LEDengin 5w and 10W info and wiring guide....for noobs

[Kevin Starwaster]

The LedEngin was a SOB to solder for me. Heat the bottom of the star with the iron a little like most people have said, this helps. I had one joint that took me forever to stick. In the end, i scored the tab lightly with a razor blade a little to try and get something for the solder to hold to. Lightly I said. And when I finally did get it done, i didn't mess with it anymore. But also, the only soldering I've ever done in my life are on the few sabers I've made, and most of those were P4's with econo boards which is easy. I'm not very good at it, just enough to get by.

I had trouble the first time around too and a few joints popped off. In my case I blame a cheap iron that I was afraid to really heat up. When I got a new Weller it went much smoother. (WESD51 with digital temperature readout)

[FenderBender]

I like to use this analogy when giving LEDengin soldering advice, you have to be a Marvel comics fan to understand it......

Soldering a LEDengin is a lot like using Adamantium, you got to get it hot, and keep it there, cause if you let it cool....you're screwed.

So, that said, I have EVERYTHING ready to go on the star already done. Wire leads stripped tinned and any jumpers tinned/shaped whatever. Then, I get the star warmed on the bottom and start tinning the pads. Once you get one pad to 'flow' DO THE REST OF THEM RIGHT AWAY! Then, IMMEDIATELY start applying your wire leads and/or jumpers. It will go so much easier this way. Then, once you're done, let it cool and test it. Done. Adamantium LED star, ready for action.

[TuxedoCartman]

That... is the most eerily appropriate advice I've heard for this aspect of saber fabrication. Thanks for that!

(Is it sad that I didn't feel like too much of a geek for building my own lightsaber, or commissioning a costume to go with it... but somehow, getting a comic book reference in the process was over the line for me? LOL... )

[cardcollector]

I like to use this analogy when giving LEDengin soldering advice, you have to be a Marvel comics fan to understand it......

Soldering a LEDengin is a lot like using Adamantium, you got to get it hot, and keep it there, cause if you let it cool....you're screwed.

So, that said, I have EVERYTHING ready to go on the star already done. Wire leads stripped tinned and any jumpers tinned/shaped whatever. Then, I get the star warmed on the bottom and start tinning the pads. Once you get one pad to 'flow' DO THE REST OF THEM RIGHT AWAY! Then, IMMEDIATELY start applying your wire leads and/or jumpers. It will go so much easier this way. Then, once you're done, let it cool and test it. Done. Adamantium LED star, ready for action.

This is so true.

The wolverine of LEDS...

[beggarsoutpost]

Let one sit on a candle/coffee cup warmer for about 20 mins the other day... then wired it up while it was still on the warmer... worked out pretty good...

[Jordandau]

I think I remember Sunrider saying he put his on a frying pan for a bit before soldering them to warm it up.

[TuxedoCartman]

I think I remember Sunrider saying he put his on a frying pan for a bit before soldering them to warm it up.

So Buttered Toast isn't a soundboard, but rather a technique for soldering LED's?! Man, just when I thought I was starting to understand everything here, LOL...

(before anyone chimes in, it's a joke! I know what Buttered Toast is! )

[Kevin Starwaster]

So Buttered Toast isn't a soundboard, but rather a technique for soldering LED's?! Man, just when I thought I was starting to understand everything here, LOL...

(before anyone chimes in, it's a joke! I know what Buttered Toast is! )

And they laughed at me about the potato.... It could have worked!!!

[Cantankerous]

OK, I'm back with another question about the multicolor (RGBW) star this time. Lets say I wanted to do a violet/purple while getting maximum brightness using just a buckpuck. I assume I would wire up only the RBW dice, leaving green off. Looking at the data sheet the W and B dice have the same Vf requirements, so i could wire them in series on 1 puck with a couple 3.7V LiIon cells. No prob. Im a little sketchy on how to wire the R die, since it Vf is lower than the B and W. Would I use a 2nd 1000mah puck with a single 3.7V LiIon cell to power the R, or would i just resistor it? If I resistor it would I be getting a full 1A to the die? I realize that without using a board I need 2 different power sources, and that the pair in series will drain their batteries faster than the single R die. Any help would be appreciated, as i cant afford a board.

Thanx

[Jordandau]

If you want a good purple I would skip the W for now. Wire the B and R parallel and resistor the red to control just how purple or pink it is.