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Thread: Your Opinion on the Petit.

  1. #21
    Jedi Padawan Ronan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skottsaber View Post
    The PC is definitely durable. The individual components aren't heavy enough to put any considerable strain on their solder joints, and the solder joints themselves are solid metal. If heavy dueling could break electronic boards then the CF (big brother to the PC) wouldn't have been developed more than 5 years ago
    I wouldn't say that to the people that easily broke their solder pads!
    Corbin_Das: If I got a tattoo below my waist, it'd say "Found someone you have I would say, hmmmm?"

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by BlessedWrath View Post
    Thanks for the responses. This is basically what I imagined it would be, but I had to be sure. I'll let my plans percolate in the back of my brain for a few days. Maybe, by the time I get paid again, TCSS will have the parts I want in stock.

    This question is sort of off-topic, but, as it is related to the soundboard (even if indirectly), I put it here: Let us assume standard setup of the 7.4v Li-Ion Trustfires and an LED Engin 10W RGBW. Would it be possible to wire the R, G, and B to the LED Main (independent switches for each color, or 8-position selection switch, no flicker, wired for FoC through the PC) and wire the W through the TCSS Constant Current Driver, fed directly from the battery pack, for an independant blade flicker configured to the same FoC parameters as the PC diodes?

    If the setup is possible, I see it producing the effect of a steady blade color with a slight "warmth" of white light. If I'm imagining this right, the blade would seem to be more solid, more real, but still have that quality of unpredictable energy harnessed and focused into a cutting edge.

    My reason for wiring the white diode separately, through the CC Driver, is due to the fact that the Petit Crouton seems to have only one outlet for flicker and one for Flash on Clash. This way I could achieve all seven blade color configurations, add the "warmth" I was talking about, and still not sacrifice FoC.

    Can it be done?
    Sure, almost anything can be done. No one will do it for you though, so these out of the ordinary setups you must do yourself.


    Quote Originally Posted by Ronan View Post
    I wouldn't say that to the people that easily broke their solder pads!
    I would.

  3. #23
    Jedi Padawan Ronan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunrider View Post
    I would.
    Yes... but your a jerk... i'm not (well.. yes i am...)
    Corbin_Das: If I got a tattoo below my waist, it'd say "Found someone you have I would say, hmmmm?"

  4. #24

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    I thought about what I wrote and I'm not exactly sure I can accomplish what I thought I could. In order for the RGB to receive steady current (and FoC) and the W to flicker (and FoC), I would have to have a second FoC circuit wired to the clash sensor, right? I'm just not seeing it in my head.

    Anyway, far too advanced for a first build. I'm probably going to end up with a Dark Standard Initiate hilt and all TCSS internals. That would seem (to me) to be the fastest, cheapest, easiest way to get started.

  5. #25
    Jedi Padawan Ronan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlessedWrath View Post
    I thought about what I wrote and I'm not exactly sure I can accomplish what I thought I could. In order for the RGB to receive steady current (and FoC) and the W to flicker (and FoC), I would have to have a second FoC circuit wired to the clash sensor, right? I'm just not seeing it in my head.

    Anyway, far too advanced for a first build. I'm probably going to end up with a Dark Standard Initiate hilt and all TCSS internals. That would seem (to me) to be the fastest, cheapest, easiest way to get started.
    Get yourself a econo board or a MR/FX board. With the latter, you'll be quite happy
    Corbin_Das: If I got a tattoo below my waist, it'd say "Found someone you have I would say, hmmmm?"

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by BlessedWrath View Post
    I thought about what I wrote and I'm not exactly sure I can accomplish what I thought I could. In order for the RGB to receive steady current (and FoC) and the W to flicker (and FoC), I would have to have a second FoC circuit wired to the clash sensor, right? I'm just not seeing it in my head.

    Anyway, far too advanced for a first build. I'm probably going to end up with a Dark Standard Initiate hilt and all TCSS internals. That would seem (to me) to be the fastest, cheapest, easiest way to get started.
    Check out the new PC manual that has the wiring diagram for the FoC setup. You will need a power extender also to make it happen.

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  7. #27

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    Yes, I definitely have a Power Extender on order. I'm just really nervous about wiring. I've only made things that required tiny metal rings (maille) or hundreds of feet of nylon lace (whips). In either case, if you mess up, you can usually go back and fix it. With these lightsabers, once you screw it up, you're essentially out of luck.

    The standard setups are readily available in several places, so I'm studying those first. I won't do anything weird until I've got some experience. I've read up on wiring half the dice for the blade and half for FoC. That's the setup I'm choosing. I've got ten JSTs coming with my order, so it shouldn't be a problem to link everything up in an easily removable format. I've also read up on the PC manual (pretty much daily) to make sure I haven't missed anything.

    Once the components get here, I'm rereading everything from the top down. A friend of mine has some experience with soldering and electronics, so I'll be enlisting his aid. I'm pretty excited about having the chance to try this board, even if it's a little intimidating. As they say, nothing worth having is easy.
    Last edited by Weaver; 12-24-2011 at 07:41 AM.

  8. #28

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    its only intimidating because its 'new' to you. once you keep reading and reading.. those terms and ideas will 'click' and make sense...
    and you'll feel more comfortable in this aspect of the hobby.

  9. #29

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    I'm actually discovering that. Making whips was intimidating, as well, at first. Once I hit my tenth design version I was pretty much home free. It was a lot of studying in that first year, trying and failing, trying again, etc, etc. I am confident that, once I know what I'm doing, I can get one of these beautiful works of art up and running. I just have to get there.

    My order is here, but I'm still waiting on the proper tools and equipment. I will not allow myself to jack up my gear by using substandard equipment, just because I'm excited about the end result. Patience is key. I should have my batteries and charger by the 29th. I can test it then.

  10. #30
    Board Lurker Shylah's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlessedWrath View Post
    ...
    This question is sort of off-topic, but, as it is related to the soundboard (even if indirectly), I put it here: Let us assume standard setup of the 7.4v Li-Ion Trustfires and an LED Engin 10W RGBW. Would it be possible to wire the R, G, and B to the LED Main (independent switches for each color, or 8-position selection switch, no flicker, wired for FoC through the PC) and wire the W through the TCSS Constant Current Driver, fed directly from the battery pack, for an independant blade flicker configured to the same FoC parameters as the PC diodes?
    ...
    You know, I think maybe your easiest solution might be to add a small amount of the complementary color to the original to achieve your warmth effect. So, for example, if you have a blue blade, add a tiny amount of yellow to it. If red, then a little green, etc. This is actually how LED Engin makes their W source in the first place (look at figure 6 of page 9 of http://www.ledengin.com/files/produc...LZ4-00MD00.pdf: white is made by mixing broadband blue and yellow). Then you could wire your W directly from the FoC output without worrying about dividers, more supplies, etc.
    Last edited by Shylah; 12-27-2011 at 07:25 AM.

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