Green Illuminated Switches

[Bananaz]

I have no idea about resistors or anything and I would like to know what ones to buy for this http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/DP...itch-P409.aspx and this http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/DP...itch-P429.aspx
It is gibberish to me, but English to some of you guys.
Any help is much appreciated. =]
I searched for a while but came up with no help.
It will probably help if I list all the electronics I am buying just so you know what I will be working with.
1. Petit Crouton Sound Module v1.6
2. DPDT Latching green illuminated switch
3. SPST Momentary green dot Illuminated switch.
4. Build Your Own Seoul P4 Electronics Kit
5. 2.1mm Power Jack
6. Premium Speaker
7. MHS speaker and battery holder (4 AAA)
8. MHS speaker mount V3 (For the AA pack that comes with the P4 just in case AAA pack I am getting is the wrong one for this build)
Thank you for the help.
Feel free to lock this if it is stupid.

[Vlad Doon]

Hi

For the green illuminated switch , try the resistor chart, here it is http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/wi...er/wiring.aspx . You put your battery conf, and bingo, the chart tells you the best resistor

[Bananaz]

Cool, thank you. =]
Do I wire the switches directly to the sound card and then wire the sound card so it all goes through the one resistor that sits in the choke and to the LED, or will I need make each switch go to a resistor, then to the sound card
and to the one in the choke and then to the LED?
But how can I fit three 1.5ohm 5 watt resistors in the Saber?
Because they are the big blocky resistors.
Aren't they too big for three?
I am so lost..=/
I mean like I made my first one without sound or illuminated switches, and it was simple.
But now that there is a lot more work I am bugging out from brain pains.

[Zzan]

Cool, thank you. =]
Do I wire the switches directly to the sound card and then wire the sound card so it all goes through the one resistor that sits in the choke and to the LED, or will I need make each switch go to a resistor, then to the sound card
and to the one in the choke and then to the LED?
But how can I fit three 1.5ohm 5 watt resistors in the Saber?
Because they are the big blocky resistors.

Aren't they too big for three?
I am so lost..=/
I mean like I made my first one without sound or illuminated switches, and it was simple.
But now that there is a lot more work I am bugging out from brain pains.

I don't see anything in your build that would necessitate even one 5w resistor.

You should read the Petit Crouton Manual. It explains exactly how to wire your stuff up. Use the calculator linked above to find the CORRECT resistors for your switches, You will not need a resistor for your main LED (again read the stickies and the Petit Crouton manual.) For your switches the LED is wired independently of the switch, there are seperate connectors for the LED and others for the switch functionality. Again the schematic is posted in the Store as one of the pictures of the switch. Look there. There are also plenty of diagrams here on the site from people that have done the exact same wiring as you are attempting.

[Bananaz]

WOW.
My bad, I am pretty tired and I hit the wrong thing haha.
I have it all straight now. xD
What a waste of time I have caused.
Thanks for that mate.

[Zzan]

Also keep in mind for your resistor calculations that you aren't using your battery pack voltage to determine the resistor, you are using the output of the pad on the PC board that you are connecting the LED to, unless you are wiring direct to the battery pack.

You have many choices for the switch LED's with a PC board You can wire them as Accent 1 and 2. You can wire them to be on when the blade is on, you can wire them to be on when the board has power, your imagination and the board capabilites are the limit.

Also what are you using the 2.1mm jack for if you aren't using a Li-Ion pack?

[Bananaz]

Wuw, so many things to do haha.
But I got the jack because I wanted the option to choose between stuff if I changed my mind later on but guess what?
I forgot the bloody Batteries! Dx
I went and rushed in buying so I could buy before the Petit Crouton went out of stock and forgot a few bits and bobs.
But the resistors and batteries can be bought at a local electronics store right?
Now I am afraid that I messed up. =[
And since I live in Australia I will have to pay $35 postage for a few dollars worth of items.
Rush buying is my weakness..
The parts I bought cost more than my whole first saber did.
And that was including MHS parts.
This is just electronics. =P

[Zzan]

Yes, batteries and resistors can be bought locally.

Just don't ask us where to buy them You have to figure that out on your own as telling people where to buy things that Tim sells in the store attached to the forum is against the rules.

[Bananaz]

I'll keep my own stupidities to myself in that case, haha.
Thank you for the help. =]

Plus, is it really necessary to have a rechargeable pack anyway?
Because this one guy just uses four regular AAA's.
I was also under the impression that I needed a way to kill power and to do so I would need a jack and a kill plug, because everyone has them in their videos including the guy I mentioned above.
WHAT THE HELL AM I SO CONFUSED FOR!? D'x
I should just leave Lightsabers alone after this one, because I seem to have crashed and burned this time.

[Zzan]

It is not necessary to have a rechargable pack.

They are more convenient in a number of ways:
More juice in a smaller package(each Li-Ion cell is 3.7v, whereas each AA or AAA is 1.5v), which gives you longer run time and more available space for other things inside your hilt.
Buy them once then recharge them and use them again and again
fewer cells needed to meet voltage requirements of LED's
Packs are typically shrink wrapped and quick connected or directly wired so they don't fall out of the holder and break your circuit when dueling.

The kill key basically keeps a momentary switch (spring loaded contacts on the recharge port) open to break the circuit. If you are using a latching switch somehow connected to the circuit path of your battery pack then you are doing the same thing when you turn it off as would happen when a kill key is inserted into a recharge port that is wired correctly.

With a rechargable pack and a recharge port you don't have to continually open the saber to replace batteries. You just plug in the charger to the port and let it do its thing.