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Thread: The "Outcast"

  1. #1
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    MasterStoddard's Avatar
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    Default The "Outcast"

    These will be the parts I plan to use to build my first personal custom saber. Updated list of parts list. I am only listing parts obtainable from TCSS.

    Hilt
    • Pommel style 3
    • 2 inch double female
    • double male adapter style 1 x2
    • hilt style 2
    • deep ribbed extension
    • 4 inch double female
    • blade holder style 22 (with style 4 heatsink)
    • box 9
    • copper covertec button


    Internals
    • CF v8
    • CEX
    • 7.4v 2600mAh 18650 battery pack
    • switch 22
    • 16mm anti vandal short momentary purple ring switch
    • 2.1mm power jack
    • 6 wire quick connector (x?)
    • 4 wire quick connector (x?)
    • 2 wire quick connector (x?)
    • 20mAh Dynamo hm Variable resistor
    • Stainless steel 4-40 all threaded rods (x?)
    • chassis disc style 4 (x? Plan to order 6 to be safe)
    • 3.5mm R.I.C.E. Port style 2
    • all 10 colors of 28 gage wire for various parts (25' spools of each for other projects)
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by MasterStoddard; 11-26-2016 at 02:06 PM.
    Sean

    SciFiHero.net Member; SG Operations Home of SG-Socom Member

  2. #2

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    That's going to be a monstrously long saber... Are you used to wielding an No'dachi or a Claymore if you don't mind my asking? Other wise the hilt would be a bit long IMO. Nice design aesthetic regardless .
    (\__/)
    (='.'=) Remember, if we get caught....
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  3. #3
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    Default

    I have practiced in the past with the Darth Maul el-cheapo Hasbro hooking several sections of the blades together. I found it to more comfortable to use then the Luke or Vader ones I had as a kid. I was actually thinking of the Scottish Claymore while deciding on my hilt length. I felt as though I had better control over a saber with a longer hilt when I tried it years ago with the toy hilt. I'm hoping to be able to start ordering parts soon for this project.
    Sean

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  4. #4

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    Cool! Too long for me, but cool!

    Oh, and, I like your avatar... ST fans in an SW forum...


    Remember, your LED will ALWAYS look brighter in pics and vids... If you're not playing with it at night, it's not gonna impress you...

  5. #5
    Jedi Padawan Ronan's Avatar
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    Default

    I wonder if the OP knows just how long that will be... lol
    Corbin_Das: If I got a tattoo below my waist, it'd say "Found someone you have I would say, hmmmm?"

  6. #6

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    @ MasterStoddard: Thats cool, I was asking because I practice 3 different Japanese sword styles Jigen Ryu Heiho Kenjutsu being one of them, and I know that a sword with an extremely long hilt can be really tricky to use if you don't have experience using one. And again, nice design aesthetic. I look forward to seeing it lit up

    -K-
    Last edited by Ka'getsu; 01-08-2012 at 10:59 PM.
    (\__/)
    (='.'=) Remember, if we get caught....
    (")_(") You're deaf, and I don't speak english

  7. #7

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    Before you commit to making something that big, I would try to make a mock-up of it and add a mock blade too. That is an awfully big saber considering it isn't a staff. One of my early sabers was about 14" and I think it is too long.



  8. #8
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    Default

    I stumbled across a thread that recommended the use of Potentiometers to get the desired shade of purple. So now I have two questions.
    1. Can a Potentiometer be used in conjunction with the PC and Power Xtender™?
    2. Where can I get some to work with if I can't get them from the shop?

    If I can pick Potentiometers up at the local Radio Shack I have a P7 LED I can use for a test rig to practice making the adjustments till I order the LED Engine. As for the length I can always cut the blade if need be with my Dremel and my diamond cutting wheel.
    Sean

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  9. #9

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    Wow that is long. I agree 14" should be plenty long for a two hander. From what the experts on colour mixing here have suggested mixing using pots with ther PC or CF might not blend as well with ramp up and and down. The red will be more prominent when it's not fully lit. I believe there's a thread about mxing colours stickied about it somewhere here.

    Also I'm not sure why you have the short double female near the pommel. I suggest trying removing the longer one near the emitter and moving the pommel one to the emitter end. You can easily mount a covertec knob opposite your switch though you may want to grind the screw for it so it doesn't protrude into the hilt. Also if you want easy access to the SD card the switch may serve you better in another location.
    Last edited by Crystal Chambers; 01-13-2012 at 02:34 PM.

  10. #10
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    Default

    There is a reason for the two inch section near the pommel, I was going to have the speaker as close to the switch as I could thus giving me a resonance chamber, and as for the five inch section near the BH that I'll let my diagrams kindly explain for me. Total length with the 2 inch section will be about 22.35 inches which is about 2.35 inches longer then the 1999 Hasbro Darth Maul hilt.


    Last edited by MasterStoddard; 01-17-2012 at 11:20 AM.
    Sean

    SciFiHero.net Member; SG Operations Home of SG-Socom Member

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