Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 24

Thread: Finishing service

  1. #1

    Default Finishing service

    I love the range of products and services from this place. I have a general question to pose; I like the looks of different metals, but I know aluminum is the most convenient of the metals to work with as far as machining, steel cuts it like butter! Yet I was wondering if anyone knew of a place to get parts plated or anodized? I'd love to have a bunch of custom emitters made by Tim and have them come in a chrome or anodized brass finish! Any thoughts or suggestions?

    -Erik in CT

  2. #2

    Default

    Nickle-plating also looks SWEEET!!!!

    I'd also love to find some options for "after-market" finishing.

    *********************************
    http://www.members.shaw.ca/Dahak/

  3. #3

    Default

    there are a number of good quality metal paints available that will allow you a good range of choice.
    also the spray on version of "Plasti-Dip" can work wonders for grip material like PVC or to give a shroud that "sithy" look...

    Reality often interferes with what would otherwise be an idyllic delusion.

  4. #4
    Council Member
    Jedi Council Member
    xwingband's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    The training simulators, duh!
    Posts
    5,899

    Default

    I haven't found a good source yet but look up epoxy paint. It's what randomsabers uses to mock up other finishes on their cheaper stunt sabers.

    I have only been able to find locally black, white and beige. It makes sense since I believe it's main use is on appliances (it was labeled for that). It bonds well to metals and dries to a hardness much like nail polish.

    Anodizing is nice but I think it's hard to do in the quanities we are looking at. The process is very similar to making explosives so it's highly regulated (or so I hear).

    <center>
    www.dewbackwing.com</center>

  5. #5

    Default

    Google the words 'paintball anodizing', and you will get ALOT of results for ano at fairly decent prices. []

  6. #6
    Council Member
    Jedi Council Member
    xwingband's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    The training simulators, duh!
    Posts
    5,899

    Default

    You must have more money than the majority of us... because the prices I see aren't that great. I'm also not sure if those paintball places would take our little parts too. Might be worth a try...

    I found this while looking around:
    http://www.warpig.com/paintball/technical/anodize.shtml

    The initial cost seems too much to do it on our own but for someone like Tim that might deal in a higher volumes it might be worthwhile.

    <center>
    www.dewbackwing.com</center>

  7. #7

    Default

    Any type paint will stick to the surfaces I've seen used so far for hilts when prepped properly. I Paint cars and they contain every substrate that could be used on saber hilts. Epoxy does not have to come in colors it can be bought as a primer or the best would be an acid etch (all available in aerosol). I use a product from a co. called UPOLD the primer is called Acid #8. If you Need to fill some sand scratches from possibly molding in parts use HIGH #5. Use some ventilation or you'll become as high as 5 jedi. I Will be painting a custom hilt soon with color changing pigments using what i have told you all to use as undercoats. Since I can used Base/Clear and bake my parts I'll be spraying the rest with automotive finishes. If you want to see the baddest in effects paint hit this link www.alsacorp.com . They sell the most exotic finishes avail. right now. Beleive me i have seen this stuff live and it is the BOMB!!!


  8. #8

    Default

    With Tim's use of Aluminum in the Mods Anodizing can be "faked pretty good using the tint for candy colors. Again spray cans galore for this as well. Just remember preparation is the key to paint. Anybody needing help in that area can email or IM me with any special questions concerning paint and paint prep on yor surface. Keep in mind when using spray cans the paint is thinned a 100 times more than any other type paint so it will atomize out of the tiny hole in the button on the can so thinner coats will achieve your desired look without sags or runs and will dry faster. So don't get upset if it takes 6-7 coats to cover cause if you run it you sand it off and start over.


  9. #9
    Council Member
    Jedi Council Member
    xwingband's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    The training simulators, duh!
    Posts
    5,899

    Default

    I don't think sticking is so much my concern as staying. I don't want it to chip of if I push too hard with my nails or something equally lame.[]

    Does prep really help with that?

    <center>
    www.dewbackwing.com</center>

  10. #10

    Default

    <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by xwingband

    You must have more money than the majority of us... because the prices I see aren't that great. I'm also not sure if those paintball places would take our little parts too. Might be worth a try...
    <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

    Heh... I wish I had some money... Any money...

    But yeah, batch ano on smaller parts would be cheaper overall. I had seen a site that was $12 per part + shipping (non-batch work). I'll see if I can dig it up for you guys then.


    EDIT-

    I'm pretty sure that this was the place, but the site is down for now.

    www.precisionpb.com

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •