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Thread: LEDengin 5w and 10W info and wiring guide....for noobs

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    Ok, the situation in which I say stay away from // wiring is when you're 'mixing' two dice of different VF, i.e. Red and Blue, Green and Red, Green and amber, Blue and Amber etc. When you're mixing two dice that have similar VF like Blue and Green for instance, they don't separate with the blade effects. For a Cyan on the PC, you'd be better off wiring them in // and using a resistor on the blue to dial in the shade of cyan that you want. Wiring the blue and green in series produces a BEAUTIFUL sky blue, but not cyan. Wire your FoC™ pair of dice in series. For Cyan/Sky blue I like to use the RGGB so I can run the G and B for the main and the R and G for the FoC for a nice whitish clash with orange tint.

    If you're new, please take the time we all consider just as precious as you and READ!

    GET LATHED!

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    oh, thanks fender!
    that sounds sweet, now I think I have every information I need for wiring up the next saber.

    Thanks a lot!!!!

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    My mistake. Sorry, Batosai.
    -Takanis-
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    Don't sweat it man, it can get confusing with all the different configs and such. Even Deanna and I argue....I mean, discuss why certain things will/should/won't work

    If you're new, please take the time we all consider just as precious as you and READ!

    GET LATHED!

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    Quote Originally Posted by FenderBender View Post
    Even Deanna and I argue....I mean, discuss why certain things will/should/won't work
    LOL, nice save!
    -Takanis-
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  6. #6

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    Thanks so very much for this i was in need of this bad

    I have a question im bulding a Graflex with CF5.10 and a Yoda Chassis and a Purple MHS CF5.10

    The Graflex i was hopping to get a cyan/Skyblue main blade and a White FOC im using Ledengine RGBW so what is the best way to wire this bad boy up?
    From my understanding im going to wire the G/B in series and the W from the PEX? Some have said i need to run both the R/W in series aswell is this true.

    For the purple im just running R/B in series and the G/B In series for the FOC


    Any help on this would be great as i dont want to burn out the leds or my CF5

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by vvenom View Post
    Thanks so very much for this i was in need of this bad

    I have a question im bulding a Graflex with CF5.10 and a Yoda Chassis and a Purple MHS CF5.10

    The Graflex i was hopping to get a cyan/Skyblue main blade and a White FOC im using Ledengine RGBW so what is the best way to wire this bad boy up?
    From my understanding im going to wire the G/B in series and the W from the PEX? Some have said i need to run both the R/W in series aswell is this true.

    For the purple im just running R/B in series and the G/B In series for the FOC


    Any help on this would be great as i dont want to burn out the leds or my CF5
    Alright Fender; *cracks knuckles*. Let me try this again:

    Vvenom: For your Graflex, I would do the B and G in series for the main blade. This should yield a nice sky-blue. If you wire the W for the FoC™, it will probably be closer that the FoC™ color that you want (white). If you wire the R and W for the FoC™ , it will probably add a purplish-pinkish look to the FoC™. If it were me, I would just wire the W for FoC™ and add a resistor of the appropriate value in order to overdrive the white a little.

    For a purple with a CF and LEDengin, try the R and B in series to avoid color separation that tends to happen with a parallel setup with dies of more significant Vf differences. (R and B in this case). The G and B in series for FoC™ is fine.
    -Takanis-
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    With the CF5, you'd be better off wiring the blue and green in parallel and running the CF at 93 on the LED config. For the FoC, leave the red out and just use the white die.

    Your purple set up is correct. Except for the FoC. If you use R and B for the main, you'd have a G and ......something for the other. Like Amber (RGBA), G (RGGB), or W (RGBW.

    If you're new, please take the time we all consider just as precious as you and READ!

    GET LATHED!

    Official BMF and LORD OF THE STRINGS

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by FenderBender View Post
    Ok, the situation in which I say stay away from // wiring is when you're 'mixing' two dice of different VF, i.e. Red and Blue, Green and Red, Green and amber, Blue and Amber etc. When you're mixing two dice that have similar VF like Blue and Green for instance, they don't separate with the blade effects. For a Cyan on the PC, you'd be better off wiring them in // and using a resistor on the blue to dial in the shade of cyan that you want. Wiring the blue and green in series produces a BEAUTIFUL sky blue, but not cyan. Wire your FoC™ pair of dice in series. For Cyan/Sky blue I like to use the RGGB so I can run the G and B for the main and the R and G for the FoC for a nice whitish clash with orange tint.
    Hey Fenderbender,

    When you wire the RGGB that way, what batteries are you using? I want the same color scheme and I was lucky enough to get one of the latest Crystal Focus boards. I really dig your Narada Blade colors of a Cyan bin 1 blade with the orangish FOC, I saw it on another blade in the gallery. Too Cool.

    Thanks

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    In 90% of my builds I use 14500s. In most of my/customer's designs, those are the cells that fit....*shrugs*

    Run time isn't so hot (20-40min depending on set up), but most people don't use them for more than that on a charge unless you're a trooper or a regular CON'er. Then, you'd have some decisions to make regarding space and runtime vs. design.

    If you're new, please take the time we all consider just as precious as you and READ!

    GET LATHED!

    Official BMF and LORD OF THE STRINGS

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