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Thread: CF with LEDENGIN 40w RGB?

  1. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by pointoforigin View Post
    For starters, four cells are required to bring the voltage up to 14.8V. 18650's are the most efficient capacity per size, meaning run times will be the best. They also output enough current for the application.

    Using 25500's would mean a full 20cm of hilt space would be taken up by batteries, with no chance of stacking electronics on the sides. This leaves 10cm for a soundboard, three pots, a fan, a heatsink, a bladeholder, two switches, 7 accent LED's, two power extenders, a kill switch and a recharge port. While I'm sure someone like LDM might be able to pull that off, I wouldn't. 18650's make sense.
    yeah that's what i though as i was looking at the difference and since everyone else is using the 18650... i was wondering if the tradeoff was even worth it but in our application the size is what is precious

  2. #32

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    For those interested, here's some basic layout shots of my 3D model, just to prove that the parts fit





    By my calculations, there could even be room for a crystal chamber.

    I'm not 100% on the pots pictured, they stick out too far for one. One thing I've found with 3D modelling, you can draw it any way you want. Actually building it like that takes a bit more effort. But it's a good planning tool.

    I'm using the MHS sleeve as part of the structure of the hilt, not just aesthetics. The normal MHS outer diameter is about the same as two 18650's side by side, which means they fit in the sleeve just fine.

  3. #33

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    What program are you using for that? SketchUp?

    I really...really love those Pots sticking out like that its not like anyone else.. .and the PLI going up in the slot of the shroud is awesome
    Last edited by Natesroom; 09-08-2011 at 03:49 PM.

  4. #34

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    Nice illustration. If you really want to try to use pots I think you need to check part sizes. Each one will need to handle 10w. I have never seen any near that small. And be prepared for a bit of work to get those batteries in there without weakening the body too much.

  5. #35

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    Yep, I use Sketchup.

    Would I still need 10w capable pots if I were using 6 wire buckpucks with the pots wired into the ref and ctrl?

  6. #36

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    Oh. Oops. Was that your plan? Small pots can be used with the drivers yes. I don't know what value though.

    Oh, and the heat sink would need some fins for the air to flow through.

  7. #37

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    Right, excellent. That should save some space. I'll look up the spec sheets for the buckpucks to find out the right pot to use.

    I was planning to mod the heatsink yes, in the spirit of what you've shown us in the past

  8. #38

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    I think for buckpucks you use attach your positive to ref and the pot's wiper to the ctrl.

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  9. #39

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    Thanks, Skott. The datasheet on the buckpucks says to use a 5k linear pot, and the current on it is 5mA so no worries there. A small 9mm pot will do the job nicely, and leave plenty of space in the hilt.



    Slightly messy diagram, but I think I got it right. I've drawn this up with completely separate anode and cathode on the LED, would it work with common anode or common cathode to reduce wiring? Or would the buckpucks disagree with that?

    I'm now wondering about wire - will 26 gauge wire carry all that current? I imagine not. Heavier gauge required?
    Last edited by pointoforigin; 09-09-2011 at 01:24 AM.

  10. #40

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    If your fan wants 12v then why is it after the voltage regulator?

    Click here to learn all about me!
    The Shoutbox: The only place you can double post!
    Anybody who spells it Lightsabre is dyslexic
    "Yeah, if I had Skotts face I'd hit it too" ~ Fenderbender
    "You didn't buy a toy saber just to break it. You bought an economy sound card with a really complicated wrapping scheme." ~ Silver Serpent

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