LEDengin 5w and 10W info and wiring guide....for noobs

[LAN-ED-TUL]

how bout a all red enginled to a US2 soundboard? how, if possible, would it wire up?

[havoc64]

Ok, the situation in which I say stay away from // wiring is when you're 'mixing' two dice of different VF, i.e. Red and Blue, Green and Red, Green and amber, Blue and Amber etc. When you're mixing two dice that have similar VF like Blue and Green for instance, they don't separate with the blade effects. For a Cyan on the PC, you'd be better off wiring them in // and using a resistor on the blue to dial in the shade of cyan that you want. Wiring the blue and green in series produces a BEAUTIFUL sky blue, but not cyan. Wire your FoC™ pair of dice in series. For Cyan/Sky blue I like to use the RGGB so I can run the G and B for the main and the R and G for the FoC for a nice whitish clash with orange tint.

Hey Fenderbender,

When you wire the RGGB that way, what batteries are you using? I want the same color scheme and I was lucky enough to get one of the latest Crystal Focus boards. I really dig your Narada Blade colors of a Cyan bin 1 blade with the orangish FOC, I saw it on another blade in the gallery. Too Cool.

Thanks

[FenderBender]

In 90% of my builds I use 14500s. In most of my/customer's designs, those are the cells that fit....*shrugs*

Run time isn't so hot (20-40min depending on set up), but most people don't use them for more than that on a charge unless you're a trooper or a regular CON'er. Then, you'd have some decisions to make regarding space and runtime vs. design.

[LAN-ED-TUL]

still needing to know how a all red engineled wires to a UltraSound one or two soundboard. i mainly need to know for a US2, its in my Vader heiland synchronar flash handle saber. i have a lux 3 red/orange in there now, and if it ever goes out, i need to know how one of these leds wire up to it.

[Dark Ruyn]

Hi FenderBender, i will make my first saber with the Power Xtender and i want to use the red or deep red LEDengin; you said you have post info on the differences between red and deep red have you do that ? i don't find it on the forums

[havoc64]

Hey guys, I am about to order all the parts to make my saber and I have one last question about the LEDEngin Die. I want a blue saber with an angry orange FOC. Couldn't I user a RGGB and wire the blue by it self for the main blade and then and RG for the Flash on Clash?

Thanks for the input..

[Silver Serpent]

You can wire it that way, but remember that the flash color will also blend with the blade color. You'll end up with R, G, and B all illuminated during the flash.

[FenderBender]

Yes, it will be mostly white with a little bit of an orange tint. For brightness, I would wire the B and G together for a Skyblue, and then use the R and G for flash. Brighter blade, nice clash=win.

[havoc64]

Yes, it will be mostly white with a little bit of an orange tint. For brightness, I would wire the B and G together for a Skyblue, and then use the R and G for flash. Brighter blade, nice clash=win.

Thanks fender, I will follow your suggestion. I was going to have you make my saber, but figured I would give it a shot first...for the experience...if nothing else to hear my wife complain about another hobby...LOL

[Wong Yoon Wei]

Just want to double check my calculations. So I got a CF from a recent run and wants to do a FoC set-up with a LedEngin RGGB.

I plan to run GG in parallel at 2A and will be using the Red for a yellow FoC. What I want to know is what current should I run the Red at? 1500 or 1000? If I were to run it at 1500 that means my resistor wattage should be 7.4-3=4.4 x 1.5 = 6.6W. Since Sunrider said it's ok to use 1/4 of the recommended wattage for FoC setup, am I right in assuming that a 1.5W to 2W resistor should be sufficient? Thanks