Opinions?

**Garrek** · 01-31-2012, 06:02 PM

I don't know any of the watt/ohms stuff yet sorry. ^_^'

If i made the wrong decision as to what blade he might like best how much trouble would it be for him to swap it out later?
But as far as blades go, they are just a tube, you slide it into the blade holder and tighten the retention screw.
Then to take it out just loosen the screw and pull it out.
So it wont be any problem trying another type of blade if you don't quite like the first one you get.

which lens should i get?
Firstly you need the P4 lens holder, then most people use the 8.7 degree lens.
Lens holder http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Se...older--P7.aspx
Lens http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Lu...ngle-P537.aspx

do i need a resistor for the other LED?
You need to resistor all accent leds. That means blinky lights, button lights and so on.
However the PC is an led driver so you do not need to resistor the blade led.

In response to FenderBender.
AA = 14500 in my head, sorry. lol
The 18650s are popular for one reason 2600mAH vs 900mAH.
Even 4 14500 are only 1800mAH vs 2600mAH for 2 18650s.
Running 1 led that isn't so much a problem, but for people running two and third on flash.
Still, yes they really are a pain to find room for....unless your sunrider, then everything seems to just fit right in for you.

**FenderBender** · 01-31-2012, 06:28 PM

Actually, those blue AV switches are 2.1V. So, 3.3-2.1=1.2 1.2/.05 (50ma)=24. You'll need a 1/4 watt 24 ohm resistor.

The speaker, yes, forgot to add that. Sorry.

And yes Garrek, 18650s are indeed superior to 14500s for runtime. There's no doubt there. But, they are huge. A lot of people don't realize just how huge they are until they have them in hand. 14500s will deliver 30min+ on a 10W saber with Flash on Clash™. While that isn't stellar, most people aren't using it that long at one time. Unless you plan your build around the 18650s they just aren't practical. Most builds are smaller than the room those batteries need.

**yoda** · 01-31-2012, 06:32 PM

**FenderBender** · 01-31-2012, 06:45 PM

Looks good, stuff that isn't on the list that you are going to need:

Soldering iron with REALLY fine conical tip. ESD safe is best. Silver bearing hi-tech solder (available at RadioShack cat. 064-035), 26-28 ga. wire in multiple colors (red for positive, black for negative other colors for switch etc.). Heatshrink (3/32" diameter), also get the thermal adhesive star pad http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/St...-pad-P483.aspx, get a couple just in case. This is what you'll use to adhere the LED to the heasink AFTER you wire it (wire the LED off of the heatsink).

Also, take a trip to Michael's Crafts and look in the section for gift basket making, and get the 40" X 100ft roll of clear gift wrap. Also, go to the wood crafts isle and get 2 - 1/2"X 48" long wood dowels. Then after the saber is built put one dowel through the roll and one person hold the dowel at each end. Then the other person take the other dowel and start rolling the film on it TIGHT. Get it started and then pull off about 4-5FT, and roll it up. Cut it off straight with a nice SHARP pair of scissors or gift wrap razor and put it in the blade. Unroll it inside the blade, and cut it off flush. This will give you a REALLY even and bright blade. It may take some practice.

If I think of anything else, I'll post back.

**yoda** · 01-31-2012, 06:48 PM

Oh thank you sooooooo much !!!!!
how much wire and heatshrink?

**Onli-Won Kanomi** · 01-31-2012, 07:14 PM

You will also want one of the MPS pommel inserts http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MP...le-7-P264.aspx for in the end of the pommel and a c-clip http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Clip--P72.aspx to hold it in the pommel.

You will want some kind of a blade retention screw to fit a matching drilled and tapped hole in the bladeholder [TCSS offers this as a service http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Dr...Hole-P193.aspx or you can buy the drill n tap set and DIY http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-...l-set-P52.aspx and http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Tap-handle-P54.aspx ] to keep the blade from flying out when spinning the saber. If you use a setscrew http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-...crew-P420.aspx you can hide it under an o-ring if you use them or if you don't a thumbscrew can also work. If you use a setscrew you'll also want a matching hex key http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/56...rench-P56.aspx to tighten/loosen it. I recommend 8-32 screw so if the screw hole threads ever get stripped it can be simply retapped for 10-32

I would also strongly suggest the lil tube of teflon grease TCSS sells http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Su...ease-P426.aspx to put on the threads before screwing everything together...I recently regretted forgetting that on a expensive one-of-a-kind custom saber hilt when the parts locked up and never will forget it again...the few cents it costs can save a lot of tricky work worry and cussing lol.

**yoda** · 01-31-2012, 07:23 PM

what are the pommel inserts called? are those the chassis disks? if so which kind do i get? one with or without holes? and where can i find the c clips? i havent seen one yet aare thy sold here or?
is the hole already in the bladeholder or do i have to put it in?
does the size of the sqrew matter?

and great thannks ill deffenitly get that!

**Onli-Won Kanomi** · 01-31-2012, 07:41 PM

Originally Posted by yoda

what are the pommel inserts called? are those the chassis disks? if so which kind do i get? one with or without holes? and where can i find the c clips? i havent seen one yet aare thy sold here or?
is the hole already in the bladeholder or do i have to put it in?
does the size of the sqrew matter?

and great thannks ill deffenitly get that!

No the pommel inserts are different than chassis disks. Sorry I forgot to add links - fixed that now. Your choice whether to DIY tap the hole or get Strydur to so I added links for both

**xl97** · 01-31-2012, 07:47 PM

they are 'not' the chassis disks..

the chassis disks are for mounting internals (soundboards...and more elaborate crystal chambers and details..etc)

the pommel inserts go in the bottom of the pommel (as they are hollow)..
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Pommels-C34.aspx

look toward bottom of page.. (also need a retaining clip)

not sure if you know or have played with it.. but using the MHS Builder is fun to get designs worked out in your head.. maybe you BF can go and play/design one so you know what to get?

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...mhsbuilder.php

blade holder already has hole for blade (with stop).. and bottom will accept the LED/heatsink module..(lens..etc)
you will need to get a hole drilled and tapped to keep the blade in the blae holder (when in use)..

usually 8/32 thumbscrew is used.. (some do 6/32 or 10/24)

**Garrek** · 01-31-2012, 08:05 PM

She knows about the MHS builder, posted a picture of her idea on page 2.

Speaking of which I noticed you added black lines on the hilt grip section.
Are you planing on adding them to the final hilt?

If so you have a few option to do it.
You can use rubber O Rings which are sold in the store, just slip them into the grooves.
You can use paint, though I don't know how well paint would hold up on a grip.
The final option is powder coating, which is permanent. There is an option for that in the store as well.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ma...ting-P577.aspx
If the design you want isn't available there you can email him and arrange a new design.

Here is the example page for the different powder coating colors.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/po...t/PCcolors.asp

If you decide you want powder coating done after you get the saber put together you can send the part back in to get it done, so don't feel like you have to get it done if your not sure.

Thread: Opinions?

Thread Tools

Search Thread

Display

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions