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Thread: If nothing else, my Cram-Fu is going to get an exercise...

  1. #1

    Default If nothing else, my Cram-Fu is going to get an exercise...

    So, here's what happened.

    A while back (last April-ish) my PC 1.5 died from having the microSD holder pulled off the board by the battery. Two traces completely removed, and all my attempts to fix it myself (mostly consisting of attempting to hot glue the holder and/or card in place) met with no success. I wrote off the board and tossed it, deciding that "one day" I would replace the board and try yet again to get a saber working for more than a few weeks. I've started to do some preliminary thinking, and what I want to do is take this:



    And put in a PC 1.6. Difficulties:

    1. The PC 1.6 is listed as needing a minimum of 4.5 volts. The 1.5 only needed 3.5(?) meaning I could run it and a Rebel off of a single 14650.
    2. If I really need two 14500 cells (or equivalent voltage), how am I going to get it?
    3. If I do need multiple cells, I would like to replace the recharge port in the switch box with a R.I.C.E. port.
    4. How in the name of heaven am I going to put all of this in the hilt?


    I would have looked at the traditional sandwich-style setup as pioneered back in the days of Ultrasound 2.0, but with the rubber grips mounted internally, I don't quite have the room to do so. Moreover, if I do end up having removable cells, the R.I.C.E. port, from what I can tell, will stick down far enough into the hilt to prevent me from using a stick-style cell arrangement.

    Basically, what I'm looking for is guidance from the masters here. I know just enough to screw myself over severely here, and I'm well aware of the fact. I may well be mis-estimating what I have to work with, or what I really need. But I really resist the thought of giving up on this saber; I've been working on it in one form or another for a couple of years now, and I really want to get it working again, and hopefully reliably so.

  2. #2

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    I faced a similar problem as you. Funny that we both made a very similar looking saber.



    I actually managed to cram a single 18650, MR board (those thing are HUGE compared to the PC), AV switch, pololu board and a V2 speaker holder.

    A lot of your hilt spaces is actually taken by the long AV shift. To do a stick setup I think you might want to consider a different type of switch (a smaller momentary switch or hidden switch like my Luke in clamp or control box). That way, you have a clear path of about 6 inch throughout the hilt and you can fit two 18650 inside.

    If you want to keep the switch arrangement, I am pretty sure two 14500 will fit under the pc in the hilt at the lower end of the hilt.

    Are you using the FoC function? If not, the PC should still work with 3.7V.

    You might also want to move your recharge port to the pommel.
    Last edited by Wong Yoon Wei; 12-17-2011 at 06:13 AM.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wong Yoon Wei View Post
    I faced a similar problem as you. Funny that we both made a very similar looking saber.
    Well, they say great minds think alike. (Though I never claimed to have a great mind...)

    Quote Originally Posted by Wong Yoon Wei View Post
    A lot of your hilt spaces is actually taken by the long AV shift. To do a stick setup I think you might want to consider a different type of switch (a smaller momentary switch or hidden switch like my Luke in clamp or control box). That way, you have a clear path of about 6 inch throughout the hilt and you can fit two 18650 inside.
    Actually, I was planning on using the smaller SPST AV momentary Tim carries. What concerned me was the length of the R.I.C.E. port.

    Quote Originally Posted by Wong Yoon Wei View Post
    Are you using the FoC function? If not, the PC should still work with 3.7V.
    Best news I've heard all day - I'll probably just solder in an 18650 or 14650, then!

    Quote Originally Posted by Wong Yoon Wei View Post
    You might also want to move your recharge port to the pommel.
    I hadn't thought of that - I know it's doable, I've seen other folks' builds that have done it, but I've never seen - or been able to figure out - a good way to get those wires past the speaker mount. I believe this means it's time for me to go back to school here, as it were. (Fortunately, I have a Google search for the forums still in my bookmarks somewhere...)

    Thanks!

  4. #4
    Jedi Padawan Ronan's Avatar
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    You never sent your PC for a simple repair?... Before your throw it away, please send it to me
    Corbin_Das: If I got a tattoo below my waist, it'd say "Found someone you have I would say, hmmmm?"

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  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kant Lavar View Post
    It's long since gone, sorry.
    Noooooooooooooooooooooooooo.

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