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Thread: A few Questions about switches, batteries, speakers and pommel recharge ports

  1. #11
    Jedi Initiate Loachri MacTalabh's Avatar
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    That switch only goes a little less than 1/2 the diameter of the MHS.

    Yes I meant DIY. As in DO IT YOURSELF!

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Loachri MacTalabh View Post
    That switch only goes a little less than 1/2 the diameter of the MHS.

    Yes I meant DIY. As in DO IT YOURSELF!
    I intend to... the parts I can at least.
    So the soldering and screwing together basically.

    Just have to decide between that one and the shorter led switches.
    I don't particularly care for the led buttons but having the option is always good.
    Could turn out I like them better in person and they don't look to bad unlit either.

    Thanks for the information again.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Garrek View Post
    As I understand it, wiring two LED in
    Series is 3/4v and 1000ma to 6/8v and 1000ma.
    Parallel is 3/4V and 1000ma to 3/4V and 2000ma, or 1500 I think is the most a PC can go. *This is correct*
    So two led in parallel should run half as long as two in series on the same battery pack. *This is incorrect. 1amp at 8V is the same amount of power as 2 amps at 4v.*

    Maybe you "or I" am confusing the terms. I'll admit I have done that more then once.
    Series is 3/4v and 1000ma to 6/8v and 1000ma.
    Parallel is 3/4V and 1000ma to 3/4V and 2000ma, or 1500 I think is the most a PC can go. *This is correct*

    So two led in parallel should run half as long as two in series on the same battery pack. *This is incorrect. 1amp at 8V is the same amount of power as 2 amps at 4v.*

    There are many different ways to run dies and packs to power them. There are many opinions on the different setups. I like parallel myself, to drive them hard. but this is more complicated sooo...

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunrider View Post
    Series is 3/4v and 1000ma to 6/8v and 1000ma.
    Parallel is 3/4V and 1000ma to 3/4V and 2000ma, or 1500 I think is the most a PC can go. *This is correct*

    So two led in parallel should run half as long as two in series on the same battery pack. *This is incorrect. 1amp at 8V is the same amount of power as 2 amps at 4v.*

    There are many different ways to run dies and packs to power them. There are many opinions on the different setups. I like parallel myself, to drive them hard. but this is more complicated sooo...
    Ah, I see. Power is a confusing thing. :/

    With a pair of 14650 li-ions at 7.4v and 1600mAH, running through a PC, would you personally suggest a parallel or series setup for the best light output vs time?
    I could possibly go for a 4 pack, though I don't think I will and at that point a stick pair of 18650 would prolly be a better choice.

  5. #15

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    Looking at the available options, I'm going to have to say that parallel wiring is the better way to go. I was told that running multiple pairs of 14500 (AA size) Li-Ions in parallel (each pair is wired in series, making three 7.4v packs in parallel) would extend runtime and offer a larger input current. If you're running your LEDs in parallel, this may be what you want.

    Unfortunately, parallel LED wiring can suffer from color separation. I've not done enough research on that subject, since I wanted my first saber wired in series, but it sounds awful. If you're going for RGBW (like I want to, eventually), it's worth doing some extra research on how color separation may affect the wiring.

    In the end, I'd have to say that multiple packs are the way to go (at least, for me), since the smaller battery size would make better use of the space we have to work with. I'd much rather have half the hilt reserved for small packs, and use more of the width of the space available, than have the entire hilt taken up with a pair of batteries which wastes most of that space. If there were AAA size Li-Ions, I'm sure I'd go with those.

    It's also possible to put an extra battery pack inside (if you have the space) and directly drive a few extra components without wiring through the PC. If you wanted, for instance, a cooling fan, but already maxed your input to the PC, you could acquire a small power regulator and run the extra pack to the fan. You'd either need removable batteries or a second recharge port, but it would be better than sacrificing power to your LED.

    Don't feel bad about not having all the answers. I've been here for almost two months and I'm still reading everything I can get my hands on. I don't see that changing in the short-term.

    EDIT: Actually, just sourced some AAA size Li-Ions from an external site (link omitted). 10440s are on my list, now. 3.7v, 500mah, unprotected, flat top. I'd rather have tabs, but I'll take what I can get. I'll have to cobble a cylindrical battery holder for them.
    Last edited by Weaver; 02-05-2012 at 10:46 AM.

  6. #16

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by BlessedWrath View Post
    Looking at the available options, I'm going to have to say that parallel wiring is the better way to go. I was told that running multiple pairs of 14500 (AA size) Li-Ions in parallel (each pair is wired in series, making three 7.4v packs in parallel) would extend runtime and offer a larger input current. If you're running your LEDs in parallel, this may be what you want.
    3 pairs of AA sized Li-Ions would be 6 inches long and provide "if I'm thinking right" 2400-2700mAH and 7.4v.
    2 pairs of AA sized Li-Ions would be 4 inches long and provide 1600-1800mAH and 7.4V.
    A pair of 14650 that I plan on using take 2.5 inches and provide 1600mAH and 7.4V.
    2 pairs of 14650 Li-Ions would be 5 inches long and provide 3200mAH and 7.4V.
    A pair of 18650 take 5 inches or 2.5 if you use Sunrider's method of installing them side by side and provide 2600mAH and 7.4V

    So the AA size batteries are losing out on run time. Anyone can correct me if I'm misunderstanding things.
    That aside I was inquiring as to how he would personally wire the led to best take advantage of brightness vs run time given the batteries, not how he would wire the batteries.
    I'm not entierly sure you even could run 2 led, a PC and a speaker off a 3.7V batte

    Quote Originally Posted by BlessedWrath View Post
    Unfortunately, parallel LED wiring can suffer from color separation. I've not done enough research on that subject, since I wanted my first saber wired in series, but it sounds awful. If you're going for RGBW (like I want to, eventually), it's worth doing some extra research on how color separation may affect the wiring.
    I have also read this, however the board I would be using for a color changing saber would compensate for this.
    I haven't read up on this to much since I had decided to run them in series.
    Though I prolly should.

    Quote Originally Posted by BlessedWrath View Post
    EDIT: Actually, just sourced some AAA size Li-Ions from an external site (link omitted). 10440s are on my list, now. 3.7v, 500mah, unprotected, flat top. I'd rather have tabs, but I'll take what I can get. I'll have to cobble a cylindrical battery holder for them.
    I believe I have read that trying to push AAA batteries into running multiple led at once can be dangerous.
    Though I may be misremembering.

    Also you would need an awful lot of AAA to get the same run time as 2 14650s.
    I think...3 pair, so 6 just to get 1500mAH, if your really tight for battery space, I suppose they might be worth it.
    Assuming that you have somewhere else with enough room for a sound board but not batteries.
    You can fit...what maybe 7 in an MHS main body? So enough for a 7.4V 1500mAH in a 1.75 inch section?
    You can layer a soundboard on a pair of 14--0s with plenty of room in a 2/2.5 inch section.




    Quote Originally Posted by lukeskyrunner666 View Post
    how do i change my pic
    Really?
    Have you even looked at the sub-forum names yet?
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...p?1-Start-here
    Read everything in there before you ask another question. Please?
    Last edited by Garrek; 02-05-2012 at 11:41 AM. Reason: Responding to Luke.

  8. #18

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    Those were 500 mah each, so 6 of them ends up being 3000 mah. They're also the same type of battery, so I'm not sure how it's any different to run multiple smaller cells, versus a few larger ones.

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by BlessedWrath View Post
    Those were 500 mah each, so 6 of them ends up being 3000 mah. They're also the same type of battery, so I'm not sure how it's any different to run multiple smaller cells, versus a few larger ones.
    There's no difference in combining small vs large cells, except not to combine them into one pack. XD Far as I know anyway.

    If you run all 6 in series then yah it is 3000mAH but then its also only 3.7V.

    If you run 2 batteries in series for 7.4V then you need another pack of 2 in series, wired parallel to add to the mAH.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by BlessedWrath View Post
    Those were 500 mah each, so 6 of them ends up being 3000 mah. They're also the same type of battery, so I'm not sure how it's any different to run multiple smaller cells, versus a few larger ones.
    No. When batteries are put in series voltage goes up, current and capacity stay the same. Never go smaller in battery size than you need to. The actual mah of a 14650s is 1100mah. 18650s can go up to 2900mah, that is equal to 6 or 7 AAA size or 4 AA size li-ions. 18650s are a huge step up in power compared to everything else. Even 18500s are only 1600mah. I would never use AAA size for anything.

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