LEDengin 5w and 10W info and wiring guide....for noobs

[vvenom]

Thanks so very much for this i was in need of this bad

I have a question im bulding a Graflex with CF5.10 and a Yoda Chassis and a Purple MHS CF5.10

The Graflex i was hopping to get a cyan/Skyblue main blade and a White FOC im using Ledengine RGBW so what is the best way to wire this bad boy up?
From my understanding im going to wire the G/B in series and the W from the PEX? Some have said i need to run both the R/W in series aswell is this true.

For the purple im just running R/B in series and the G/B In series for the FOC


Any help on this would be great as i dont want to burn out the leds or my CF5

[Takanis]

Thanks so very much for this i was in need of this bad

I have a question im bulding a Graflex with CF5.10 and a Yoda Chassis and a Purple MHS CF5.10

The Graflex i was hopping to get a cyan/Skyblue main blade and a White FOC im using Ledengine RGBW so what is the best way to wire this bad boy up?
From my understanding im going to wire the G/B in series and the W from the PEX? Some have said i need to run both the R/W in series aswell is this true.

For the purple im just running R/B in series and the G/B In series for the FOC


Any help on this would be great as i dont want to burn out the leds or my CF5

Alright Fender; *cracks knuckles*. Let me try this again:

Vvenom: For your Graflex, I would do the B and G in series for the main blade. This should yield a nice sky-blue. If you wire the W for the FoC™, it will probably be closer that the FoC™ color that you want (white). If you wire the R and W for the FoC™ , it will probably add a purplish-pinkish look to the FoC™. If it were me, I would just wire the W for FoC™ and add a resistor of the appropriate value in order to overdrive the white a little.

For a purple with a CF and LEDengin, try the R and B in series to avoid color separation that tends to happen with a parallel setup with dies of more significant Vf differences. (R and B in this case). The G and B in series for FoC™ is fine.

[FenderBender]

With the CF5, you'd be better off wiring the blue and green in parallel and running the CF at 93 on the LED config. For the FoC, leave the red out and just use the white die.

Your purple set up is correct. Except for the FoC. If you use R and B for the main, you'd have a G and ......something for the other. Like Amber (RGBA), G (RGGB), or W (RGBW.

[Takanis]

.......If you use R and B for the main, you'd have a G and ......something for the other. Like Amber (RGBA), G (RGGB), or W (RGBW.

Wow. This is an inexcusable mistake on my part. *goes to get more coffee*

[FenderBender]

Bring me some while you're at it....Deanna left early and probably won't bring me any on her way home.....

[Takanis]

Bring me some while you're at it....Deanna left early and probably won't bring me any on her way home.....

I'll see what I can do. Looks like 16 hour drive....see you then.

[vvenom]

Thanks so very much guys thats so much help

in regards to the resistor to overdrive the white got any ideas what i should use as im not used to resistors that much other than what i used on my PC 1.5 for the switches led

[Sunrider]

For resistors used for whatever, plug your numbers into this calculator. http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

For clash-flashed leds the wattage can be 1/4 of the recommended.

[LAN-ED-TUL]

ok these leds are new to me just now heard of them as i havent been on here in a bit, since i do jedi and a darth vader, most of my colors used for my sabers so far i built with l3 and l5 leds were RED, BLUE or GREEN, strate up. these 10 watt 4 die leds, sounds awesome, but i know nothing bout them on how i would wire say, a all red, or green, or blue one up. can these be used with a puck driver sold here? i done lots of sabers using the old 700 parralled up for 1400 and the 1000 mah pucks from here. will either of these pucks work at all on these new 10 watters? and if a solid color like i would want is used how much battery are we talkin bout i would have to try to cram in the hilts? sorry for all the newbie type questions here, but since l3 and l5 lux's are gone bye bye im not left with many led choices, which sucks. i really liked the L5 greens which i used for my jedi saber, and with the old US 1 and 2 boards in my obi-wan MHS and my real heiland Vader saber, i used the L3's cuz board run them fine. but i also like just a no sound saber too, as long as its uber bright. any ideas or advice here i really appreciate, thanks.

[FenderBender]

Well, there are a myriad of ways to wire them up depending on the room you have in the hilt and how much battery you want to have in the hilt. If it's a stunt there is usually pretty good room for both. The easiest way to get them powered is to run two dice in series, in parallel with another two dice. This works awesome for red, amber and some mixed colors. Sometimes, unless you have an 11.1V pack, the series pairs don't work so hot for blues and greens as they have higher voltage requirements.

For an uber bright red stunt, I'd recommend two drivers/pucks at a minimum of 1A per pair, 1.5A TCSS driver would be much brighter. So you're main switch would come between the battery pack and the two pucks/drivers that are in parallel. Each puck/driver would go to a series pair of dice. Wear shades. That's about 560 lumens of red.