How do you folks secure internal components?

[Viper1]

Howdy,

I built a simple stunt MHS saber a few months ago and overall i'm pretty happy with the results. The only issue i have with it at the moment is that the battery box rattles around a bit. I was considering either wrapping the battery box in bouble wrap or velcro to pad it out a little, is there a better option that im just not seeing?

Cheers

Simon

[Strydur]

Depends on what battery holder you are using. If it is the 4AAA you can use a speaker mount v2 to hold it in place.

[Weaver]

You can also build an internal chassis, if you haven't done so already. TCSS sells chassis disks and threaded rod, which is basically all you need. The disks are placed at regular intervals and the components are secured inside the cylindrical module they create. This is also how most crystal chambers I've seen have been mounted.

[Pinhead52]

If you want a quick cheap fix that you don't have to order, I solved that problem with my first saber by sliding a few rubber washers down the walls around the battery pack. In the long run, though, the chassis and speaker mount are actually easier and cleaner.

[amwolf]

Here's another way: a few cheap plastic washers I found at a local hardware store glued together to the fill the thickness of the gap between the pommel and the extension, and then to the 4AAA holder (the v2 wouldn't fit into that extension and I was too lazy to try and modify it). The little stand holding the accent led also made a nice grip to pull the battery holder out...

[Onli-Won Kanomi]

Bubble wrap or velcro can work for rattling but isnt ideal, a chassis for securing internal parts is so much better. When I first started in this hobby it was not uncommon to use 1.25" PVC plumbing tube to make chassis for internals [Strydurs decision to size MHS so sink tubes could fit over for shrouds and pvc pipe could fit inside for chassis was pure genius imo], and some great sabersmiths like Madcow still use that approach sometimes to make brilliant masterpiece sabers...but now we have the TCSS chassis disc/rod system [which speaker mount 4 works with] that is not only functional but looks GREAT even when pulled out 'revealed' or with visible crystal chambers. Disk based chassis are awesome and if you try them you'll almost certainly like them a lot .

[Crystal Chambers]

I've done a variety of sled/chassis and find they can vary significantly from hilt to hilt. I've yet to make one I feel comfortable pulling out and in to swop batteries so I always go in hilt recharge. Even without sound.

Delrin makes a great sled or chassis material since you can get it in a solid bar.

[Viper1]

Thank's for the help everyone, I now have a few options to consider!

I had no idea about the chassis disks and threaded rod, i'll go check them out in the store.As i have a 4 AAA battery box I reckon i'll proboably go with the seaker mount option as it seems the simpler option. How does the battery box fit? do you just push it in or do you need to glue it?

[Vlad Doon]

[QUOTE=amwolf;207727]Here's another way: a few cheap plastic washers I found at a local hardware store glued together to the fill the thickness of the gap between the pommel and the extension, and then to the 4AAA holder (the v2 wouldn't fit into that extension and I was too lazy to try and modify it). The little stand holding the accent led also made a nice grip to pull the battery holder out...

Hey good idea for accent holder

[Crystal Chambers]

If it's from here it just snaps to the speaker holder which will lock between your pommel and body section. Battery holders from other sources may not fit as well or not at all though.