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Thread: Sound problem on 2011 Ultimate FX sound card

  1. #21
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    So far I have used 14 of the new boards and only had problems with one and that was due to too much voltage. They can only take around 6 volts before components on the board start to fry. That is why I only use 4 AAA Akaline (6 Volts) or use 2 Li-Ions and a 5 volt regulator and use a PNP transistor to get a bright blade. Normally using 6 volts with out a PNP transistor or 5 volt regulator with a PNP transistor, I get a decent blade and the board is pretty stable.

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  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rhyen Skytracker View Post
    So far I have used 14 of the new boards and only had problems with one and that was due to too much voltage. They can only take around 6 volts before components on the board start to fry. That is why I only use 4 AAA Akaline (6 Volts) or use 2 Li-Ions and a 5 volt regulator and use a PNP transistor to get a bright blade. Normally using 6 volts with out a PNP transistor or 5 volt regulator with a PNP transistor, I get a decent blade and the board is pretty stable.
    Huh, I thought I remember you saying you didn't need a PNP transistor in these new Ultimate FX boards. So do you use a TIP 42 like in the Obi-wan econo board? So should definitely use one with a 3.7V Li-Ion 18650, right?

    Did my wiring look good in all the schematics I posted (other than the transister)? Any ideas as to what could have caused 2 boards to get jacked like this? Could it be the wire grounding out on the edge of the LED star? That's the only thing that could have been grounding out against the hilt. I hot glued that crap out of everything else.

  3. #23
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    It depends on the power supply and LED that you use wheather you need a PNP transtor or not. If you use a 3.7V single Li-Ion with a green or blue LED you will need transistor. It depends if you are happy with the blade brightness or not. But if you do use a transistor, be sure to use the correct resistor too. It is hard to tell with out looking at the set up in person to tell what went wrong. Do you have any close up pictures of the wiring? Also, the wire grounding out on the LED star can cause major problems too.

    Live long and...I mean May the force be with you. http://saberconcepts.50.forumer.com/index.php

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rhyen Skytracker View Post
    It depends on the power supply and LED that you use wheather you need a PNP transtor or not. If you use a 3.7V single Li-Ion with a green or blue LED you will need transistor. It depends if you are happy with the blade brightness or not. But if you do use a transistor, be sure to use the correct resistor too. It is hard to tell with out looking at the set up in person to tell what went wrong. Do you have any close up pictures of the wiring? Also, the wire grounding out on the LED star can cause major problems too.
    I have a couple pics on my first post in this thread. I'll post some more when I get home. So for the transistor, is the TIP42 the one to use?

  5. #25

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    What kind and color led did you say you are using?

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunrider View Post
    What kind and color led did you say you are using?
    Green P4.

  7. #27

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    I noticed in your previous posts that when you plugged your charger in to the port, that you said it made swing and clash sounds until it was fully plugged in and then it cut off.... My question is, was the saber on while you were doing this? Because you could've royally fried the board by doing so.
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  8. #28

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    Wade, what have you done with the swing and clash sensors? On the 2 that I've ruined, I put one swing sensor on each side (anakin/vader) of the board perpendicular to each other. Could this be part of my problem? Also, the clash sensor that comes stock is way more sensitive than the TCSS one I mount to the board. I'm guessing it's just because the stock sensor is mounted to the blade. What are your thoughts?

    Btw, I plugged in the charger while it was on only after it was already fried.

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  10. #30
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    If the swing sensors are not wired properly it will cause major problems. I normally just replace the existing swing sensors with the ones from TCSS and wire them back in the exact positions they were in to start with. The clash sensor I normally move as close to the blade as possible. Have you tried a board with the factory sensors and just wire up the necessary components?

    @carthrancore - Yes, it will fit in a 1.25" sink tube.

    Live long and...I mean May the force be with you. http://saberconcepts.50.forumer.com/index.php

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