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Thread: LEDengin 5w and 10W info and wiring guide....for noobs

  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by FenderBender View Post
    Its tough because the vf of two blue or green dice are usually right at the threshold of a 7.4v pack. I have had sometimes where it worked great, and other times where it failed miserably and I had to re-wire them in parallel. I try to avoid the // wiring on PC as it only puts out 1.5A (750ma each die). That is horrible, but its not optimal. Still, it would be pretty bright.

    Try it in series first, if it doesn't look good, re-wire it for a parallel set-up. You can also, use the diagram above and wire the second pair for full power and get REALLY bright......but your runtime on a 14500 pack would suck......still.....mmmmmm
    hmmm yes suck it and see job then, iv been looking over my design and i may be able to shoe horn a pair of 14650s in there but nothing bigger . just out of interest how would two die's run in parallel compare to say an overdriven rebel or a 5w led engine?

  2. #22

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    hi!

    because the pc1.6 hopefully arrive soon, I thought of putting one in my next saber. and here is my question regarding the FoC:
    I thought of a cyan/aqua colored blade with a white flash, so I wanted to by a 10w RGBW LEDengine and wire the blue and green dice in series (linked to the highpower output of the pc) and wire the white dice via the PEX.
    Am I right with this thought or is there a better solution? And what would be the best way to change the balance between green and blue, I know it has to be done with resistors, but where do I attach them because fender bender mentioned to avoid parallel wiring.

    Ok that where quite some questions^^ Hopefully someone can help me.
    And thanks in advance!

    bato

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by Batosai View Post
    hi!

    because the pc1.6 hopefully arrive soon, I thought of putting one in my next saber. and here is my question regarding the FoC:
    I thought of a cyan/aqua colored blade with a white flash, so I wanted to by a 10w RGBW LEDengine and wire the blue and green dice in series (linked to the highpower output of the pc) and wire the white dice via the PEX.
    Am I right with this thought or is there a better solution? And what would be the best way to change the balance between green and blue, I know it has to be done with resistors, but where do I attach them because fender bender mentioned to avoid parallel wiring.
    Running the green and blue in series will be right around the 7.4V limit. If your wanting a aqua/cyan, I would suggest wiring them in series first and seeing how you like the color shade. As for the parallel wiring; This will allow you to finely tune your desired shade via the use of resistors. But, you will only be getting roughly 750mA to each die (B and G)...and even less to whichever die is resistored. I think Fender is also partially referring to the fact that LEDengin's are prone to color separation when wiring in parallel. This means that during flicker/blade effects, the green and blue might separate from each other a little. I'm still learning about these things as well and Fender/Vader's Vault has been a large help to me. In Fender I trust.

    Bottom line: Go with the series wiring first. This will give you the brightest and most even blade. If you don't like the shade, then experiment with parallel wiring.
    -Takanis-
    Simpi-Gon Sims (FX-Sabers Forums)

  4. #24

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    thanks a lot! and I can just power it with the output of the board?

    I nearly can't wait till all the parts I need are back in stock

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by Batosai View Post
    thanks a lot! and I can just power it with the output of the board?

    I nearly can't wait till all the parts I need are back in stock
    Yes. The LED (+) and (-) will power the LED. If you haven't read the Petit Crouton manual, you should definitely download it and read it. It has TONS of info in it. It's available on the Petit Crouton product page in the store.
    -Takanis-
    Simpi-Gon Sims (FX-Sabers Forums)

  6. #26
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    Ok, the situation in which I say stay away from // wiring is when you're 'mixing' two dice of different VF, i.e. Red and Blue, Green and Red, Green and amber, Blue and Amber etc. When you're mixing two dice that have similar VF like Blue and Green for instance, they don't separate with the blade effects. For a Cyan on the PC, you'd be better off wiring them in // and using a resistor on the blue to dial in the shade of cyan that you want. Wiring the blue and green in series produces a BEAUTIFUL sky blue, but not cyan. Wire your FoC™ pair of dice in series. For Cyan/Sky blue I like to use the RGGB so I can run the G and B for the main and the R and G for the FoC for a nice whitish clash with orange tint.

    If you're new, please take the time we all consider just as precious as you and READ!

    GET LATHED!

    Official BMF and LORD OF THE STRINGS

  7. #27

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    oh, thanks fender!
    that sounds sweet, now I think I have every information I need for wiring up the next saber.

    Thanks a lot!!!!

  8. #28

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    My mistake. Sorry, Batosai.
    -Takanis-
    Simpi-Gon Sims (FX-Sabers Forums)

  9. #29
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    Don't sweat it man, it can get confusing with all the different configs and such. Even Deanna and I argue....I mean, discuss why certain things will/should/won't work

    If you're new, please take the time we all consider just as precious as you and READ!

    GET LATHED!

    Official BMF and LORD OF THE STRINGS

  10. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by FenderBender View Post
    Even Deanna and I argue....I mean, discuss why certain things will/should/won't work
    LOL, nice save!
    -Takanis-
    Simpi-Gon Sims (FX-Sabers Forums)

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