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Thread: LEDengin 5w and 10W info and wiring guide....for noobs

  1. #111

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    lol got it. So last question.. I swear ! With this particular set up.. what batt solution would you recomend ?? I was thinking a dual 18650 7.4v "stick" configuration. Will that be enough juice ? Or should I go for an 11.1v or more set up ?

    Thanks Fender !

  2. #112
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    An 18650 stick will 'work', but an 11.1v pack would be more appropriate. If you want runtime but can't squeeze 3 18650's in there (damn, that would be a lot), try 3 14650's, in a triangle shaped pack. They'll fit, give you decent runtime, and run the LEDs at max.

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  3. #113

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    Sounds amazing ! Your the biggest help Fender ! Thanks so much.

  4. #114

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    Could someone tell me if my thought process/math is correct? I’m looking at using a 7.4 volt battery back (2 14500’s 800mah) to drive a 10w RGBW (from the store) through a PC v2 with a PXT for FOC. The B and G will be wired together off the PC’s main LED pads in either series or parallel to achieve the “sky blue” color; I'm not trying to resistor to cyan.

    The white pad will be used for the FOC off the PXT. According to the spec sheet, the forward voltage for that pad @ 1000 mA is 3.5v, so R=(7.4-3.5)/1=3.9 ohm resistor, 3.9 watts? (the online calculator says a 4.7 ohm 4.7 watt resistor?). HOWEVER according to the PC2 manual, the 3.9 watts could be rounded down to 3 watts. ALSO HOWEVER “clash-flashed leds the wattage can be 1/4 of the recommended” so, uh, 3.9 ohm 1 watt? Which the Store doesn’t sell, so we’re back to 3.9 ohm 5 watt?

    I feel really stupid right now. And I’ll be seeing “red sauce on pasta” flashing in my dreams. Thanks for the help.

  5. #115

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    I think your math is right, amwolf; a 3.9 ohm 1 watt resistor should be perfect. You just might have to take a trip to Radio Shack or somewhere to get the resistor you need.
    Boring conversation anyway...

  6. #116

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    The wattage you calculate is a minimum required. You can always go larger and it won't affect anything other than the space taken up.

    The online calculator tends to be a bit on the conservative side. 3.9 ohm 5 watt is an acceptable resistor for FoC. If you had a 3.9 ohm 2 watt, it would work as well for FoC.

    I don't think I could drive to Radio Shack and pick up a single resistor for $0.66. If you're already placing an order, I'd go ahead and get the one here.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  7. #117

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    Thanks for the help!

  8. #118
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    It is a fraking honking resistor though. I would wire the white in series with the R and use a 2W 1Ohm resistor. Less room taken up, brighter FoC. Win.

    Red Sauce on Pasta is a way of life.....remember that.

    If you're new, please take the time we all consider just as precious as you and READ!

    GET LATHED!

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  9. #119

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    And thank you too, FenderBender! I've got a set of house plans on my desk with calculations and notes in the Foyer, so I could try and make sure I could figure out how you got that 2W 1 ohm... and I did. I feel slightly less stupid now.

  10. #120

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    Quote Originally Posted by FenderBender View Post
    It is a fraking honking resistor though. I would wire the white in series with the R and use a 2W 1Ohm resistor. Less room taken up, brighter FoC. Win.

    Red Sauce on Pasta is a way of life.....remember that.
    Yeah, you know, I'll never be able to see the 300 the same way ever again and it's your fault. You know this, right?
    The lightsaber hilt is capable of producing a blade of pure energy. The lightsaber hilt has proven to be completely safe. The saber blade however has not. Do not touch the operational end of the saber blade. Do not look directly at the operational end of the saber blade. Do not immerse the saber blade into your flesh, not even partially.

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