught eh crystals to extend the blade (driver board and sound). Savvy?
Would the switch in question be a SPDT, SPST, DPDT or DPST? I'd like to know so I can start scouting for a switch at the local RadioShack or similar electronics goodie store.
You guys are great for helping me out on this.
OOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!![^][^][^][^][^]
A Jack Sparrow reference.
Dude you are alright in my book for sure[
I will link you some switches....
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