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Thread: BuckPuck or constant current led driver

  1. #1

    Default BuckPuck or constant current led driver

    So TCSS is out of the 4 wire BuckPucks. I was looking for an alternative when i started finding constant current led drivers. Now I was wondering if they're the same thing. From reading about them they seem like the same thing, only not in an enclosure. So I decided to post some links to a few and ask you what you think.

    {removed links to not be a {insert self deprecating remark here} to the best saber shop TCSS. Sorry I thought they were different enough to post.}


    Just want to know if you guys think something like that will work in place of a BuckPuck.
    Also if you think this is a dumb question please remember there was a time when you did not know an answer to something.
    I have come to that point and am raising my hand to ask the teacher, Don't tear me up in front of the class.

    Also post edited because i put down 14V instead of the 12 volt my led takes. Spent to much time reading this morning and not thinking before i posted.
    Jumped the gun posted and ran off to work.
    Last edited by Nick Knight; 09-14-2011 at 12:46 PM. Reason: Dumb mistake
    "A correction added to one’s store of knowledge. It was a thing to be grateful for, not something to take offense at. "
    "Choose what is right, not what is easy"

  2. #2

    Default

    Firstly, it is forum policy not to link to webpages where you can buy items that TCSS sells, as this forum is attached to the store. You need to remove them.

    Also, both varieties of the 6 wire pucks are in stock, all you have to do is ignore the other two wires, cut them off or tie them into a pretty bow.
    Now, I'm not sure why you want to be driving a 10W LED with a buckpuck, unless you plan on using multiple pucks for each die, but suffice to say using one will not have enough power by itself.

    Now those drivers you linked to, after glancing over them both I don't know if either will work. One of them is rated for 12V input (not very useful for a saber application), with only 950mA and the other has a minimum 3A output, which will blow your LED.
    TCSS carries an adjustable driver perfectly suited for sabers - http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ad...iver-P497.aspx which I'm sure some people can recommend.

    As for powering a 10W with a PC, firstly DON'T use a 14v pack. The max a PC can take is 11v. A rather... untalented sabersmith tried using a voltage regulator to step down the voltage, and it made the PC go haywire. You don't need 14v to power a 10W LED. As far as PC goes, you can power two dies at average potential, but that is it, so I would recommend a 5W or less LED on the PC. You need that extra 500mA to properly use a 10W.

    My advice to you is to use a 6 wire puck or the adjustable driver from TCSS. Hope this helps some

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  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Knight View Post
    So TCSS is out of the 4 wire BuckPucks. I was looking for an alternative when i started finding constant current led drivers. Now I was wondering if they're the same thing. From reading about them they seem like the same thing, only not in an enclosure. So I decided to post some links to a few and ask you what you think.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/10W-high-Pow...item4aa3019161

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-Power-Dr...item336bd487aa


    So what do you think? Plan on wiring up a 10 watt led in the end with a PC. Yeah, I know a PC cant take that much power. But I know there are ways around that problem because I have seen vids of PC with 14 volt power packs. I just need to look around more and find the wiring schematic.

    Just want to know if you guys think this will work in place of a BuckPuck.
    Also if you think this is a dumb question please remember there was a time when you did not know an answer to something.
    I have come to that point and am raising my hand to ask the teacher, Don't tear me up in front of the class.
    Where have you seen PCs running at 14v? Those drivers you linked to are not suited to sabers btw.

  4. #4

    Default Thank you

    Skottsaber- thank you for your advice.
    My LED specks are= Lens Color : Water Clear, Emitted Color : Green Intensity, Typ.: 600Lm, Forward Voltage : 9-12V Forward Current : 1000mA
    Its all one die so i cant split them up. Got them very very cheep so no loss if i cant use them. If nothing They will go in to a stunted saber.

    I have 3, 5 watt's nice LED from TCSS. There great was just looking to try something brighter on my next saber.


    Sunrider- Your right they were 7.4 and im sorry for my ignorance. I seen other sabers this morning running 14volt along with others running PC. My mind smashed everything together into its own retelling of what i had seen. When your reading for hours on end. Then watched about 30 saber films, with around 5 cups of coffee. The mind starts to mix things around.
    "A correction added to one’s store of knowledge. It was a thing to be grateful for, not something to take offense at. "
    "Choose what is right, not what is easy"

  5. #5

    Default

    Ahh, I was thinking of the more commonly used 4 die 10W LEDs.
    Now you posted your LED specs I would recommend using a buckpuck (4 or 6 wire, just don't use the extra 2 wires), and 3 Li-Ion cells in series for 11.1V.

    That would give you constant current and the efficiency of the Li-Ions will make it last. The next best solution for a battery would be to use 6 Alkaline batteries for 9V. It's about space and what you can fit in there if you aren't confident enough to do Li-Ions. Although if it is a stunt you might be able to fit them...

    Click here to learn all about me!
    The Shoutbox: The only place you can double post!
    Anybody who spells it Lightsabre is dyslexic
    "Yeah, if I had Skotts face I'd hit it too" ~ Fenderbender
    "You didn't buy a toy saber just to break it. You bought an economy sound card with a really complicated wrapping scheme." ~ Silver Serpent

  6. #6

    Default

    Ok, for a led with a vf of 12v you could do a 4 x li ion pack for 14.8v. You need at least 1 volt over vf for the buck puck to work properly. Or you could use a boost puck (uses less space) but these are more expensive and harder to find.

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