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Thread: Making My First Saber - Please Check Parts List

  1. #1

    Default Making My First Saber - Please Check Parts List

    I'm making my first saber and I would love for someone to go over my parts list to make sure its acceptable. Also, could you tell me the difference between all the different types of blades (show blade, battle blade and corbin blade).

    Screw on LED blade holder style 12 "new style"
    7" Fluted with guarded style switch hole
    MPS Pommel style 1
    MPS Insert style 7
    MPS Clip
    8-32 x 3/8" Set Screw
    LED "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD (32 inches)
    Seoul P4 (Blue)
    Novus polishing kit
    4AAA battery holder
    Premium Speaker
    SPST Momentary blue dot Illuminated switch.
    Luxeon Rebel Star (Royal Blue)
    Luxeon Rebel Lens Holder
    Luxeon Collimator Lens 8.7 deg viewing angle
    Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)
    A 2010 Economy Sound Board
    TIP42 Transistor

    Thank You

  2. #2


    A Heatsink is a must, as well as Thermal Tape to secure the LED. You also need a Resistor for the Main LED and Resistor for the Switch LED. And a Speaker Mount may help.

    If you're planning to use all 4 AAAs the you will also need a 5V voltage regulator as sound boards tend to fry with anything higher, still use the full 6v for the LEDs and speaker, Here are some very handy wiring diagrams

    another issue is that the AV Illuminated switch will not fit in a hole for a guarded switch, ask tim to do This instead of the guarded hole.

    To answer your question about the blades. There are two different kinds of blades, show and battle, whitch basically do whaat they say on the tin, show blades are lighter and for displaying your saber. Battle blades are heavier and can be dueled with, they can also be displayed but might not to as easy to wall mount.

    Both blade types come in two styles, TCSS and Corbin. TCSS is just a solid blade, while Corbin gives the illusion of a white 'core' to the blade, whitch is more canon.

    By the way me thinks you could have easily found this out via the mystical and all knowing search bar .

    I like the retro design though .

    Hang on Why do you have a rebel and a P4, surely it's one or the other?
    Last edited by Jay-Kento; 08-20-2011 at 04:25 PM.

  3. #3


    I have a heat sink included with my led holder. I have some thermal glue that I think I could use instead of the tape. Thank you for the resistor. I'll just glue my speaker to the battery holder.

    All those wiring diagrams say 6 volts will be fine for the board?

    Will this hilt work instead?

    In your opinion is a show blade strong enough to do some light occasional dueling/hitting things?

    I know this might sound lame but the search doesn't work for me? When I click search nothing happens (even in the advance search) so I've just been browsing and googleing things.


    Oh you caught another mistake.

    Thank You for All the help.

  4. #4


    Never Mind,
    After restarting my browser (chrome) the search is working!

  5. #5


    Quick question from a more mechanically inclined indivitual... I get circuit/electrical concepts, just not my strong suit: what are the gauges of wires used in these circuits? 26 Gauge, 18 Gauge? I'm looking at using Luxeon LEDs with illuminated AV switches and sound boards.


  6. #6


    Quote Originally Posted by jamilm9 View Post

    All those wiring diagrams say 6 volts will be fine for the board?

    Yeah you should be fine, I was thinking about 7.4v battery packs

    Will this hilt work instead?

    No, the hole is not a large enough diameter

    In your opinion is a show blade strong enough to do some light occasional dueling/hitting things?

    not really an expert on blades, but I'd play it safe and get a battle blade (just my opinion). if you're warried about cash then This plus This (plus a little bit of glue) should get similar results to a TCSS battle blade at almost half the price

    Also (i missed this earlier) you might want get a bit of Heatshrink, to insulate your solder points (electrical tape will do but heatshrink is best)
    For wire gauges the bigger the number, the thinner the wire and the less current it can handle (also the higher its resistance) This should be fine for most purposes (as far as i know)

  7. #7


    Unless you are a crazy harcore dueler, stick with the show blade. Despite the name, it is still very durable and quite impossible to break. If you can actually break a show blade, that means you are hitting at speeds and force that can cause serious injuries.

  8. #8


    Thank You for all the help. I will go with a show blade. I just have one more question. Since the switch I want is out of stock I want to use this.

    Now it says "Will work with box's 2-6 and the recessed AV switch hole service" in the description. Does that mean I must use both the service and the box or can I just use the service and no box? Thank You for taking the time to answer all my question.

  9. #9


    Just the recessed AV switch hole service and no box will be fine, if you really want a box then you have to get a different service to fit it.

    and oops on the blade thing, like i said, not an expert
    Last edited by Jay-Kento; 08-21-2011 at 04:43 PM.

  10. #10


    Ok thank you.

    Don't worry about it, we learns something new everyday.

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