Custom MHS (20w ultraviolet, 8w white) hilt lit saber

[Darth Magnus.]

Hi guys, just starting a thread on my first custom saber.
As the saber hilt isn't finished yet i got no photos to post. but i still want to run it past everyone so heres the plan.
For power I'm running 4x 3v 123a 2A lithium batteries. They are directly powering my 20w ultraviolet LED star and a .7A constant current driver. The constant current driver powers the additional 8x 1w white micro-smd LED's which are configured around the outside of the 20w UV. For fun I'm running a picaxe micro-controller to create a pulsing effect for the white LED's and with an additional clash sensor/switch I should be able to get a bright flash when the saber clashes.
Umm yeah the rest is simple for sound I've got an Obsidian sound board from Ultra Sabers (only board with 12v in) with a premium quality TCSS speaker.
Yeah so if I've missed anything let me know, If all goes to plan i will have pics up in a few weeks.

[Darth Magnus.]

Heres a rough idea

[bk_renesis]

UV LEDs are not a good idea.

[Skottsaber]

Yeah, general consensus around UV LEDs is that unless you want to wear sunscreen while you use your saber, exposure to that amount of Ultraviolet light isn't going to be very good for your health. Plus, by it's nature, it won't make for a very bright blade because you can't see the majority of it.

[Sunrider]

Yep UV is no good for eyes and skin. 3v or 3.6v 123 batteries are not good for sabers ether. Also you wont be able to fit that many leds under a lens or reflector.

[Darth Magnus.]

Hi guys, thanks for all the reply's.
The reason for the UV LED is that I'm hoping to find some sort of UV reactive film (already found UV 1" tube, but shipping was a killer) to give my saber some kind of glow. I know UV LED's aren't anywhere near as bright as the other colors, so thats why i went for a 20w and a 12v battery system to power it. I also have blue, red and green 20w LED's to interchange with it (depending on what side of the force I'm feeling). Basically i just wanted to do something different with the UV LED.
The 1w white LED's are 8x3x2mm, I mounted them around the outside of a blank LED star with the middle cut out to accommodate the 20w. Its easy to change that way, I just take it off then tighten it down on top of what ever 20w LED I want.
Whats wrong with using 3v batteries? I thought heaps of people use batteries like trustfire's, there 3.7v

[Sunrider]

So it won't use a optic? The 123 photo type batteries are not made to supply much current. The 3.7v li ions might work but 4 x 4.2v = 16.8v.

[Darth Magnus.]

Optic, as in optic style blade? If so then yes, it will just be a custom one with added UV film instead of 100% corbin.
With the batteries they say there rated for 2A out but if they don't produce enough current I've found some that boast 3A. Might just get some of them for fun.

[TimeRender]

I would skip the UV completely. It will never be as bright or as evenly illuminated as a traditional LED. I'd be happy to explain why in further detail if you wish. EriktheHack was planning something very similar and promised to provide pictures when he got it working. He was never heard from again...

Edit: And to answer the question you directed at Sunrider, no, not "optic" as in optic style blade. "Optic" blades were just what Ultra was calling his regular blade-film blades. We don't use that terminology here. The optic Sunrider refers to is the lens that focuses the light up the blade. It is pretty much mandatory if you want a bright, even blade. Yes, mandatory, even if you're using UV.

[Sunrider]

Yep you will need a lens or reflector to focus the light up the blade to get it to the far end. With a bunch of leds on a star you may run into problems getting a focuser to fit. For batteries I would look at 14650 Li Ions.