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Thread: Your Opinion on the Petit.

  1. #11

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    I own both a cf and pc and to be honest im just as pleased with both . i would only wait for cf again if i wer to build a really complicated saber where the extra blinkys, foc and greater number of sound effects would be of more use. If you buy a pc you wont be disappointed

  2. #12

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    I've used Master Replica, Hasbro Econo, Ultrasound, and CF and I can say for sure the PC is the next best thing to CF and the best board for your money. If you install and configure it to optimize it's features you'll be more then content. Clash and swing sensors are really responsive. When dueling I might miss 1 out of 20 clashes and I barely need to contact the blades. The swing sensors are acceptable, and out perform Master Replica and Hasbro for sure. Soem debate the swings sensors but I like them and most others seem to as well. The ability to adjust config files put PC up there just under CF though. If I had to choose between a CF and 2 PCs I might go with the PCs. Depends on your intended use and how much you want to invest really.

  3. #13

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    cant seem to get mine to work properly with madcow sound fonts. that being said though, i am a noob and the issues are probably my fault. im not too sure yet. the pc card seems ok though. i would like the sound to be a little louder but im not sure if its the card, the resonance capabilities of the hilt of the speaker itself, or perhaps even a combination of all three. until i can find and get a cf board its pc for me.
    MAY THE FORCE SERVE YOU WELL.

  4. #14

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    PC is great!.. dont sell it short!.. its like a slimmed down version of the CF.. (less robust features..and no FoC)

    anyways..

    Lets start form the beginning..

    HOW are you loading these new fonts to the card?

    Are you using the same SD card? or a new one? (ie: you still have stock PC sound card..but using a new/different one for MC's font?)

    Does the old/original SD card work fine if you put it back in?

    Did you FORMAT the SD card before changing any fonts?

    Are you copying whole folder/bank over or directories at a time?

    Are you editing 'real time' anything ON the SD card? (ie: not moving to desktop..editing then moving to SD card.. editing directly with file on SD card?)

  5. #15

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    I had no trouble with Madcow's fonts although I did find they might be not quite as loud as those made for PC. Especially Shatterpoint since it's made to have a low volume hum and louder swing/clash. I am happy with Hero and Korriban though. Could it be your resonating chamber/speaker orientation? It can make a HUGE difference. Also make sure the volume is up to max on the SD card config files. 4 I believe. PC aren't as loud as CF that's for sure but I find the volume acceptable when you take all factors into consideration.
    Last edited by Crystal Chambers; 10-20-2011 at 06:07 PM.

  6. #16
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    Well, you guys summed it up pretty well and as most already know, my opinion is kinda slanted, lol. As far as MAdcow's fonts...I use them on most of my builds and they work perfectly. You just need to follow xl97's checklist and you wil l figure it out
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:1. LDM's Basic Saber-build Step-by-Step Tutorial 1A. Maul's Saber Dictionary 1B. THREAD INDEX 1C. Econo Sound Diagrams
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  7. #17

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    So far all the questions have been about sound quality, detection sensitivity, and general features of the card's hardware and software. What I want to know is how durable it is. The one reason I wanted an Obsidian XT over the other available boards was the fact that it was encased in black epoxy, to protect its components from impact and moisture. I need to know that my $125 soundboard will withstand jarring impact from heavy contact parries and strikes.

    I know the PC was designed to be a lightsaber board for lightsaber fanatics, but I don't want to just assume. It seems to me they would have made it as durable as possible, knowing that we would want to duel with them, but as I said, I don't know so I ask.

    What would the likelihood be that one could mock up a DIY epoxy encased PC? As long as the material is non-conductive I can't see as there'd be a problem with it. I know I'm hunting rabbits with a rocket launcher, but I like my meats pre-processed.

  8. #18

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    The simple truth is that the PC is more shock resistant than the potted soundboard you referenced because it has all low profile parts. It does not have a giant capacitor hanging off of it. There are many ways to install one so that it can stand up to rough playing around. I prefer a layer of tape for insulation rather than potting for many reasons. Look around for examples of good installation practice. That is how to prevent malfunction.

  9. #19

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    The PC is definitely durable. The individual components aren't heavy enough to put any considerable strain on their solder joints, and the solder joints themselves are solid metal. If heavy dueling could break electronic boards then the CF (big brother to the PC) wouldn't have been developed more than 5 years ago

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  10. #20

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    Thanks for the responses. This is basically what I imagined it would be, but I had to be sure. I'll let my plans percolate in the back of my brain for a few days. Maybe, by the time I get paid again, TCSS will have the parts I want in stock.

    This question is sort of off-topic, but, as it is related to the soundboard (even if indirectly), I put it here: Let us assume standard setup of the 7.4v Li-Ion Trustfires and an LED Engin 10W RGBW. Would it be possible to wire the R, G, and B to the LED Main (independent switches for each color, or 8-position selection switch, no flicker, wired for FoC through the PC) and wire the W through the TCSS Constant Current Driver, fed directly from the battery pack, for an independant blade flicker configured to the same FoC parameters as the PC diodes?

    If the setup is possible, I see it producing the effect of a steady blade color with a slight "warmth" of white light. If I'm imagining this right, the blade would seem to be more solid, more real, but still have that quality of unpredictable energy harnessed and focused into a cutting edge.

    My reason for wiring the white diode separately, through the CC Driver, is due to the fact that the Petit Crouton seems to have only one outlet for flicker and one for Flash on Clash. This way I could achieve all seven blade color configurations, add the "warmth" I was talking about, and still not sacrifice FoC.

    Can it be done?

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