its on he first page of this guide man and he explains it and then there is a link on how to wire it up
its on he first page of this guide man and he explains it and then there is a link on how to wire it up
"The force is everywhere, it binds us togeather"
The pictures in the 1st post are of Series Wiring with FOC... There is a place holder for the Full Powah ! pic and the link to erv's site for the Direct drive... It has an LED thats not a LED Engine and I dont understand where in that pic the wires are going to on the LED anyway. There not even touching the pads and it also says "with no current regulation" Does that even matter? If it does then what else needs to be done ??? This is why Im looking for an actual picture of how the actual wires are wired to the LED and on into the power extender and all of that. JGJ Helped out alot with the Parallel wiring pic... Thats what Im looking for for Full Powah ! Sorry to bother but some of us are visiual learners. Also .. Im wanting to do this for a stunt project anywho. All there will be is a Rechargeable battery solution, Illuminated AV switch and a 10Watt WWWW running Full Powah ! for the main LED. Thanks
Sorry to double post... I just saw this -
For an uber bright red stunt, I'd recommend two drivers/pucks at a minimum of 1A per pair, 1.5A TCSS driver would be much brighter. So you're main switch would come between the battery pack and the two pucks/drivers that are in parallel. Each puck/driver would go to a series pair of dice. Wear shades. That's about 560 lumens of red.
It says in this quote a TCSS Driver / Puck.... What dirver ???? and for a 10watt WWWW what puck would I want to use and lol ( sigh ) sorry for so many qustions.. Is there a picture example or diagram for this ??? This is actually what I was looking for. Thanks !
The pucks are drivers. The Petit Crouton is both LED driver & sound board. There's also a few other drivers. Look in hilt electronics.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Hi...onics-C17.aspx
The lightsaber hilt is capable of producing a blade of pure energy. The lightsaber hilt has proven to be completely safe. The saber blade however has not. Do not touch the operational end of the saber blade. Do not look directly at the operational end of the saber blade. Do not immerse the saber blade into your flesh, not even partially.
I checked these out..... So for a Stunt running a 10watt WWWW... Could I use a Constant Current Driver set to 1.5a for 1 set of series wired dice & Another Constant Current Driver set to 1.5a for the other 2 Dice in series AND then wire those in parallel ???? If this is possible... Could some one point me in the right direction of a diagram to wire this properly ??? The part Im not sure on is how to wire the 2 sets of series dice in parallel.... Thanks !The pucks are drivers. The Petit Crouton is both LED driver & sound board. There's also a few other drivers. Look in hilt electronics.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Hi...onics-C17.aspx
My first post has a pic of a LEDengin RRRR in Seriallel™ This is a series wired pair in parallel with another series pair. For a WWWW, your voltage requirements are going to be high, probably right at the pack voltage. I wouldn't do it this way unless you're using 18650s. It 'should' work with that set up, but keep in mind that each white die is probably going to want close to 3.8V or better. So yes, if you're doing it that way, you'd need two drivers, one for each pair. I did an amber stunt a few years ago using a 10W at Full Powah™. I bought a series configured star (they're out there), where all 4 dice were already wired in series. I had a 14.8V Li-Ion pack and ran it on a 1A buck puck. Not exactly 'pushing' the LED, but it was pretty darn bright.
If you're new, please take the time we all consider just as precious as you and READ!
GET LATHED!
Official BMF and LORD OF THE STRINGS
I looked at the picture and I see where you have two sets of Series dice wired up... 1 set with a red + wire and black - wire & 2nd set same... I dont see how you connected them in parallel as the picture is only focused on the LED itself and not the full wiring set up... Did I miss something ???
Last edited by StickStickly; 04-30-2012 at 08:30 PM.
Ok...so parallel would then be just running both pairs from the same power supply....i.e. Both positives and both negatives going to the same battery pack, even if each pair is being run with a puck. The pairs are in parallel.
If you're new, please take the time we all consider just as precious as you and READ!
GET LATHED!
Official BMF and LORD OF THE STRINGS
Got it ! Thanks Fender This will really help. Once this project comes to life it will look something like that New MKVI IK you just made with The WWWW Full Powah ! Awesome stuff !
EDIT: I suppose the only question left would be.... With this particular set up... Do you calculate resistors the same ie.. 1 set of series = resitor X & 2nd set of series = resitor X ??? Each set of Series dice would need there own appropriate resistor based on the added Vf of the combine dice correct ? And In what order does everything line up?
Battery pack - Recharge port - Switch(AV lit ) - Resistor(s) - Constant Current Driver x 2 - LED ???? Is this correct ?
Thanks again !
Last edited by StickStickly; 04-30-2012 at 09:34 PM.
Uh...if you're using the drivers, you don't need the resistors...that's sort of the point of having the drivers. The only resistor you'll need is for the AV switch's LED, and that will depend on what your battery source ends up being and where in the chain you want to put the switch LED at.
If you're new, please take the time we all consider just as precious as you and READ!
GET LATHED!
Official BMF and LORD OF THE STRINGS
Bookmarks